Reflections

     As Cynthia and I come out of our jet lag, slowly the mind begins to clear.  With the clarity comes some feelings and observations about the journey we have just had.  Going into the trip I was a bit concerned about how being on the road would effect our general state of health.  Many of you know I am diabetic.  Since I was diagnosed in my mid fifties I have let it influence very little in terms of my daily activities, or our more ambitious desires in terms of travel.  But I also know that a schedule and somewhat of a routine are factors in keeping the glucose readings under control.  Being on the road in S.E. Asia does not fit that bill, nor would one want it to.  I am glad to report that both Cynthia and I stayed healthy the entire journey.  One time when we were in the extreme heat of Southern Cambodia Cynthia got dehydrated and had a set back.  She recovered within half a day.  Of course that would happen when we were staying in the most challenging of situations.  By that I mean our room was a bit of a dive.
     We approached this trip as we had not done before, we treated ourselves to comfort.  In Myanmar one doesn't have a huge choice.  One either stays in the few low rent hotels there are, or one pays a price.  There is no in between.  Also we booked ahead of time which is also out of the ordinary for our travel style, but seemed necessary given the limited infrastructure for travelers in Myanmar.  On U.S. standards the rooms were not outrageous, but for S.E. Asia hotels in Myanmar are expensive.  In general we paid between $50 and $80 a night (less in Cambodia and Laos).  Sometimes that was for three of us.  I have to say that the comfort did make a difference in how we felt, especially over the long haul.  The rooms were air conditioned, and believe me with a few exceptions, it was hot.  Also, to my surprise, most of them had refrigerators (a profit center with the mini bars), thus I was able to keep the insulin chilled.  It would not be out the ordinary to spend a few hours in the afternoon just chilling, and it really helped to be able to do that in a room with light and cool air.  Another thing we did to make the trip easier was to fly more than we had done before.  Rather than getting beat up on a bus for 8-12 hours we flew for 45 minutes. Not only does it save the body but it gives one more time to do what you came there for.  See the country.  In all we took 7 flights either between countries or within a country.  It definitely added to the expense of the trip, but we more than made up for it in savings on the body!
     There is no question that going into the trip Myanmar was our focus.  It seemed the less traveled, perhaps less developed, the "forbidden fruit".   Many of these preconceived notions turned out to be true, others not.  In terms of sights to visit Myanmar has some true highlights.  The problem, if there is one, is that there are three main places all tourists go, so there is a concentration of foreigners in those locations.  We did get off the beaten path in Southern Myanmar, but we didn't make it to the North where it is more tribal, but also has less in the way of traveler accommodations. Permits are often needed in order to go.  But something clicked about 1/3 into the trip that I have always known.  I am a tourist myself.  To have an attitude about tourists, as many people do, is to have an attitude about oneself.  Yes, it is nice to be unique but the reality is that is going to happen less and less in this world, even in a place like Myanmar.
     As referenced in a previous blog, Myanmar seemed less restrictive than I had expected it to be.  It seemed to have come a long way in terms of  personal freedoms.  The internet has become widely available within the last five years or so.  Cell phones, which ten years ago cost an outrageous $10,000, now are affordable for the everyday person.  But all is not well.  Since we have left, Shan State in the North has seen violence between the army and citizens that is the worst in years.  Another occurrence that has really hit home since our visit was government violence against a group who was protesting an education bill.  As we were making our way North via car we came upon a large group of people marching down the middle of the road.  They were boisterous, sign-carrying young people who were clearly doing a protest march.  Some English was spoken so we asked what was happening.  They indicated it was a protest march about education and they were walking from Mandalay to Yangon, believe me a long way. They had already been marching for 3 weeks and had several more weeks to go.  It definitely made an impression.  As I was cruising the news about 2 weeks later I came upon an article about mass arrests and jailing of some protestors near Yangon.  It turned out that the army met the very same group outside of Yangon that we had encountered. They were forcibly broken up, and there was a mass arrest of the protestors.  So clearly, though things are better, not all is milk and honey in Myanmar.

Protestors on the road from Mandalay to Yangon, Myanmar

     Traveling in Cambodia and Laos was an education.  I knew very little about either country, and what I did know was either related to the Vietnam War or the genocide of the Khmer Rouge.  What I came away with was a thorough respect for the resilience of the population of both countries.  Cambodia embraces their past as a way to approach the future, or maybe I should say how not to approach their future.  They have acknowledged their horrific past (see blog post "Cambodia with Mixed Emotions") but seem to have moved on.  The population is young and vital.  Their economy seems to be strong, Phnom Penh is a happening city, and of course they have the incredible resource that is Angkor Wat.  I would definitely return to Cambodia, try to do some of the areas further to the East, and enjoy the energy that tends to be infectious.
     It was interesting to me to again realize that government affects life, but only so far.  Day-to-day existence, especially for a traveler, can be the same in a military dictatorship as it is in a full fledged democracy.  Laos (Lao Peoples Democratic Republic) has been definitely communist since 1975. They have a close relationship with Vietnam and revere Ho Chi Minh as a great father and leader.  Actually it was the only time we had an occurrence where a young woman asked us where we were from, and when we said the U.S. her response was "oh no".  But as travelers we were made welcome, had no restrictions on where we could go, and witnessed many small businesses that were individually owned and thriving.  Laos paid the price for their location on the globe as they were systematically carpet bombed by the U.S. during the Vietnam war.  Ho's name comes up once again, the reason being that the U.S. was trying to disrupt the Ho Chi Minh trail.  Apparently it didn't work.  But they are still suffering from the effects.  While Cambodia has all the unexploded land mines, Laos has mass amounts of unexploded ordinance.  It is a situation that is not going away any time soon, yet the country seems not to obsess on the past.  In fact, if I had to recommend any city to visit in that part of the world it could be Luang Prabang.

Buddhist monks accepting alms, Luang Prabang, Laos

     There is no doubt that this trip has rekindled Cynthia's and my love for travel.  Our project in Paxanax, Guatemala was all consuming for many years.  Now we have a comfortable home there and can look at other places to keep the juices flowing.  Even on the plane on the way home we looked at each other and said, "where next"?  We feel so fortunate to be able to fulfill these dreams.  We are definitely not rich, but life is moving fast and we both agree that there is no better way to spend what we do have than on travel.  Besides, I have always liked the adage, "die broke".  So hopefully, off in the future, this blog will continue with stories of other far away places.      

