Loving Prague!

Prague Skyline

     We are nearing the end of the first chapter in this adventure.  What we have experienced so far is a love affair with Prague.  What a city.  Architecturally beautiful with few exceptions, clean beyond belief, a mass transit system that is efficient as it can be resulting in very little auto traffic, and people who seem warm despite the language difference.  Did I mention the beer?  You have heard the phrase “beer is cheaper than water”?  Well, here it is true.  And all kinds, from micro-brewed to bottles found, it seems, in every other store.  

     I can’t call the journey from Guatemala fun, but it wasn’t bad either.  We sprung for Economy Plus on the leg from Houston to Frankfurt and had no regrets about doing it.  The flight was about 10 hours and when one lands they are well into the next day, so be awake!!!  A bit of Benadryl did the trick and we both got in at least 6 hours.  The efficient Germans seemed to have missed the mark a bit at the Frankfurt airport as the walks were marathon size, the stairs did not move, and the bus ride to the tarmac was jammed.  By the time we made the short flight to Prague all that was forgotten.

     We are doing a lot of Airbnb’s on this trip and the first one is a total hit.  Not huge but really modern and comfortable.  And Well Located.  We can walk just about everywhere in the city and walk we have.  You have heard of the required 10,000 steps a day (which I honestly believe should be 5,000)?  Well, we have logged an average of about 15,500 since we got here.  If one divides the number of beers we have drank into that number, I would say we deserved every drop.   

Hoisting a Pivo (Beer)

     So far our days have included synagogues, castles, museums, a couple of incredible churches, and a bevy of bars.  All worth the time in a variety of ways.  The story of the Jews in Prague is a complex one.  The story spans a 2,000 year history and in many ways capsulizes their incredible journey.  

The Spanish Synagogue
Prague, Czech Republic

     Without doubt the occurrence of the Nazi invasion of 1938 was catastrophic and one synagogue has, in small print, several rooms where every wall displays the names of the individuals disappeared in the holocaust.  Though I am certainly not making a comparison, in theme it did remind me of the Catholic church I visited in a small Guatemalan Mayan village in the Ixil Triangle where the names of 1/3 of the villages population appear as a tribute to those disappeared.  Have we learned?  I certainly hope so.  

77,297 Names
Pinkas Synagogue
Prague, Czech Republic

     The museums we have visited have been fascinating for totally different reasons.  The Prague City Museum gives an absolute exhaustive look at the history of Prague going back to Cro-Magnon man.  It gives me such pause to once again come face to face with the reality of how young my home country is.  While life was being played out in so many complexities here in Prague, the American Indian was living with nature in the U.S.  

Manifesto Market
Prague, Czech Republic

     After enjoying a beer and some sweet potato fries at the newish “hip” Manifesto Market, we found our way to the Alphonse Mucha Museum.  Here is an artist that clearly loved women and brought such life to the feminine allure.  He established himself by doing posters for famous people and events including the actress Sarah Bernhardt.  This allowed him to become known and wealthy, thus releasing him to create what he really wanted in his later years (The Slav Epic).  Hey, as an artist one does what ever it takes to make it work.  

Works by Alphonse Mucha
Mucha Museum
Prague, Czech Republic

     
     We did escape to the country in order to visit the Karlstejn Castle.  Though the castle was certainly worth seeing I think the incredibly smooth train ride through the beautiful countryside was one of our favorite parts of the day.  First off one has to figure out how the hell to buy a ticket and what platform the train is leaving from.  That took about 45 minutes of frustration, wrong turns, and some anxiety.  The ultimate way to figure it out is to ask.  However, one has to ask a person who speaks English and knows the answer.  Pretty tough to tell whom that person is.   We eventually figured it out and off we went.  

Karlstejn Castle
Karlstejn, Czech Republic

     The castle was not spectacular, but it was the experience we were looking for at the time.  The views from the top turrets of the surrounding country were magnificent.  A small village nestled amount the hills of greenery.  And of course, as with most castles, it held the high ground. 

View from Karlstejn Castle
Karlstejn, Czech Republic

  The pride and joy of Prague is the Prague Castle, and I must say for good reason.  Included in its vast grounds is the St Vitus Cathedral, undoubtedly one of the most outstanding structures I have ever seen.  It was shocking to walk through an archway and be totally astounded by the overall power of the cathedral.  

St Vitus Cathedral
Prague Castle
Prague, Czech Republic

     Words fall short.  600 years in the making.  I have never been a deeply religious person, in fact as I look back in history I know religion has been the cause of literally hundreds (thousands?) of wars continuing right up to this day.  But when religion is at its strongest it can be a cradle of creation.  And I mean artistically.  Yes, many of the themes have religious overtones but the artists were clearly inspired, the church able and willing to pay, and the result is something for the ages.  What single effort goes on for 600 years?  That’s roughly 24 generations.  Astounding.  The Cathedral had treasures ranging from the crypt of Charles IV to Art Nouveau stained glass windows by Mucha.  Though many more sites delight at the Castle, Cynthia and I could go back to the cathedral and just spend the day being mesmerized by the wonder.

St Vitus Cathedral
Prague Castle
Prague, Czech Republic

   
     Of course as is always the case just as one feels comfortable, knows their way around, and could just settle in for a while it is time to move on.  Tomorrow we take a 3 hour bus ride to a small town in the Czech Republic.  We will treasure our time in Prague, both of us being surprised and elated by this wonderful city.  We would return in a heart beat.  

All photographs copyright by Cynthia Davis, 2018.  All rights reserved.