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Sunday, October 16, 2022

Cappadocia Escapades

Cappadocia Panorama, Turkey

      Antalya is a very large city.  A bit intimidating at first.  We pretty much stayed in the old part of the city, which made things more manageable.  As mentioned, we didn’t love our hotel, but it did have location, location.  The first day got us a bit frustrated, to say the least.  We have been in the take-it-as-it-comes mode for almost the entire trip, but a bit of low point loomed as we tried to ply the streets of Kaleici (Old Town Antalya).  Lonely Planet gave a walking trip that we usually like to follow.  We had great luck with it in Istanbul.  Well, trying to follow any kind of walking tour description in Kaleici is a formula for frustration.  Streets not on a grid, no street signs, and even our Google Maps seemed confused.  

Mosque, Old Town, Antalya

     Finally, we just gave it up and walked where the wind took us.  No question Antalya is a popular place.  Actually for good reason, as it hugs the Mediterranean, is very hip, and definitely has a history.  

On the second day in Antalya we wanted to visit the Antayla Museum, which got great reviews.  To get there we wanted to take the tram.  Wanting to, and actually doing it for the first time, are two different things.  We had an idea of what we needed to do, but damn if we could find the tram stop.  Finally we had success and a couple of locals, who liked Cynthia, helped us get the required tram pass.  In our experience the the tram is a great way to see any city.  Antalya was no exception.  The streets were vibrant, many of the stores totally upscale, parks along the way, and the last stop was the museum.  That made it easy.  


Roman Heads, Antalya Museum

As mentioned in previous blogs, the museum scene in Turkey is totally together.  They have so much to draw upon, and they do it so well.  The Antayla museum has an amazing collection of large Roman sculptures, which have been some of our favorites the entire time in Turkey.  Cynthia’s photos will show examples.  


Apollo, Antalya Museum


Urn, 5th-4th Century B.C., Antalya Museum

     We had a rather amusing experience while there.  It seemed we had the museum almost entirely to ourselves.  Then we heard an announcement that a play was going to begin in the theatre.  We had no idea what this related to.  Soon we saw a sign indicating we were in the theater.  It seemed to be a part of the museum, as the displays were much like what we had been seeing.  We stood around and waited, very few people.  Then we heard the children.  Before we knew it we were surrounded by at least 50 school children.  The teachers directed them to sit in an orderly fashion on the floor, which gave us the first indication of where the performance was going to take place.  A door to an adjoining room opened and actors, in costumes that mimicked the Roman sculptures displayed in that part of the museum, slowly emerged and took positions among the sculptures.  

Sculptures and Actors, Antalya Museum

     The play began.  All in Turkish, of course, but easy to follow.  The leader has a musical contest, he chooses a winner, the loser gets pissed, puts a curse on the leader, who then grows donkey ears.  Now he is the buffoon of the group and they all make fun of him.  Of course it has a happy ending and all the children leave with a smile on their face.  Cynthia and I exited the museum not far behind, feeling we had a wonderful museum experience.  You can view a short video of a portion of the play here:  https://photos.app.goo.gl/Q4mLtdNkhFzfpYRi9  Due to a technical problem, you will have to reload the blog after viewing the video.


Frankly, I don’t think we really gave Antalya the attention it deserved, but both Cynthia and I were ready to move on.  We had done the Old Town, and just didn’t have the will to push much beyond that.  


Our final destination before returning to Istanbul for the flight back to the U.S. was Cappadocia.  In our pre-trip research we considered this to be the potential highlight of the trip.  We weren’t disappointed.  The drive from Antalya to Cappadocia was the longest we had on the entire trip.  Most of it was over flat, rather boring, scenery.  That certainly ended when we arrived in Goreme.  


Rose Valley, Cappadocia, Turkey

     The place is known for its bizarre rock formations formed millions of year ago by the erosion of the rather soft volcanic tuff.  Humans began making caves in the rock to live in thousands of years ago.  