JB, photos by Cynthia Davis

Farewell South East Asia

     Morning came early.  With a new moon high in the sky, Cynthia and I made it into the street before dawn.  What was the catalyst?  The Buddhist monks' "Call to Alms".  Luang Prabang, our final stop on the trip, is a city of Buddhist wats.  It is said that over 600 monks live in the old part of the city.  So each morning the same ritual is repeated.  At sunrise the monks "take to the streets" to bless the followers and receive their sustenance for the day. Mostly women have their seat all arranged and their offering, usually sticky rice or some fruit, prepared to give the monks as the procession goes by.  Though it has become somewhat of a tourist attraction, it does not majorly detract from the ambiance the event creates.  Well over a hundred monks in their orange robes giving and receiving.  By 6:30 a.m. it was over.  The streets returned to normal and the monks disappeared with no further fanfare.
     We have been here in Luang Prabang for 5 days now.  We left Vang Vieng in the pouring rain, a sure sign that it was time to move on.  The usual confusion reigned as we arrived in LP 4 hours later, having no idea where we were, no luck with English-speaking help, and not a taxi in sight.  We finally made it to what we thought was our hotel and were greeted by blank stares.  Nope, no reservation here.  It turned out there were two hotels with very similar names and all we had read in Trip Advisor had been about the one we didn't booked!!!  Rats!!!  Well, we got lucky and ended up really liking our digs, once we found it that is.
     Luang Prabang gets a lot of hype.  Most travelers who come to Laos come here, and it gets great reviews.  I have to say I concur.  Situated right on the Mekong River, it once again has that very laid back Laotion feel.  No buildings over two stories, easy to get around on foot, a well preserved river front that lends itself perfectly to that 5:30 beer as one watches the sun set over the Mekong.  And there is plenty to do.  For those who haven't been in S.E. Asia before the Wats would be a great attraction.  They are working Wats in that the monks are very much "in house" taking care of the various chores that need to be done.  Cynthia and I, for the most part, took a pass on this; not out of a negative attitude but because we didn't want to ruin a good thing by overdoing it.  So much of the countries we visited, with the possible exception of Cambodia, has the Pagodas, the Buddhas, and the Wats taking the main stage. That is as it should be since many of them have been there for over a thousand years, yet one can get a bit jaded and that it what we were avoiding.
     Our days were taken up by going up the Mekong, doing a wonderful day with the elephants, and visiting some breathtaking waterfalls.  When one goes up the Mekong it is obstensibly to see some caves that have the requisite Buddha's tucked away inside.  Well, that was ok, but the trip up the river was the real draw for us.  Jungle, some villages, seeing the different type of long boats that ply the river; all this was a real treat.  Plus we stopped at what is billed as "whiskey village." Well, they are not kidding as the tribal village is known for distilling whisky and rice wine, and one is enticed into trying it as soon as you hit shore. Not bad is my revue!  I bought two small bottles at an eye popping $1.20 each.
     One of our favorite days of the entire trip was visiting Elephant Village.  Laos is known for its elephants but as with so many living things the elephant population is being severely threatened by changes to their environment, as well as poaching. There used to be thousands of elephants in Laos and now they say the population is about 1,500.  Of those some 500 are in the wild, another 500 are doing logging, and the rest are plying the tourist trade.  I know that on the surface the tourist aspect doesn't sound so good.  But in actuality there is definitely an argument for it. The logging industry is on the wane in Laos.  Thus less "jobs" for the elephants.  They are losing their natural habitat and they are an expensive animal to keep in captivity.  Food alone runs big bucks, especially in a country with limited means like Laos.  So there are many "elephant camps" popping up where the elephants are the go-to tourist draw.  They are well fed, live in rural places, and have medical care when needed.  And do the tourists love them.  Cynthia and I learned the basic commands, go, stop, left, right.  (I paid particular attenting to STOP, how how!)  Then we took a short test ride on the elephant.  Getting on and off is a bitch at first.  They are way the hell up there!!  Then after our lesson we took about a 45 minute ride.  One has the option of riding in a "basket" on top of the elephant, or on its neck right behind the head.  It was a trip.  Again, Cynthia has the photos and they will be fun to check out.  After lunch and a bit of a respite it was time to wash the elephants. They are done working at 2 in the afternoon and the elephants are ready for their afternoon bath in the river. One gets on their assigned elephant once again, and goes through the whole washing thing.  It was again, so much fun.  Their mahouts, each elephant has his own handler, gives a command and they spray water all over the place, for sure on the person sitting on the elephant.  Cynthia and I just couldn't stop laughing.  What made the day more enjoyable was that we made a wonderful connection with the 4 other people that were in our group.  We were a diverse lot from all over the place and a representive from each decade.  I, of course, was the oldest.  Oh well, better get used to that!
     Finally, the last two days we have rented a motor bike and made our way to the Tat Kuang Si Waterfalls.  It was a beautiful one hour ride out there on a paved (yes!) road that ran through mountains and small villages.  The falls themselves were truly impressive. There were several pools to swim in, they fell from dizzing heights, and the jungle atmosphere topped it all off.  Getting there on the bike beat the hell out of the back of a tuk tuk.  The fact that we went two days in succession makes the statement.
     This evening we watched our final sunset over the Mekong, drinking the last of our Beerlao.  The price was right for sure.  $1.20 for a large beer, sunset included. Tomorrow we start the long journey home.  We fly back to Bangkok in the afternoon, spend a quick night, then head to the airport for the LONG flight the next morning.  I can't say enough about this trip (or maybe I already have!).  There have been practically no negatives.  I have certainly enjoyed doing this blog and, as I trust you know, really appreciate you reading it. When in Canada my intent is to post one final blog.  I want to give my overall impressions of the trip, travel, and what it has meant to Cynthia and I.  At the same time Cynthia will be able to begin posting some of her excellent photos.  I have been totally impressed with them and I am sure they will be appreciated.  So again my friends, we are happy, healthy, learning more each day, and somewhat sorry to be at the end of our journey!!    JB

Laid Back Laos

     Cynthia and I are on our last day in Vang Vieng, Laos.  It has definitely been a change of gears from both Myanmar and Cambodia.  I think we put it into first.  Our introduction to Laos was Vientiane, the capitol city of Laos.  It sits on the Mekong River, which I swear gets around like no other river on the planet.  It seems to pop up everywhere!  We really liked Vientiane, mainly because of the easy layout and the fact that it is so CALM.  A lot of the time one could literally walk down the middle of the street in the main tourist section and not to have to be concerned about being hit by a car.  No high rises, an easy street layout, some good but very informal restaurants, all made for an easy time there.  One downside, it was HOT.  As hot as I have experienced in a long time.  We would go back to the room in the afternoon and spend a couple of hours in the air con room.  Without that it just would have been too exhausting.
     There wasn't a lot to do in Vientiane.  There are Wats, but Cynthia and I have seen the mother of all pagodas on this trip and we are a bit "Wated Out".  So we rented a motor bike and hit the road to see the outlying sights.  We went to Buddha Park which is actually cooler than it sounds.  Oh yes, on the way out of town we went by the American Embassy. Fucking HUGE.  What is that about (I hate to guess!)?  Xieng Khuan, or Buddha Park, is this sculpture park envisioned and created by one man.  Yes there are images of Buddha, but definitely not like we had seen before.  Cynthia and I immediately thought of outsider art.  It was built in 1958 and all the sculptures are of concrete.  Some are huge, some grotesque, some just simply bizarre.  When Cynthia is able to post some pictures on this blog be sure and check the ones out from the park.
     We passed three easy days in the city, cruising the streets, hitting the night market, riding the bike, and shopping.  At least looking, as the serious consumer days seem to have passed us both by.  Sunday morning we got on a bus for the trip to Vang Vieng.  We started slow, I kept waiting for  the Guatemalan Chicken Bus attitude.  NO ONE PASSES ME.  I PASS EVERYONE.  I swear the entire ride we never made it over 40 MPH.  Easy does it.  Oh lets stop here for a while to get some snacks.  Cracked me up!  I'm sure they have a lot fewer road deaths here than most other countries.  Of course it also has to do with the reality of the condition of the roads.  ROUGH!
     Vang Vieng, which sits on the Nam Song River, used to be party central.  As in raves and drugs.  All kinds.  It used to be a lot of other things as well.  On the outskirts of the small town is this long area of crumbling pavement. LONG. Immediately you wonder what the hell is this?  Well it was an air strip built by the CIA during, or even before, the Vietnam War. It was used by Air America (google it) to do all kinds of shit.  As a matter of fact I have a good high school friend who was a pilot in the Air Force during the Vietnam war.  I knew he had operated out of Laos (again, it was a secret part of the war).  So I wrote him and asked if he had ever flown out of Lima Site 27, the code name for this airport.  He wrote back and said he was based at another Lima site but he had flown in and out of here several times.  Yikes.  Kind of brings it all home!!
     We have rented motor bikes two of the days here.  First day we took this spine jarring ride through the back country.  Loved it but the road was a bitch.  We passed through several Hmong villages (very poor), saw some beautiful scenery, and went caving.  Once, though there are a ton of caves here.  We saw the largest spider I have ever seen, and we have some big ones in Guatemala.  Also a big ass snake, and some beautiful scenery.  This morning we went kayaking.  It was the 1/2 day version.  Well we left the town at 9 and were back by 10:30.  Cyn and I were saying WTF?  Does the all day version give one 2 hours on the river?  Still enjoyed it but we had most of the day left.  So I rented a bike again and went off solo.  Had a great day.  No traffic, seriously back roads, small villages, and a pathetic waterfall (it's the dry season).  So glad to be back in touch with two wheels.
     Tomorrow Cyn and I leave for Luang Prabang, the culmination of our trip.  It gets great reviews.  We'll find out in the next blog.  Know that Cynthia and I are happy, healthy, still learning, and very laid back.  As always, thanks so much for reading the blog!!!   P.S.   We just had a great dinner. Family place. Kids and cats running all over. $12 for the two of us including two large Lao Beers. We have spent more than this but it says what is possible.
   

