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Saturday, September 22, 2018

Vienna, Buda and the Pest 
     
Vienna, Austria
The Old and the New

     Curb appeal is worth a lot.  First impressions are important.  It carries one along with a positive attitude.  Looking forward to what one will find.  As mentioned in a previous blog we have been staying in Airbnb’s the entire trip to this point.  Our Vienna digs had no curb appeal.  Budapest, on the other hand, had it in spades.  When arriving in Vienna via shuttle we were arriving at our first drop off destination and I remember thinking, Jeez, I hope this isn’t our place.  Well, it was.  We had to wait over 1/2 hour next to the garbage cans at the entrance for our host to show.  Not fun.  Then it took 2 days to finally say “well this place isn’t so bad”. 


Franz Liszt Academy of Music
Entrance to our pedestrian walkway
Budapest, Hungary

     In Budapest as we were searching for our apartment we were greeted by a startling array of blooming flower beds.  Then we walked along a tree-lined pedestrian walkway filled with restaurants and sidewalk cafes.  Did we love the apartment?  Immediately.  I would say the same thing applies to our love of the two cities, Vienna and Budapest.  So far I feel somewhat spoiled by Prague.  At least in terms of expectations.  We arrived in Vienna and it didn’t take long to realize that it is a big city with all the trappings.  Traffic big time, the noise that goes along with it, and the all expensive Euro as its currency.  It’s true that Vienna has such a charming ring to its name.  And before I get too ingrained in a negative narration I must say we only spent two full days there.  In short, I liked it but didn’t love it.  We saw some incredible art, attended a performance that we absolutely loved, and saw awe inspiring architecture.  The tourist scene is intense but we rolled with that.  


"Judith"
Gustav Klimt
Belvedere Museum, Vienna, Austria

     Vienna was the home of Gustav Klimt and he is, for good reason, their pride and joy.  Well, he and Mozart.  We wanted to indulge in both of these magnificent artists and we certainly managed to satiate that desire.  We visited both the Leopold and the Belvedere museums as they, in their permanent collections, have the most extensive works by Klimt.  Along the way one learns of the interesting upheaval that was happening in the art scene at the turn of the 20th century.  There was actually a rebellion of sorts that was led by the already famous Klimt.  He and other fellow artists at the time created the Vienna Succession, allowing artists to break away from what they considered the staid past and the control the old guard had over the art scene.  Who was also a member of the succession?  Remember Egon Schiele?  So we were able to indulge ourselves in Klimt and see his most famous painting, The Kiss.  


"The Kiss", detail
Gustav Klimt
Belvedere Museum, Vienna, Austria

     Cynthia had a reproduction of this painting in her room since she was a teenager.  We loved the live painting and the emotion it brought seeing it.  The Belvedere Museum also had a much more extensive collection of the works of Schiele and I came to appreciate him much more.  


"Reclining Woman"
Egon Schiele
Belvedere Museum, Vienna, Austria

     Sunday night we indulged once again.  For Cynthia’s birthday and our anniversary I had sprung for tickets to the Schönbrunn Palace Strauss and Mozart concert.  After having an early dinner at an unassuming Indian restaurant we strolled the grounds of the palace, got lost in the garden maze, gazed at the numerous statues, and generally reflected on the “have and have nots” that was represented by the opulence of the palace.  


Mozart and Strauss Concert
Sch
önbrunn Palace
Vienna, Austria

     Though divisions in wealth and prestige may not be as extreme as they were in earlier times they certainly do still exist.  On our last day in Vienna we did take a self-styled walking tour and experienced much of the beauty that city holds.  Again, we were in and out of the city quickly and we don’t profess to getting a full immersion.  

Schönbrunn Palace
Vienna, Austria
   
     A very fast and smooth train ride brought us from Vienna to Budapest.  We are getting good at the Metro systems and found our way, via public transport, to our apartment which again we absolutely loved.  Budapest is a city that would take time to get to know, but we definitely left with positive feelings.  Again, it is a big city.  Much of it is upscale.  The people are on the streets, enjoying life in the cafes and bars.  There are many neighborhoods where the streets are pedestrian only, but traffic is a reality.  The city is divided by the Danube River into two distinct sections, Buda and Pest.  


Pest from Buda
Budapest, Hungary

     We spent one full day exploring the castle, cafes and the incredible Matthias church of Buda.  The views of the Danube and Pest are definitely impressive as most of Buda sits high on a hill rising from the river.  One of the purely tourist things we did was take a late afternoon boat cruise on the Danube getting a lesson on the many stunning structures that line the shore.  The perfect past time for soothing the well worn feet.   