Cappadocia Cave Living, Turkey

Cave Church, Cappadocia, Turkey

     What it is also known for are the underground cities built by the Christians in the 3rd century.  They were definitely a place of refuge as they were being heavily persecuted at the time.  We went into one of the cave cities that went down seven stories!  It was fascinating, but an extreme physical challenge at the same time.  Try bending over (maximum height 4 feet in most passages) in a narrow tunnel while going up some 85 not well cut stairs.  And one couldn’t see shit.  I’m glad I experienced it, but wouldn’t give it a go again.  


JB in an Underground City Refuge, Cappadocia, Turkey

Underground City Refuge, Cappadocia, Turkey

As I have relied on so many times in this blog, Cynthia’s photos can give a much better idea of what we saw in Cappadocia than my writing can.  There was so much variety, from what they call the fairy chimneys (Cynthia thought they were totally phallic) to castles built on huge rock mounds.  


Fairy Chimneys, Cappadocia, Turkey

     It is incredible that people lived in these rock caves, but supposedly the first humans did so from the sixth century BC onward.  


Fairy Chimneys, Cappadocia, Turkey

     Goreme, the main town that people stay in, was a bit of a trip itself.  Hotels and restaurants galore.  Almost every hotel had the word cave incorporated into their name.  Ours was the Aren Cave Hotel and it was by far our favorite of the entire trip.  


Our "cave" room, Aren Cave Hotel, Goreme, Cappadocia, Turkey

     Unfortunately, there are some downsides caused by the hordes of tourists that come to experience Cappadocia.  Mainly the ATV’s.  There are hundreds of them for rent.  They are getting a bad rap from the locals, for good cause.  We personally didn’t experience many as the season is winding down.  Still, a horde of ATV’s racing by is the last thing one wants to see in a spectacular and peaceful place like Cappadocia. 


Cave Church, Cappadocia, Turkey

There would be an argument that one can’t leave Turkey without seeing the Whirling Dervish Ceremony.  On the last night in Goreme we did just that.  It is correct to call it a ceremony rather than a dance.  There is no question the impetus behind the concept is religious devotion.  


The Dervishes Preparing to Whirl

     How these men sustained the twirling motion without falling on their faces is a miracle.  But then I have seen other religious inspired acts that defy human capabilities, like the Thaipusam festival that I witnessed in Indonesia.  Serious body piercing with no blood.  There is an entire ritual to the Dervish Ceremony that includes music, a type of chanting, respect to the different participants, and then the twirling itself.  Though photography was not allowed during the ceremony itself, they did a brief presentation at the end where Cynthia was able to capture a few photos and a video.  Pretty impressive I must say.  You can view a short video of the Dervishes Whirling here:   

https://photos.app.goo.gl/czyyG1vZbpVoHFbf7

Due to a technical problem, you will have to reload the blog after viewing the video.


The Dervishes Whirling

When we leave a country I like to give general observations of the country, or countries we have visited.  I have to say our overall impression of Turkey is extremely positive.  When traveling, and not speaking the language, one doesn’t totally understand the political winds and how they are blowing.  I know that Turkey’s leader, Recep Tayyip Erdoğan, is right wing and not terribly popular in the West.  But how does that play out in the lives of the Turkish people?  Of course I have a limited view, but this is what I have seen.  The Turkish people are industrious, out and about, and doing what they want with few restrictions.  There was very little police presence.  On the highways we never saw what is common in Guatemala, military road blocks.  There just wasn’t a feeling of the people being watched or controlled.  Virtually no military presence.  A few traffic police, but that’s about it.  


Kadikoy Market, Istanbul

     The infrastructure of the country is excellent.  The roads were every bit as good as the States, sometimes better.  No trash problems.  They keep a clean scene.  Safety never seemed to be a worrying factor.  The people are out and about and not once did we feel intimidated.  It is a culture that likes to be on the streets.  It is a Muslim country, the call to prayer is evident several times a day, but I must say I never witnessed people rushing to the mosques.  The women were dressed in varied styles.  It went from full burkas (rare), to regular western street clothes.  Again I want to emphasize that this is from a tourist’s viewpoint.  I’m sure I don’t get the full picture, but still, I am totally impressed with Turkey as a country. 