Temples of Angkor and the Scene that is Siem Reap

     Today is our last full day in Siem Reap, the home to the complex commonly known as Angkor Wat.  We have visited the temples four of the five days we have been here. The other day was just as interesting as we visited the Cambodian Land Mine Museum and a butterfly farm.  Needless to say, quite the contrast.  Landmines are a curse in Cambodia that is still ongoing as I write.  Contrary to my previous belief that the Vietnam War was to blame,  most of them were set in place during the Cambodian Civil War that raged between varying factions in the 70's, 80's and early 90's (once again Pol Pot and his Khmer Rouge raise their ugly head).  We are talking thousands upon thousands of them.  Of course there is no record of the location of their placement so totally innocent people have been maimed by the score.  Both in Siem Reap and outside several of the temples there are various troups of land mine victim musicians who perform their unique style of music.  A small sign will be posted that explains who they are and asks for contributions to help their families.  Frankly an explanation is hardly needed as most of them are missing various limbs.  Yesterday we visited one of the more remote temples, Beng Mealea. Outside a sign read that land mine clearing around that temple had begun in 2003, a mere 12 years ago, and that over 450 land mines had been discovered.  They indicated the clearing of the mines was still in progress.  So this really brings home what an issure it is for the Cambodians.

     The temples themselves do not disappoint.  The park which contains most of the temples is immense.  One needs a vehicle, usually a tuk tuk, to get from one complex to the next as distances are not necessarily short.  Rather than try and explain the temples I will write of what stood out to me.  Number one has to be the number of sculptures and carvings that are contained in the temples.  Literally thousands upon thousands of them. And they are in such good condition.  Most of them date from 800 a.d. to 1200 a.d. so we are talking a 1,000 years.  The detail on so many of them is still so exact.  I would be exploring around what seemed a pile of ruble and come upon a perfectly executed and preserved carving.  I try and think why this is the case with the Angkor Temples and not the Mayan ones.  True the carving and sculpting here is more intricate but time has not diminished them as one would expect.  Perhaps the Spanish Conquerers are somewhat at fault for the condition of the Mayan ruins, I am not sure.  

     I am quite impressed with how the Cambodians, and whomever else is responsible, has approached the treasure they have.  In Myanmar we noticed that many of their ancient pagodas had had major restoration done.  Not at Angkor.  Today we visited the huge complex (I can't really call it a temple) of Preah Khan.  I was amazed at its immensity, the number of carvings and sculptures (thousands), and the way that it has been left much as it was found.  Huge boulders lie about in disarray. Much has been naturally preserved, but much is not.  On the way out we stopped at the small information center.  They said that the idea of this temple was to treat it as a ruin and preserve it as ruin.  Most things that had been done to it were for the purpose of not allowing further deterioration, not to restore it to what present day archeologists think it looked like at its hey day.  Smart I think.

     One can not visit Angkor and not wonder "how the hell did they do this". The huge boulders brought from the mountains that in todays standards would be considered nearby.  Well not then.  It just boggles the mind that humans, a thousand years ago, were able to mine this stone, transport it by whatever means (elephant, river), and proceed to build these immense structures.  THEN, they would carve, sometimes every available surface, with works that were an ablsoute stunning statement of art. There is no doubt that slave labor was involved, and it surely demonstrates the power of the kings who were the driving force behind their construction.  I guess that scenario was played out to a large degree with many other wonders of the world. Today man does amazing things when it comes to architecture and building.  But 95% of the time there is a profit motive.  Not so with these.  Religion and ego seemed to be the driving force.  I can only be thankful that they exist and that I was able to make the journey to witness them.

     To contrast with this ancient wonder is the city of Siem Reap.  And what a scene it is. The town is actually aesthetically quite pleasing.  Set along the not large Siem Reap River it is relatively clean and well laid out.  There are parks and many pleasant places to pass away a hot afternoon (and believe me, it's HOT).  And then there is the Psar Chaa area. What a trip.  The main street in the area is called Pub Street and that is not an accident.  At night they close the area to traffic and the streets are packed. Tons of restaurants and things to buy.  Every kind of cuisine imaginable. (Witness a restaurant that advertised a mix of Mexican and Khmer.  What?) Lit up like a Christmas tree.  Kind of like Kao San Rd in Bangkok, but a bit more up scale.  We have hit the area every night that we have been here so you know it has some appeal, at least to the likes of us. So when one comes to Cambodia to experience the Temples of Angkor, you don't have to go without.  We are in the nicest hotel of the trip ($75 for 3) with a killer breakfast.  A 10 minute walk takes one to an eating, drinking, shopping paradise.  No, we haven't suffered in Siem Reap.

