Cesky Krumlov

Streets of Cesky Krumlov
Czech Republic

     One walks along the narrow streets of Cesky Krumlov and it is not hard to imagine time tripping back to the 15th century.  The almost lane-size streets mean practically no cars.  The stone structure of the streets seem to be a reflection of their age.  The castle within view from many parts of the village has not changed, at least externally, since it was refurbished in the 16th century.   The castle actually dates from the 13th century.  

Cesky Krumlov Castle
Cesky Krumlov, Czech Republic

     
     The village, simply put, has extraordinary charm.  From the flowing Vltava river to the dominant terracotta roofs it is easy to see why it has been designated a UNESCO Word Heritage Site. There are tourists.  In fact I had to ask one particularly gregarious restaurant owner if there was a vital local community among the vast number of visitors.  He assured us there was. 

Terracotta Roofs and the Vltata River
Cesky Krumlov, Czech Republic

    
     Speaking of tourists, I have come to the point where I can embrace being one.  I always remember the the NYC adage.  “Don’t look up because they will know you are a tourist.”  So what?  By definition if one ventures outside their home territory they are a tourist.  Call it what you want (traveler, adventurer, visitor, globe trotter, tripper) you are still a tourist.  And be thankful you are one because venturing far from ones home can be one of the magical parts of life.   By definition if a place is beautiful, historical, different or “hip”, it is going to attract visitors.  That’s the law of the planet.  So if one would like to see those places then expect others.  The Asians are certainly getting out and about.  Fully 80% of the tourists in Cesky were Asian, the majority being Chinese.  Yes, there can be “too many tourists” but I am learning to see not the tourists but what I came to see in the first place!

  Oh yes, Cesky.  We stayed in a place above a “French Country” store. (Cynthia calls it shabby chic.)  The name of it was the “Never Ending Store” (they stole that from Dylan) and I can’t help but call it the “never ending locks”.  When the store is closed we had to go through no less than four locks to get into our apartment.  Cynthia has been the dedicated key person so she got it, but the first time was ridiculous.  

  Yes, in Cesky there is a castle and this one dominates for sure.  We took the tour and thoroughly enjoyed it.  So many interesting and beautiful things to look at.  We were also thrown quite the curve.  As we were wandering through a passage way there was a sign indicating an exhibit down in the catacombs of the castle.  What could that be about?  Down we went and were totally blown away by what we saw. 

The Czech-Krumlov Surreality
Exhibition of works by Miroslav Páral
Cesky Krumlov, Czech Republic

     There among the subterranean depths of the castle was the works of Miroslav Páral.  A true outsider this man.  His work was bizarre to say the least.  Erotic at times, a hint of humor, and all overlaid with a touch of the grotesque.  Combining his work with the setting was brilliant.  Hopefully Cynthia’s photos will give you some impression of what I write.  

Works by Miroslav Páral
Cesky Krumlov, Czech Republic

  Cynthia and I seem to be drawn to art galleries.  We didn’t only see the work of Páral but also Egon Schiele (1890-1918).  I must admit I had never heard of him but Cynthia remembered him from art school.  Klimt was his idol and mentor but he broke away with his own style, albeit again with a nod to the bizarre.  He apparently lived in Cesky for one year but was unceremoniously asked to leave as the town did not like his use of nude women models, some reportedly under age.  Nonetheless it is amazing what one can accomplish in such a short life.  

Drawing by Egon Schiele
Egon Schiele Gallery
Cesky Krumlov, Czech Republic     

    
     He and his wife died so young in the flu epidemic of 1918 that took some 50 million people.  Along with Schiele’s work there was an exhibition in his self-named gallery entitled “View of Women” which included the works of three women artists whose work was “compatible” with that of Schiele.  Knowing very little when we walked in we left several hours later totally enthralled.  

Exhibition of Works by artist "ToyBox"
Egon Schiele Gallary
Cesky Krumlov, Czech Republic

     Just wandering the streets of Cesky is what this town is about.  As we were winding up our day, strolling down some back street all by ourselves, the sound of music came wafting down the lane.  “Is that live music” I asked Cynthia?  We followed the sound and indeed it was.  A big band was set up on the main square playing their hearts out.  Everything from Miles Davis to Glen Miller.  As the audience got in the rhythm several of the “tourists” began to dance.  Everyone was in a good mood and the musical interlude couldn’t have been more welcome.

Big Band
Cesky Krumlov, Czech Republic

   
     We have now arrived in Vienna.   We came by shuttle and the first 2/3 was farms and forests.  The road was so narrow we had to pull over when another vehicle was approaching.  We passed through several small villages that gave us a good insight into rural Czech Republic.  Loved it.   
     Vienna will be a bit of a whirlwind as we are venturing out of our Eastern European focus and chose not to spend much time here.  As is often the case our landing was a bit rough but seems to be smoothing out already.  There is so much to see and appreciate in Vienna, but we won't experience it all.  Much of the city we will have to save for next time.  Budapest awaits and our next blog should emanate from the star of Hungary.      

Night Stroll
Cesky Krumlov, Czech Republic

All photographs copyright by Cynthia Davis, 2018.  All rights reserved.