Kadikoy Market, Istanbul    

     To fully enjoy Turkey and what it has to offer, one must be in decent physical shape.  There is a lot of walking to be done and places like Cappadocia demand both strength and flexibility.  In the States many of the places we visited would be a law suit waiting to happen.  The variety in the country is enviable.  There is so much to experience and see.  From the Roman ruins, to the marvelous Mediterranean, to physical phenomenons one will never see elsewhere.  Add to that good food, friendly people, Raki, an amazing history and a safe place to travel, and it is hard to beat. 


Turkish Coffee and Baklava

     The trip back to the States was not a piece of cake.  It could be more exhausting than any part of the actual travel in Turkey.  Nine hour time difference, the dreaded Frankfort airport, the body trying to make sense of it all.  We are back in the States, however, and glowing with the memories of the trip.  After the dreaded covid it was so good to get back to traveling to unknown places.  By the way, the mask thing is done for the most part.  Has covid disappeared?  No.  But for whatever reason people are choosing to get out like they used to.  So far so good for Cynthia and I on that front.

  

Again, thank you for reading the blog and we’ll catch you next time. 

    

Hagia Sophia at Night, Istanbul, Turkey

Monday, October 3, 2022

Blue Water, a Little Jewelry, and Jumping Kaş

Panorama of Kaş, Turkey

  
     It seems the nature of our trip has changed.  Not for the better or worse, just different.  We have moved from the ruins to the water.  It started on the road.  The drive between Pamukkale and Fethiye was a beautiful drive through the mountains, which we hadn’t encountered yet.  We are not talking the Alps here, but beautiful pine covered slopes that were fun to drive through.  It was the first time that both Cynthia and I said, “Now this would be fun on a motorcycle.”  As I am sure many of you have experienced when traveling, arriving in a new destination is a challenge.  One doesn’t want to let first impressions control as they are often colored by confusion, quick judgements, and getting it wrong.  Fethiye fit that bill.  Google maps took us on an obscure route to be sure, and we were often in back street neighborhoods.  Then the traffic was a bitch, in contrast to the previous 4 hours in which we saw a car every 1/2 hour.  Ok, enough bitching.  

View from our Balcony, Fethiye, Turkey

     This was the first AirBnB that we stayed in.  The apartment was large, with a balcony that overlooked the Fethiye harbor.  Hot tub and all.  Not too shabby.  Fethiye is definitely yacht city.  There were hundreds of them, including a few that looked as though they were owned by the Russian oligarchs.  The town has a natural harbor which is ideal for mooring in calm waters.  There were many yachts that were “on the hook”, out in the middle of the bay, thus avoiding any docking fees.  Of course they had to have a dingy, many of which totally outdid our simple Lake Atitlan boat, Cynthia Kate.  One observation that I really liked was that at least 75%, if not more, of the boats were of the sailing variety.  


Sailboats at Fetihye Harbor

     I always thought that made more of a sport out of the yacht thing.  One more observation, then I’ll leave the boats behind (maybe not entirely).  There seems to be a lot of hanging going on.  On our subsequent boat trips, brief description later, we saw many yachts in deserted places looking as though they were in no hurry to go anywhere.  Exactly what does one do with their time?  Not sure but you better keep the booze under control!


Ruins of Kayakoy, Turkey

We had gotten a tip from some fellow travelers to visit the ruins of Kayakoy.  Now as those of you who have read previous blogs know, we are usually talking ruins of 2 or 3 thousand years ago.  Not in this case.  These are ruins of a village abandoned 100 years ago.  Frankly, not only did they not have the history, but they didn’t have the class either.  It turns out that after the Turkish War of Independence in 1923, the League of Nations orchestrated an exchange of populations.  The Greek Muslims went to Turkey, and the Ottoman Christians went to Greece.  We’ve seen that before.  India, with Pakistan and Bangladesh, comes to mind.  Anyway, there were more Christians leaving than Muslims coming so this town ended up completely abandoned.  