     So tomorrow sees the three of us going to the airport together, but going different directions.  Kathy flies to Bangkok and then heads back to the States.  Cynthia and I fly to Vientiane to continue our adventure in Laos.  The three of us have gotten along remarkably well and have managed to entertain each other in numerous ways.  Not all full of laughs, but mostly so.  As always I want to thank you for reading the blog and know that we are healthy, happy, and learning new things each day.                  JB

The Beach, the Bike and the Beer

     There has definitely been a change of pace on our trip.  This is our 6th day on the Gulf of Thailand.  Three different locations.  Kep, Kampot, and Sihanoukville.  I have mentioned how the accomodations on this trip have been an uptick over other S.E. Asia adventures.  Well in Kep we got to the hotel, rather out of the way both from the ocean and anything else, and discovered we had gotten the dates wrong.  So "no room at the inn".  We got back in the Tuk Tuk and put our fate in the hands of the driver.  He took us to this place that was right on the water.  Immediately we were charmed. (JB was charmed.  Cynthia not so much.)  Then we looked at the room.  Oh yeah, that it what they used to look like.  Small, dark, no AC, needed a paint job, but heh, $20 for the three of us.  Sure, we'll take it.  It did have a fan and that puppy ran 24/2, the entire time we were there.  Most of the time the one sheet they gave you seemed like too much.  On the second night we were there Cynthia went to use the bathroom.  A frog was in the toilet. Scared the hell out of her. There was also a mosquito in the room. The frog lept out of the toilet and I would like to think ate the mosquito!!  Kep did have fabulous sunsets and a row of restaurants that are famous for their crab.  One sits over the water, watches the sun go down, and eats the local sea food.  We enjoyed it but decided it was time to move on after 2 nights.  Frankly, the realities of the room were too much.
     Kampot isn't too far and we grabbed a tuk tuk for $15 and headed out.  We  had a room booked, and celebrated as we walked into the clean, cool, bright surroundings.  If one wanted to do a serious hang Kampot wouldn't be a bad place to do it.  It's not on the ocean, but is on the Kampong Bay River.  They have done a great job preserving their riverfront and there are a number of restaurants and bars to take care of one's needs.  There isn't a lot to do in Kampot, but when we read up on it it seemed that two things stood out.  One was the cave with the small temple inside dating from the 6th century, and the other was the "firefly river tours".  The cave turned out to be an absolutely spine jarring one hour tuk tuk ride across a flat terrain dotted with deep green patches of a crop we couldn't identify.  Again, the journey was just as interesting as the cave.  A look into the life of the poorer farmers of the Cambodian countryside.  Cynthia and Kathy spied a beautiful kingfisher as we were enroute. The cave itself was interesting enough but we spent about 15 minutes there. Worth it?  Well our backs recovered so I guess I would say yes.
     That late afternoon we got tickets for the firefly boat ride up the river.  We set out with a sceptical attitude and that's a good thing.  The tour was supposed to last 2 hours, until 7 p.m.  We figured no problem we'll eat afterwards.  About an hour and one half going up river the boat turned around.  No fireflys yet.  As the hunger and thirst began to set in, and we were truly in the boonies, the boat headed for the shore.  When close to the shore the boatman said, look fireflys!!  Well the whole boat teatered as everyone scrambled to see the fireflys.  Sure enough, up in the trees were a few fireflys.  Now not to be too critical but Cynthia and I have seen what fireflys can be like.  In Guatemala they are so bright (albeit only for about a month before rainy season) that they look like people with a flashlight.  I also remember in the fields outside of State College, PA seeing an entire meadow absolutely on fire.  It was incredible.  But, no tours!!  We made it back to the "dock" (actually there wasn't one, you just scrambled off the bow and with luck found the shore!) about 8 and just made it before hunger took over.  Of course we did miss cocktail hour which was a real bitch.  Worth it?  Yes if you like cruising the river as the sun goes down.
     The next morning we got in a mini bus and headed to Sihanoukville.  They apparently took some pointers from the Guatemalans on this as they crammed 14 passengers AND their luggage into the van.  Unbelievable.  Made me a believer in buses as at least one has a seat to themselves.  We arrived in Sihanoukville, a bit stiff, about 2 hours later.  We got to our hotel and were thrilled.  Overlooks the small pool, is clean and bright, and a 5 minute walk to the beach.  I again rented a moto and have been out the last two days exploring the nearby areas.  On our first night we made our way along the walkway between the very low key restaurants and the ocean.  A sign saying 50 cent drafts caught our attention.  Now that is a deal.  Couldn't pass it up.  They were good on their word.  6 beers, $2.  We also took a look at the menu.  Quite extensive including their "happy menu".  Yep, just what you are thinking. An entire page of various drinks and dishes cooked with the herb.  The last entry was "joint", $1.50.  The ladies definitely cautioned me about embibing, saying it could come back to bite me in the ass.  So I didn't, but then we have one more night left!!
     This is our last beach day.  Tomorrow we fly to Siem Reap and Angkor Wat, something I have been looking forward to for many years and the culmiination of Kathy's trip.  Next entry will tell the tales of the temples.  Know that we are healthy, happy, loving the road, and ready for the next adventure.               JB
   

Cambodia with Mixed Emotions

     When we crossed Mao Tse Toung Blvd., I knew we weren't in Kansas anymore.  For that matter we weren't in Myanmar either!  Yes, we have arrived in Cambodia, a country so much more complex than I had understood before.  The long elegant dresses of the young women in Myanmar have given way to short skirts and shorts. The nondescript local restaurant can now be a Dominoes or a KFC.  The neighborhood where our hotel was had more coffee shops in one block than any place this side of Seattle.  So the good news is that Phnom Penh is bustling and full of life, in a good way.  Evil, however, lurks in its history.  Cambodia has the misfortune to be squeezed between two countries that are much larger and stronger then it is: Vietnam and Thailand.  In the olden days it was much larger, but over time it has lost much territory to its neighbors.  I won't go into a history lesson here as I am just trying to understand it myself, but clearly there is a very dark side to it.  During the Vietnam War the more powerful North Vietnamese began using both Laos and Cambodia as jumping off points for their attacks on the Americans and South Vietnam.  The American military, not liking this obviously (and not telling the American people) began bombing both Laos and Cambodia.  The civilians fled to the city for protection as they were being killed in large numbers.  Exit the Americans from Vietnam and enter Pol Pot in Cambodia, one of the true deamons of history.  Pol Pot invisioned a "pure" communist society based on a classless system with the peasant and agrarian population being its core.  So he marched into Phnom Penh on April 17, 1975 and, as I have read elsewhere, turned the calendar back to zero. One of his first acts was to send all city dwellers to the country to be agricultural workers, some would say slaves.  During the three and half years of Pol Pot's rule 1/4 of the population died.  The causes ran from starvation to mass executions.  Thus the Killing Fields, which is the one label that most of us identify with Cambodia.  Intellectuals, artists, professionals, were all singled out for death.  It is reported that 90% of the country's artists and artisans were executed including one of the most famous actresses and a famous singer. It goes beyond what most of us can imagine, or frankly care to imagine. The world seemed to turn a blind eye.  I was no youngster in 1976 and I remember hearing nothing of this atrocity. The North Vietnamese "liberated" the country in 1979, but the U.S., and much of the Western World, still recognized Pol Pot's government as being legitimate, mainly because of our animosity towards Vietnam.
     So that is a brief idea of what the current population of Cambodia is coming out of, or has been for 25 years now.  And they are doing a good job of it.  As mentioned Phnom Penh is a vibrant city with lots of energy and an active population.  The arts are making a comeback, as witnessed by the short opera we attended at the National Museum.  The riverfront is packed with hotels and restaurants seemingly doing a good business.  So I would come back to Phnom Penh and get to know it better.  It is definitely worth a visit.
     While Cambodia is looking to the future they are not fogetting their past.  The three of us spent yesterday visiting the notorius Tuoi Sleng Museum and the Killing Fields of Choeung Ek.  The former is the prison where Pol Pot's government tortured its citizens and the latter is the place of mass executions.  One may ask why go to depressing places like this?  Well, we felt not to go was turning our backs on the realities of the country.  We also felt we wanted to honor those who had died, and get a better understanding of the place and people we were visiting.  We have no regrets about going.  The prison (Tuoi Sleng) was bleak.  Tiny cells, chains, instruments of torture.  But there was such an uplifting side as well.  Our guide, a woman of 50 years, had been a child living in Phnom Penh when the Khemer Rouge took over the city.  She was separated from her family, saw the loss of her father and siblings, yet told the story in such a poignent way.  She shared her memories and feelings with us to the degree that by the time we left there was no doubt a connection had been made.  And then the Killing Fields. It was such a profound and touching experience.  They have done an amazing job in regard to showing it to visitors.  It is not in your face, as one might expect.  Everyone is given a pre-recorded headset into which you enter numbers corresponding to prompts along the pathway. They ask visitors to maintain silence, which they do.  So one walks around the 3 or 4 acre grounds listening to and learning about the realities that took place there.  It was touching, thought provoking, and was, amazingly, incredibly peaceful.  The main shocking part was the memorial that had been built to house the skulls of the victims.  But even that was something we did not want to avoid.  As we were leaving it felt as though we were awakening from a meditative state.  Not depressed, just once again amazed at the horrible things that man is capable of.  
     As mentioned, last night we actually saw an opera.  A tradegy no less, but with plenty of life's lessons to be had.  The costuming was so elegant, the dancing classic and beautiful to watch. Then we headed to the river front and had a very satisfying Indian dinner.  Sat and watched the Mekong River.  Now that certainly brings up memories of the past (luckily  it was the first time I had ever seen it).  We got on a bus at 7 this morning (definitely not luxury) and now sit next to the Gulf of Thailand listening to the gentle lap of the waves.  We'll be in Southern Cambodia for six days.  I've rented a moto for exploring, we've had a beer and it's only 3:30 p.m., and we are glad for the change of pace.  We are happy, healthy, and full of life.  Once again, thanks for reading the blog!!!                  JB
     