Matthias Church
Budapest, Hungary

Matthias Church Interior
Budapest, Hungary
     
     Budapest is known for its night life.  I would love to say that we partied hard in the Ruin Pubs that the city is famous for but that would be a lie.  But even without doing that one can absorb the feeling that a party is on going.  It was still warm (apparently unseasonably so) and the tables of the street-side restaurants, cafes and bars were packed.  And not just with tourists.  The locals seem to love hitting the street and that is where so much of the life is found.  
     On our last day in Budapest we visited the astounding Parliament Building of which all Hungarians are quite proud.  I will let Cynthia’s photo show you why.  


Hungarian Parliament
Budapest, Hungary
     
     Then we visited the House of Terror which was my idea and a bad one.  it was just a bummer both in presentation and content.  One does get some appreciation for the ungodly bad luck of the Hungarians.  First the Nazi’s came and occupied.  And here lies the ultimate irony.  The Russians were the ones who came and liberated Budapest.  At first the population was ecstatic.  But then what?  The liberators proceeded to occupy the country in a very authoritarian fashion for forty years until the break up of the Soviet Union in 1989.  Today it seems the Communists are hated every bit as much as the Nazis.   


St. Stephen's Basillica
Budapest, Hungary

     I did have one bummer experience in Budapest.  We were coming up to the street from the underground and I felt a slight tug on my “man purse”.  I reacted quite quickly but not quickly enough.  My wallet had been stolen from its zippered pouch by an incredibly skilled pick pocket.  It Immediately bummed me right out.  One the loss of the wallet, two that I let it happen.  Luckily theIr take was relatively minimal.  About $40 US (10,000 Hungarian HUFs) and my driver’s license.  No credit card, no passport.  Still, it took me some time to come to peace with it.  The driver’s license may complicate renting cars but we will just have to find a way around that.  What they didn’t get is much more important than what they did get.  On my travels over these many years I have been hit by 3 professional pick pockets.  Guatemala City, Buenos Aires, and Budapest.  One on them was successful.  May a pox invade their sacred sack!!!

St. Stephen's Basillica
Budapest, Hungary
     
     Our next destination will be Slovenia.  Best known to my fellow Americans as the home country of our first lady, Melania Trump.  We are looking forward to a quieter scene and hopefully renting a car in order to explore the countryside.  Both Cynthia and I are extremely upbeat, having a very satisfying experience, and eager to see what happens next.  Again, thank you for interest in the blog and we will report in again from Croatia.     

All photographs copyright by Cynthia Davis, 2018.  All rights reserved. 

Saturday, September 15, 2018

Cesky Krumlov

Streets of Cesky Krumlov
Czech Republic

     One walks along the narrow streets of Cesky Krumlov and it is not hard to imagine time tripping back to the 15th century.  The almost lane-size streets mean practically no cars.  The stone structure of the streets seem to be a reflection of their age.  The castle within view from many parts of the village has not changed, at least externally, since it was refurbished in the 16th century.   The castle actually dates from the 13th century.  


Cesky Krumlov Castle
Cesky Krumlov, Czech Republic
     
     The village, simply put, has extraordinary charm.  From the flowing Vltava river to the dominant terracotta roofs it is easy to see why it has been designated a UNESCO Word Heritage Site. There are tourists.  In fact I had to ask one particularly gregarious restaurant owner if there was a vital local community among the vast number of visitors.  He assured us there was. 


Terracotta Roofs and the Vltata River
Cesky Krumlov, Czech Republic
    
     Speaking of tourists, I have come to the point where I can embrace being one.  I always remember the the NYC adage.  “Don’t look up because they will know you are a tourist.”  So what?  By definition if one ventures outside their home territory they are a tourist.  Call it what you want (traveler, adventurer, visitor, globe trotter, tripper) you are still a tourist.  And be thankful you are one because venturing far from ones home can be one of the magical parts of life.   By definition if a place is beautiful, historical, different or “hip”, it is going to attract visitors.  That’s the law of the planet.  So if one would like to see those places then expect others.  The Asians are certainly getting out and about.  Fully 80% of the tourists in Cesky were Asian, the majority being Chinese.  Yes, there can be “too many tourists” but I am learning to see not the tourists but what I came to see in the first place!
  Oh yes, Cesky.  We stayed in a place above a “French Country” store. (Cynthia calls it shabby chic.)  The name of it was the “Never Ending Store” (they stole that from Dylan) and I can’t help but call it the “never ending locks”.  When the store is closed we had to go through no less than four locks to get into our apartment.  Cynthia has been the dedicated key person so she got it, but the first time was ridiculous.  
  Yes, in Cesky there is a castle and this one dominates for sure.  We took the tour and thoroughly enjoyed it.  So many interesting and beautiful things to look at.  We were also thrown quite the curve.  As we were wandering through a passage way there was a sign indicating an exhibit down in the catacombs of the castle.  What could that be about?  Down we went and were totally blown away by what we saw. 