Goodbye Myanmar

     Today we flew back to Yangon and have one night here before flying to Phnom Penh in Cambodia.  Though I think we are ready to leave, it is not because Myanmar has not been welcoming, as well as fascinating.  I believe we have seen a lot of the country, actually a lot more than many of its residents.  This is not uncommon when traveling, but it also reflects the realities of Myanmar.  It is by large a poor country, with a very small middle class, with little technology and mainly an agricultural population.  There is no doubt that the burgeoning tourist industry is huge for the people.  Everywhere we went there were vendors, mainly aiming for tourists, selling the creations of Myanmar.  Unfortunately many of them had exactly the same thing.  I wrote of the intense approach of selling in Bagan.  I did not find it like that in other parts of Myanmar, or I should say not so "hard sell".  While I am glad for the influx of foreign currencies coming into the country, there is also a not so good side of this.  Many times we were told by locals that the big hotels and many of the larger "tourist businesses" were owned by military families.  They, as well as our travel book, would encourage visitors to support the locals.  Frankly it was hard to tell when we were doing that and when we were not.  Sometimes, of course, it was obvious.  One would go to an obscure temple or pagoda and there would be literally tens, or even hundreds, of vendors set up on basic tables or blankets trying to eke out a living.  Rough, is all I can say. But as I have repeatedly found in third world countries poverty does not equal sadness or desperation.  In general, the people we encountered were going about their lives good naturedly and with smiles on their faces.  To me it is one of the reasons to travel in the third world.  Life is simpler, more down to earth, and one is in touch with the basics of life.  This is not fertile ground for depression.
     A few observations in Myanmar that I found interesting.  Money.  Early on I saw that our driver Soe carried his wallet tucked in the back of his loungyi.  The worst place to carry it in terms of theft.  Finally I decided to mention it to him.  At first he didn't understand what I was getting at.  When he did get my meaning he looked at me as though I didn't have a clue what I was talking about.  Then he explained that in Myanmar theft was basically unheard of.  Not  an issue.  This was made even clearer in a store we frequented in Inlae Lake.  The "cash register" was an open basket on the counter.  When anyone in the store sold something they would toss the bill(s) in the basket and fish out the change, if there was any.  No watching the basket, no one person in charge of cash, no attemp to hide the basket.  It was hard for me to get used to.  Now you know that I love Guatemala and feel very safe there but the Coke truck has a machine gun toting guard riding shotgun!!!!
     The roads in Myanmar that are in the middle of nowhere have tolls.  It's amazing.  One is riding along, haven't seen a car in 10 minutes, and there is a bar across the road with a man, or more likely a young woman, collecting a toll.  Who authorizes it, or where the money goes who knows.  Another strange thing.  The driver side of the car is on the right, like in the UK, but the traffic pattern is the same as in the States.  So you drive in the right seat on the right side of the road.  No wonder they use their horns so much!!
     Want to know by far what the predominant advertising sign in Myanmar is?  Myanmar Beer and Grand Royal Whiskey.  I mean they have a lip lock on signage space.  They are everywhere.  Any little roadside shack that sells anything has a Myanmar Beer and Grand Royal sign out front.  No exception. (The beer is basically a Bud, but for $2.50 the Grand Royal Whiskey is nothing but smooth!)  Made me wonder if  that was the military's way of controlling the population!!  That is a weak joke as actually we saw very little drinking going on in Myanmar.  No drunks on the street, drinking tea and coffee in the cafes.  So I am not sure where the signage fits in.  Maybe the companies are owned by military families?
     And finally a note to all you motorcycle friends.  Motorcycles and scooters are a major form of transportation in Myanmar.  They even have a helmut law!  But apparently some years ago a military general had a bad run in with a moto in Yangon.  Now they are outlawed in the city.  Not a cycle or scooter in sight!  In the States they can't even keep the laws requiring helmuts despite the fact that head injuries are a huge problem.  So what is the conclusion?  Is there some advantage to a government that can actually make a decision instead of stalemate, stalemate?  No, I don't think there is.
     So the three of us are happy and looking forward to a new adventure.  Many exciting things await us in Cambodia.  We are half way through our trip.  Kathy is feeling a bit punky today, but I believe she will make a quick recovery.  She is quickly becoming an experienced traveler.  Thanks for reading the blog, it is a joy to write it.  A big hug from Cynthia and I to all our friends in the States and Guatemala.     JB

Final Mandaly Days and Inlae Lake

    For the first time on our trip the internet has really gone South.  Thus the space between posts.  My last entry had us in Mandalay, Myanmar's second largest city.  We enjoyed our stay there and at the same time were ready to leave.  A couple of highlights.  About a half hour from Mandalay is the ancient city of Inwa.  One takes a very short boat ride across a canal and from there it is by horse and buggy.  The sights are mainly ancient temples and structures ruined by time.  This, of course, gives them a majestic look that is hard to duplicate in the newer temples.  We felt we were truly out of the city, the countryside was beautiful and quite serene.  That is except for all the  other horse and buggy carts plying the same few dirt roads.  We actually got caught in a horse and buggy traffic jam!!  Now that's a first.
     In one of our few night time adventures we went to see the Moustache Brothers.  Though now there is only one main brother in the act, they were Myanmar's version of the Marx Brothers.  That is until they parodied the Myanmar military generals in a performance before Aung San Suu Kyi where they refused to temper their humor, even though they knew they were in the spotlight.  Two of the brothers did 7 years hard labor as a result.  Despite the recent death of one of the founding brothers, Lu Maw still delivers an energetic show of slapstick, of which we could understand about 60%.  His wife and sister perform traditional dance and are quite good.  All Western audience for sure, but it is a family affair and one has to respect the fact that they go at it with gusto.
     In the nearby town of Amarapura one finds the longest teak footbridge in the world (1300 yards).  But people don't go to see the bridge, they go to see the sunset.  It was such the scene.  A mix of people that was hard to fathom.  From Buddhist priests to tribal women, tons of locals, and a scattering of Westerners.  Watching the crowd watch the sunset over the river was just plain fascinating.  It was one of the things in Mandalay I would definitely repeat.
     On Wednesday morning we caught a very short flight from Mandalay to Inle Lake, actually the culmination of the Myanmar part of the trip.  One stays in a town, Nyaungshwe, which is not on the lake but connected by canal.  It's kind of a funky town, but I like it.  Not too big, a good selection of restaurants, yet a real example of Myanmar life.  Most of the livelihood comes from fishing, farming and tourists.  We have taken two boat trips and well may do another one tomorrow, our last day here at the lake.  There have been interesting sights, mainly in the small village of Inthein.  The canals that lead into the village are fascinating.  People living in stilt borne houses, some bird and animal life; the guy in the book compares it to the river ride in Apocolyse Now.  I wouldn't go that far, but it did get our attention in a very positive way.  One climbs up a hill outside the village that is the location of 1054 ancient stupas from the 17th and 18th century.  A grouping like this is always fascinating, from the individual stupa to taking in the scene as a whole.  Some of them have been restored, some not.  There is no question that we found the ones that were nearing shambles as the most interesting.  Loved this spot and the little village, and would return for sure.
     Allow me to talk about one other place that we have visited which is located about 1 1/2 hours out of Nyaungshwe.  When one goes to places you hear about you really don't know what to expect.  We had read about this cave that held many Buddhas.  Well lord knows we have seen a ton of Buddhas and pagodas, so we were torn as to whether to go or not.  So glad we did.  The Shwe Oo Min Natural Cave and Pagoda was mind blowing.  One enters this cave (not low key, a giant spider sculpture greets the visitor, apparently to appease the spiders that got displaced when the Pagoda was built) and is astounded by Buddhas of every size, shape and material imaginable.  One starts out in an area called the maze, and they mean that literally.  You wind from one path to another just to find yourself at a dead end.  Once you pass through the maze you go deep into the cave with Buddhas located in every nook and cranny.  This is juxtaposed with the natural stalagmites and stalactites that are eye catching in themselves.  Quite the sight for the eye.  To add interest the Buddhas are "sponsored" by groups or individuals from all over the world.  They are adding new ones continuously.  Actually most of the ones we saw had been added since 2000.  I think that is due to the fact that Myanmar  has been so much more "open" since then.  I know if I was connected to a Buddhist sect in the U.S., that is one thing I would strive for.  Have a Bhudda with a plaque of recognition in the Shwe Oo Min Cave.  It would make a statement to someone, somewhere!
     So two more days in Myanmar.  On Tuesday (your Monday) we fly back to Yangon for the day, then the next morning head to Cambodia.  I have some general observations that I would like to make about the country, but they will wait until the next entry.  There is one thing on my mind that I would like to share.  My good friend since 8th grade, Dave Kuhn, who married my cousin, just got out of the hospital but is still in rough shape.  I want to send him the best of wishes and let him know he is in my thoughts.
     The three of us are healthy, happy, mostly inspired, and having a fabulous trip.     JB
   




   

Cruising the River and Climbing the Hill

     Have you had that experience where you have to wake up really early, say 4 a.m., and you wake at 1 a.m. wide awake, finally get back to sleep, and are wiped out when 4 a.m. actually rolls around?  Well that was me Saturday morning (your Friday night).  We seemed to wake up the hotel desk person, had to have him call the cab we thought we had already arranged, and set out for the Ayeyarwady River jetty.  We had booked the "Express" River Boat from Bagan to Mandalay not knowing whether we had made a mistake by choosing 12 hours on the river vs 4-1/2 hours on the bus.  Well we didn't.  We left the jetty (the boarding was accomplished by scrambling up a couple of planks) in pitch dark.  As we looked around we realized there were only 7 passengers.  It was freezing.  At least on Myanmar standards.  The first thing the crew did was give us a blanket.  As we realized how few of us there were, we immediately hit the blanket stash for more warmth.  This continued for about 1-1/2 hours until we were greeted by a spectacular sunrise.  Everyone's mood picked up, we got some so-so coffee, a bun and a hard boiled egg.  From there the trip up the river was such a pleasure.  An incredible variety of river vessels, life along the shore, and the calming, constant hum of the engine.  The day passed so much quicker than we expected and before we knew it we were in Mandalay.
     Mandalay is large city and large cities can be difficult for many reasons.  Disorientation at first, not knowing your way around, feeling lost in the confusion.  Well that just didn't seem to happen.  Because of my reading about the high season and the lack of traveler's
infrastructure here, Cynthia and I decided months ago that it would be best to book our hotels ahead of time.  That meant planning the trip. Most people we knew who had gone to Myanmar had gone on pre -planned booked trips.  We didn't want to do that.  We knew we had 28 days so we got out a calendar and basically laid out our schedule.  Not the way I like to travel, but it seemed prudent for the Myanmar part of the journey.  Well one of  the upsides of doing that is arriving in a strange city and knowing exactly where you are going.  Frankly I had never done that before.  When one is traveling cheap, as I had always done in the past, everything seemed spontaneous.  This trip is certainly more upscale than I have done before and it has its advantages.  Like arriving at the hotel after 12 hours on the river and being presented with a wet cold towl and a refreshing glass of juice!!  Are you kidding me?  After checking out the overpriced rooftop hotel restaurant we crossed the street and had a good meal.  Yes!
     Our first day in Mandalay was spent going up Mandalay Hill.  Seemed like a good place to begin, get a perspective of the city.  As we all know the journey itself is oft times more important than the destination.  Well this journey took us up 1729 steps!!  No, I didn't count them, the book had forwarned us.  Made going up to our place in Paxanax (for those of you who don't know we have 146 stair steps, and that is once one gets to our entrance!) seems like a piece of cake.  But what a slice of life.  Of course there is a temple at the top, and an uncountalbe number of Buddhas on the way up, but it's like a village.  People live on these stairs, sell there wares, take care of their kids.  It's a total slice.  I will say I used one of the scariest toilets I have seen in my life, and believe me that is saying something.  Anyway, a leisurely 2-1/2 hours later and we were at the top.  The temple stood out because of, well its guaudiness.  Lights and mirrors.  Some dazzling effects actually.  We looked at the overview of the city, did the rounds and found our way down.  Not as easy as one might expect as the twists and turns were numerous.  Did we come up this way or that way?  It might not have mattered except for the fact that one does it barefoot and we had to come out at the right place in order to retrieve our shoes.
      Next we checked out the largest book in the world.  But that will have to wait for the next entry.  We have been here two full days.  Today was a trip for sure but that will also have to wait.  Know that we are healthy, having fun, and thrilled to be here.            JB