The Czech-Krumlov Surreality
Exhibition of works by Miroslav Páral
Cesky Krumlov, Czech Republic

     There among the subterranean depths of the castle was the works of Miroslav Páral.  A true outsider this man.  His work was bizarre to say the least.  Erotic at times, a hint of humor, and all overlaid with a touch of the grotesque.  Combining his work with the setting was brilliant.  Hopefully Cynthia’s photos will give you some impression of what I write.  


Works by Miroslav Páral
Cesky Krumlov, Czech Republic

  Cynthia and I seem to be drawn to art galleries.  We didn’t only see the work of Páral but also Egon Schiele (1890-1918).  I must admit I had never heard of him but Cynthia remembered him from art school.  Klimt was his idol and mentor but he broke away with his own style, albeit again with a nod to the bizarre.  He apparently lived in Cesky for one year but was unceremoniously asked to leave as the town did not like his use of nude women models, some reportedly under age.  Nonetheless it is amazing what one can accomplish in such a short life.  


Drawing by Egon Schiele
Egon Schiele Gallery
Cesky Krumlov, Czech Republic
     
    
     He and his wife died so young in the flu epidemic of 1918 that took some 50 million people.  Along with Schiele’s work there was an exhibition in his self-named gallery entitled “View of Women” which included the works of three women artists whose work was “compatible” with that of Schiele.  Knowing very little when we walked in we left several hours later totally enthralled.  

Exhibition of Works by artist "ToyBox"
Egon Schiele Gallary
Cesky Krumlov, Czech Republic

     Just wandering the streets of Cesky is what this town is about.  As we were winding up our day, strolling down some back street all by ourselves, the sound of music came wafting down the lane.  “Is that live music” I asked Cynthia?  We followed the sound and indeed it was.  A big band was set up on the main square playing their hearts out.  Everything from Miles Davis to Glen Miller.  As the audience got in the rhythm several of the “tourists” began to dance.  Everyone was in a good mood and the musical interlude couldn’t have been more welcome.

Big Band
Cesky Krumlov, Czech Republic
   
     We have now arrived in Vienna.   We came by shuttle and the first 2/3 was farms and forests.  The road was so narrow we had to pull over when another vehicle was approaching.  We passed through several small villages that gave us a good insight into rural Czech Republic.  Loved it.   
     Vienna will be a bit of a whirlwind as we are venturing out of our Eastern European focus and chose not to spend much time here.  As is often the case our landing was a bit rough but seems to be smoothing out already.  There is so much to see and appreciate in Vienna, but we won't experience it all.  Much of the city we will have to save for next time.  Budapest awaits and our next blog should emanate from the star of Hungary.      


Night Stroll
Cesky Krumlov, Czech Republic

All photographs copyright by Cynthia Davis, 2018.  All rights reserved. 

Tuesday, September 11, 2018

Loving Prague!

Prague Skyline

     We are nearing the end of the first chapter in this adventure.  What we have experienced so far is a love affair with Prague.  What a city.  Architecturally beautiful with few exceptions, clean beyond belief, a mass transit system that is efficient as it can be resulting in very little auto traffic, and people who seem warm despite the language difference.  Did I mention the beer?  You have heard the phrase “beer is cheaper than water”?  Well, here it is true.  And all kinds, from micro-brewed to bottles found, it seems, in every other store.  
     I can’t call the journey from Guatemala fun, but it wasn’t bad either.  We sprung for Economy Plus on the leg from Houston to Frankfurt and had no regrets about doing it.  The flight was about 10 hours and when one lands they are well into the next day, so be awake!!!  A bit of Benadryl did the trick and we both got in at least 6 hours.  The efficient Germans seemed to have missed the mark a bit at the Frankfurt airport as the walks were marathon size, the stairs did not move, and the bus ride to the tarmac was jammed.  By the time we made the short flight to Prague all that was forgotten.
     We are doing a lot of Airbnb’s on this trip and the first one is a total hit.  Not huge but really modern and comfortable.  And Well Located.  We can walk just about everywhere in the city and walk we have.  You have heard of the required 10,000 steps a day (which I honestly believe should be 5,000)?  Well, we have logged an average of about 15,500 since we got here.  If one divides the number of beers we have drank into that number, I would say we deserved every drop.   


Hoisting a Pivo (Beer)

     So far our days have included synagogues, castles, museums, a couple of incredible churches, and a bevy of bars.  All worth the time in a variety of ways.  The story of the Jews in Prague is a complex one.  The story spans a 2,000 year history and in many ways capsulizes their incredible journey.  