Balloons over Bagan

    I wake up to the unmistakeable sound of a hot air balloon being filled with, well hot air.  I know it is 6:55 a.m. and I am in Bagan.  I look out our hotel window and see no less than 10 balloons slowly rising and drifting by.  Huge I might add, as our room is apparently very close to the launching site.  I marvel at the wonder of it, and consider it my wake up call.  Of course we would love to do it, see all the temples in the morning light, still, calm, only the sound of whoosh as the burners refill the balloon.  I get out my Myanmar book to read up on it.  Sounds great until I get to the price.  $350 for an hour.  Nope.  Guess I will find another way to enjoy the temples of Bagan.
     And we did.  The two main ways to cover the vast area on which the 4,727 temples of Bagan reside is by electric scooter and horse and buggy.  The ladies did both, I stuck with the scooter.  I have never really seen another sight like Bagan.  Between 1,000 a.d. and 1,300 a.d., while Europe was blinded by the Dark Ages, Myanmar was creating spectacular things.  Temples that literally boggle the mind.  They are laid out in an area perhaps 10 miles square, all with conical steeples that rise to varying heights.  The insides, due to the passage of time, are for the most part barren, though they have their Buddhas and what is left of the intricate frescos that used to cover the walls.  They vary in size from small structures, maybe 20 feet high, to giant ones that one can see from miles away.  The ones I loved could be climbed by steep staircases, giving one a 360 degree view of the vast complex.  Temple after temple greet the eye.  Hardly any other type of structure sullies the sight.  Fields of sand separate the temples.  A sight to behold.
     But the temples do not come without a price, and I don't mean financial.  At all the main temples, and many of the minor ones, one is bombarded by vendors selling their wares.  Cynthia and I are used to this, living in a tourist destination in Guatemala.  But there the people keep their space and take no for an immediate answer.  Not in Bagan.  One can be followed, made to feel somewhat guilty if you don't buy, given the feeling of no escape.  It did color our experience, no doubt about it.  One either approaches it with a desire to buy, or with blinders on heading immediately to the door of the temple.  It didn't by any means ruin the experience, but it did make it less pleasant than it could have been.
     I did love the scooter.  Reminded me of my motor cycle days which have, for the most part, passed me by.  It allowed me to get to some of the more remote areas and enjoy the solitude.  The two ladies were going to ride as well but Kathy wiped out on the first try (she hadn't ridden before and it does require a knack), so we went two up and Cyn rode solo.  The next day Cyn and Kathy went by horse and buggy.  Kathy only got a few scrapes but I could tell it bugged her to the point she wanted to get back on, but the opportunity did not allow.
     For us the scene changed in Bagan.  Tons of tourists.  At least on Myanamar standards.  We even got pizza!!!  But it was a slice and I have no regrets about making it one of our destinations.  We left this morning on a river boat which pulled away from the dock, in the dark, at 5:20 a.m.  But that's for the next installment.  Right now we are all happy, healthy and glad to be here.                 JB

Car Trip and Monkey Time

      This evening finds us well after a day exploring the ancient temples of Bagan.  But to digress. We made the decison to come north via car, and then fly back south to Yangon at the end of our stay.  So we had a two day road trip from Yangon to Bagan.  The trip was through mostly flat, and very rural, farm land.  We saw the critical rice paddies, teak forests, watermelon fields, rubber trees, and sugar cane.  Myanmar does feed itself, and not a tractor in sight.  Most of the  fields are being worked by human labor and brahma bulls.  Soe, our driver, called them working cows.  Actually they are beautiful animals, distinguished by the large hump that defines their neck.
     The small villages we passed through were very basic with much of the population living in very austere conditions.  This is not surprising as the same housing is found in most rural third world locations. The roadside restaurants we stopped at had limited menus and were surprised to have western clients.  Usually there were no menus and often it was "would you like fried chicken or chicken curry".  Not Thai curry but a bit blander mix of chicken and rice.  Now that said, they always bring at least six small side dishes that embellish the chicken dish.  We, of course, had no idea what they were so it was trial and error.  Also at these restaurants Soe, our driver, felt comfortable eating the way he is used to, with his hands.  Chop sticks and traditonal, for us, silverware were also available.
     The trip went smoothly for the most part.  We did sit along side of the road for an hour while Soe fixed the horn.  The horn was an absolute critical part of his driving.  He beeped it every time he passed anything, and any time we were passed.  So when it went out he was bummed.  Much fiddling and help from passers by got the job done.  Whew!!!!  Another thing that stood out was passing a Hindu festival where they do incredible body piercing.  I had experienced one in Malaysia years ago and have never forgotten it.  The men go into trance like states and get their bodies pierced with hooks of all different sizes.  When removed by the priest, no blood.  Though we only saw the happenings through the car window it definitely got our attention.  The whole scene was wild and bizarre.  We barely made it through the throngs of people.  We finally arrived in Bagan late, after dark,  which I hate.  Arriving in a strange place at night just sucks.  No feel for the place and hard to get one's bearings.  We did have a hotel reservation so our destination was clear, but after a long day little else was.
     Our first day in Bagan was our last day with Soe.  We had made the decison before to hire him for an extra day in order to visit Mt Popa, about two hours out of Bagan.  It is the premier place for Nat worship (I'm afraid you are going to have to look it up).  Mt Popa is actually a village, but it is home to Popa Taung Kalat, a volcanic plug that juts up out of the ground 2,400 feet.  Of course on top of that is a temple, accessed by 777 steps.  The entire place was quite the scene.  Throngs of people, mostly Burmese, with a smattering of tourists from all over the place.  We climbed the 777 steps, accompanied the entire way by the large population of monkeys who make the temple their residence.  Ones first impression is "oh aren't they cute", but by the end one is in agreement with the locals who fight them off with sling shots.  Talking aggressive!!  We saw a monk with a bunch of bananas feeding them and they were literally jumping on his back!  (Never forget the time in India when they stole Callie's underwear off the clothes line.)  Anyway, we got up the steps like 50 year olds and really found the entire scene fascinating.
     So the next blog will actually be about Bagan.  On Saturday, Friday to you, we'll be on a riverboat to Mandalay.  More soon.  Again, the three of us are healthy, happy and having a great time.                          JB

Buddhist Temples

There is no doubt that if one is experiencing Myanmar (for the record, that's meanmar, we had been prouncing it wrong, mYanmar) then you go to temples.  It's so much a part of the culture.  Mostly, though not exclusively, Buddhist temples.  So one sees literally thousands of replicas of the Buddha.  Sitting, reclining, always smiling, androgynous, with lipstick that is bright and ranges in color.  I wouldn''t call it idol worship, but it's close.  One thing that does stand out to me is the difference between the Christian idol, Jesus Christ, and the Buddha.  The image of Christ that is put forth is grim to say the least.  Jesus on a cross, nails in his hands and feet, a look of pain and anguish on his face.  Contrast that to Buddha. Smiling, lip stick on, sometimes reclining in an extremely sensual pose.  Now I am not knocking Christianity.  It is just an observation.  Actually my understanding is that  the philosophy of Buddha is that there will be pain and sufferring in life.  It is inevitable.  But rather than Jesus suffering for mankinds sins, the Buddha says go in to your mind to relieve that suffering.  That is where salvation is.

     So we have been on a temple tour, among other things of course.  A few highlights.  The Golden Rock.  This is a huge rock precariously balanced on a the side of a mountain.  By all rights it seems that that rock should just tumble down.  On top of the rock sits a small Buddhist Temple.  An entire village has been created around the rock.  One gets up there in the back of a truck, about a 40 minute ride.  No other way.  People are crammed in to the max and since it is a pilgramage sight (everyone must go in their lifetime) there is no lack of attendees.  The truck will not go until it is stuffed.  I felt much more cramped than I do on a United flight, and that is saying something.  A bit more trivia about the rock.  It is said that a hair of the Buddha is what keeps it from falling.  They also say that one can pass a string underneat the entire rock.  Being a skeptic, well what can I say.  