The Spanish Synagogue
Prague, Czech Republic

     Without doubt the occurrence of the Nazi invasion of 1938 was catastrophic and one synagogue has, in small print, several rooms where every wall displays the names of the individuals disappeared in the holocaust.  Though I am certainly not making a comparison, in theme it did remind me of the Catholic church I visited in a small Guatemalan Mayan village in the Ixil Triangle where the names of 1/3 of the villages population appear as a tribute to those disappeared.  Have we learned?  I certainly hope so.  


77,297 Names
Pinkas Synagogue
Prague, Czech Republic

     The museums we have visited have been fascinating for totally different reasons.  The Prague City Museum gives an absolute exhaustive look at the history of Prague going back to Cro-Magnon man.  It gives me such pause to once again come face to face with the reality of how young my home country is.  While life was being played out in so many complexities here in Prague, the American Indian was living with nature in the U.S.  


Manifesto Market
Prague, Czech Republic

     After enjoying a beer and some sweet potato fries at the newish “hip” Manifesto Market, we found our way to the Alphonse Mucha Museum.  Here is an artist that clearly loved women and brought such life to the feminine allure.  He established himself by doing posters for famous people and events including the actress Sarah Bernhardt.  This allowed him to become known and wealthy, thus releasing him to create what he really wanted in his later years (The Slav Epic).  Hey, as an artist one does what ever it takes to make it work.  


Works by Alphonse Mucha
Mucha Museum
Prague, Czech Republic
     
     We did escape to the country in order to visit the Karlstejn Castle.  Though the castle was certainly worth seeing I think the incredibly smooth train ride through the beautiful countryside was one of our favorite parts of the day.  First off one has to figure out how the hell to buy a ticket and what platform the train is leaving from.  That took about 45 minutes of frustration, wrong turns, and some anxiety.  The ultimate way to figure it out is to ask.  However, one has to ask a person who speaks English and knows the answer.  Pretty tough to tell whom that person is.   We eventually figured it out and off we went.  


Karlstejn Castle
Karlstejn, Czech Republic

     The castle was not spectacular, but it was the experience we were looking for at the time.  The views from the top turrets of the surrounding country were magnificent.  A small village nestled amount the hills of greenery.  And of course, as with most castles, it held the high ground. 


View from Karlstejn Castle
Karlstejn, Czech Republic
  The pride and joy of Prague is the Prague Castle, and I must say for good reason.  Included in its vast grounds is the St Vitus Cathedral, undoubtedly one of the most outstanding structures I have ever seen.  It was shocking to walk through an archway and be totally astounded by the overall power of the cathedral.  


St Vitus Cathedral
Prague Castle
Prague, Czech Republic

     Words fall short.  600 years in the making.  I have never been a deeply religious person, in fact as I look back in history I know religion has been the cause of literally hundreds (thousands?) of wars continuing right up to this day.  But when religion is at its strongest it can be a cradle of creation.  And I mean artistically.  Yes, many of the themes have religious overtones but the artists were clearly inspired, the church able and willing to pay, and the result is something for the ages.  What single effort goes on for 600 years?  That’s roughly 24 generations.  Astounding.  The Cathedral had treasures ranging from the crypt of Charles IV to Art Nouveau stained glass windows by Mucha.  Though many more sites delight at the Castle, Cynthia and I could go back to the cathedral and just spend the day being mesmerized by the wonder.


St Vitus Cathedral
Prague Castle
Prague, Czech Republic
   
     Of course as is always the case just as one feels comfortable, knows their way around, and could just settle in for a while it is time to move on.  Tomorrow we take a 3 hour bus ride to a small town in the Czech Republic.  We will treasure our time in Prague, both of us being surprised and elated by this wonderful city.  We would return in a heart beat.  

All photographs copyright by Cynthia Davis, 2018.  All rights reserved. 

Sunday, September 2, 2018

Hello Friends      Cynthia and I are preparing for our next Great Adventure.  On September 5 we fly from Guatemala City arriving in Prague, Czech Republic on the 6th.  Thus will begin our 6 week journey through Eastern Europe.  Czech Republic, Vienna, Hungary, Slovenia, Croatia, Montenegro, and Dracula's home turf of Romania.  These are all new destinations for us and we approach them with excitement.  As in our last blog from Northern India Cynthia will do the photography and I will ply one of my favorite past times, writing.  If you receive this cordial invitation to join us in our adventures you will receive the blog via your email.  We promise not to make the posts too long and will try to capture the treasures, both obvious and hidden, of each destination.  We do love doing the blog, it capsulizes and enhances our experience, and you joining us in our adventure makes it all the
richer.  See you on the road.        JB and Cynthia
Disorganized Organization