     Another Temple that did blow me away was the Kawgun Caves.  It is an incredible rock formation that does form a cave.  But the outstanding thing are the literally thousands of small Buddhas that have been carved and attaced to the walls.  They go up to dizzying heights at mind boggling angles.  How on earth did they do that?  Inside the cave are an array of Buddhas in various poses.  This cave was located in the middle of no where.  If one were busing it, it would be an entire days adventure to experience it.   Who and why it was created I have no idea.  

     After returning from the South we spent one more quick night in Yangon, then headed North.  After a mostly interesting two day road trip we have arrived in Bagan.  This area is famous for its vast array of ancient temples and is one of the most visited sights in Myanmar.  So the scene has changed a bit.  More on the ride here and Bagan in the next post.  

     Know that we are all healthy and loving being on the road.                JB

We are now  back in Yangon after doing our Sourthern most part of the trip.  But more about that later.  We are getting to understand Myanmar a bit more, and that means getting to know the people.  One great source of information has been our driver Soe.  He is University educated, has decent English, and drives a cab tourist service for a living.  As mentioned, we initially met him randomly as his number came up as we were finding a cab from the airport to the city.  

     Things seem to be getting gradually better for the people of Myanmar.  Their freedom to do everything from making a living as they chose, to accessing news and the internet have changed drastically.  Ten years ago there was no internet in Myanmar.  It was blocked by the military government.  Telephones, though available, were priced prohibitively and only the most wealthy could afford them.  As a result most of the population was insulated from the outside world, and though they were aware of that fact, there was little they could do about it.

       There is no doubt that the people credit Aung San Suu Kyi with being the catalyst for change.  Her name comes up a lot and they seem quite proud that she is currently a member of the legislature.  The fact that her sons are not living in Myanmar is the reason given for her not being able to run for president.  There are reports that there are moves to change the law but, of course, the military is afraid of her popularity.  Meanwhile it is such a good thing that the people have a national hero, who has definitely been a catalyst for change.

     While on the roads, and we have been on quite a few so far, there is no police or military presence.  No traffic cops, no military roadblocks, nothing.  Now take that in contrast to Guatemala where military roadblocks are a reality of life.  Here it just seems that everyone is going about there business with a decent respect for their fellow countryman.  Not what I expected.

     One final observation.  Our President Obama came here in November and it clearly made a huge impression.  Soe could not talk about his visit enough.  How he refused to go to the new capitol (not Yangon) because he wanted to meet with Aung San Suu Kyi.  The military leader apparently capitulated and came to Yangon instead.  While in this very humble restaurant in Malamalyine the proprieter asked Soe where we were from.  He said America.  She looked at us, smiled, and said "Obama"!

     I had lost, but have now recovered, my external key board.  I promise the blogs will come more regularly.  We are definitely having a great trip.  Tomorrow early we begin our journey North.  

     Our second full day in Yangon.  It turns out that once a year the Sule Paya, the temple next to our hotel, has a holy festival once a year where they chant for 10 days, 24 hours a day.  Luckily we caught the last day of it.  3 a.m. has returned to the 3 a.m. one would expect.  Relative quiet!  

     I can not say enough about the friendliness of the Myanmar people.  This is one country where being a Westerner is still a novelty.  Especially Cynthia with her blond hair.  Today we went to the People's Park.  Several times goups of young women came up to us and asked us to pose in their photograph with them.  It is a novelty to be a novelty.  I remember that feeling in other countries, even Mexico, but that was 35 years ago.  Kind of fun actually.

     We visited the Shwedagon Paya today.  It is the most revered pagoda in Myanmar, arguably in all of S.E. Asia.  It was completely fascinating.  Not only the Temple(s) themselves but the actions of the people.  Where it cost us $8 to enter it is free for the people of Myanmar.  They come not to be tourists, as we experienced big time in Thailand, but to BE there.  They spread out their lunch in the shady spots, come with their families, pray, and respect the Buddhas.  It is relaxed, there are certainly a lot of people, but not near oppressive.  Gold, Buddhas, and the people of Myanmar rule the day.  I left feeling uplifted with a calm.  

     There are now three of us traveelling together and sharing the experience.  Cynthia and I, of course, and my friend for over 35 years, Kathy Wilson.  A fellow jeweler who is experiencing Asia for the first time.  The three of us have an easy presence together and three is a good number.  One more day to experince Yangon, then we hit the perverbial road.  Loving it all right now.      JB

     

    This morning finds us in Yangon.  Quite the change on all fronts.  Though  right next door, Myanmar so far, seems more like India than Thailand.  Lungees are the dress of the men.  A long wrap  around piece of fabric, more like a long skirt than anything else.  Our hotel is basic.  It kind of reminds me of my grandfathers living room on the farm.  Clutter dominates.  We are right next to the Sule Pagodda.  Good and bad.  We have a fabulous view of it out our window, though the angle isn't quite right.  Main down side is the chanting.  24 hours a day with no let up.  It comes out over what must be giant speakers as the volume is intense.  Sleeping pills, pillows over the head, tp in my ears.  Still not really a solution.  I am trying to relate to it as a meditation.  Goes between that and a nightmare.
     We have signed up with the driver of the cab from the airport to take us on the next leg of the journey.  That starts Monday.  Maybe a little impulsive but we liked him.  Call it providence.  Meanwhile more about Yangon in the next entry.  Kathy, Cynthia and JB are fine and thrilled to be here.                 JB
   
   

     Pretty much over the jet lag and into the full swing.  We lost a day in the process, but hey, we'll get it back eventually.  It has  been over 20 years since I have done Bangkok and it feels like a new experience.  I am absolutely blown away by how many travelers, of all ilks, are here.  Thousands of them.  Even though I have seen it three times before the Recling Bhudda at Watt Po is still a sight to be seen.  And I do love the Chao Phraya River.  It is literally the life blood of Bangkok.  The variety, design and style of the River Boats is nothing short of amazing.
     Then there is the night life.  I don't think there is anything quite like it.  All stops pulled.  Of course at my age there aren't that many stops to pull!  We have hooked up with our long time friends Ron and Celiane Dunetz who are on their way to Katmandu.  So we are 5.  A crowd.  But a fun one.  One more full day and off to Yangon.  More soon.     JB
   

The Last Time I Flew to Bangkok

I remember the last time I flew to Bangkok.  Late 1992.  Cynthia and I were just becoming an item.  Our first trip together, though our good and dear friend Callie was along for the ride.  A couple of memories that mark the passage of time.  The food on the flight was fantastic.  Had a menu and the whole bit.  I had a fish dinner accompanied by a complimentary glass of wine.  That was tempered by the smoke that wafted up from the smoking section of the plane.  Upon arriving in Bangkok I was astounded at the traffic, and the pollution.  Almost 2 hours to get the relatively short distance to the city from the airport.   For two or three days we had to fight to adjust to the time change.  Basically exactly the opposite of the States.  9 o'clock was really pushing it.  (reminds me of my current life in Santa Cruz!)

So here we are ready to depart.  I am excited, but in a muted sort of way.  I am not sure if that comes under the "kicks just keep getting harder to find" category, or because I am a firm believer in "Be Here Now".  The next entry will find me in a total and complete different state.  Physically and mentally I am sure.  Though I live in a country foreign to the one I have lived in most of my life, I am ready for that jolt that comes with travel.  Especially, for me, Third World Travel.