Ruins of Kayakoy, Turkey

     The setting was nice, the buildings were all basically the same, and one needed the footing of a mountain goat to traverse the paths.  Still it was worth a 1/2 day, though it didn’t blow us away.  Cynthia’s photos will give you an idea.  


One of the things tourists do in Fethiye is take what is called the 12 Island Tour.  Well we weren’t sure what that meant, but we got on Trip Advisor and found an outfit called Rastapus Boat Tours.  This seemed like an easy alternative to the 4 day trips that are popular.  Besides, anything named Rastapus has to be mellow.  And it was.  


Rastapus, Fethiye, Turkey

     The captain was a Turkish Bob Marley, totally laid back.  He had been a Telecom technician and gave it up for the leisurely life.  He said, what do I want, money or quality time.  He chose the latter.  We only had seven paying customers on the boat.  In addition were the three man crew, and the true boss, the captain’s mother.  We had a great day.  Basically one goes from bay to bay, anchors, and then you hang for maybe an hour.  Swimming in the clear cool waters of the Mediterranean was a total joy.  


Mediterranean Cove, Fethiye, Turkey

     Then on one of the stops they made a lunch that was truly superb.  Ten different items.  All delicious.  Did I mention alcohol?  Despite the many choices, Cynthia and I got through the entire day with one Efes beer each.  Oh, we would make such good sailors!


After three nights it was time to move on.  Our next destination was the small seaside town called Kaş.  Actually pronounced Cash.  


Kaş, Turkey

     What a great place.  Touristy for sure, but the narrow pedestrian-only streets, and the beautiful setting, make it a pleasure.  Cynthia went jewelry shopping when we found a store that had some funk.  She got a hollowed out basket shaped pair of silver earrings, and a ring we both thought was so imaginative.  


Jewelry Shopping!  Kaş, Turkey

Frankly, it is often me that is shopping jewelry, but not this time.  Well, not exactly.  The next night I went back and bought a silver bracelet that I didn’t want to resist.   


The next day we decided to take advantage of our car.  By the way, I am so glad we have it.  It has expanded our horizons on this trip so much.  


Thank you Ms. Peugeot!

     There was a small village, Üçağiz, about an 1-1/2 hour drive from Kas.  It was known for an ancient castle and an underwater city.  


                                                                Kekova Castle                                      

     Of course one goes by boat.  For $70 we got a boat and captain all to ourselves.  It was again great to get out on the waters of the Mediterranean and experience some of the clearest waters imaginable.  We swam off the boat, and by the way it is still hot here, and loved it.  The sunken city wasn’t much to see, but who cared.  They have banned any kind of diving around the underwater ruins, and frankly that would be about the only way to see them.  Bottom line, we had a great scenic drive, a fun boat trip, a refreshing swim, and all of it spur of the moment without a plan.  Can’t beat it.


        Sunken City, Kekova Island, Turkey

                                                Sunken City, Kekova Island, Turkey

The night life in Kaş is definitely happening.  The restaurants, at least the ones with the buzz, were packed.  Many Turks for sure, but also we could hear German and a plentiful amount of Brits.  As we were walking the streets, we stumbled upon an unlikely place called the Old House Shot Bar.  Cynthia’s photo will describe it.  We have found a taste for Raki, an anise based liquor that is reminiscent of Sambuca or Pastis.  After a simple pide dinner we couldn’t resist giving the Old House a try.  


Old House Shot Bar, Kaş, Turkey

     As we were standing in front, no seating, another couple ambled up.  The man ordered this exotic shot that had at least 8 different ingredients, all in a large shot glass, but a shot glass none the less.  We couldn’t help but admire the artistry of the bar tender, nor could we not comment to the couple.  It turned out they were Russian.  Previously, from afore mentioned boat captain, we had heard that business was down because of the war.  Apparently the Russians and the Ukrainians liked to vacation in Turkey,  but they had virtually stopped coming.  Somehow our conversation turned political.  I said from a human aspect it was such a bitch that this war had happened.  I also said I didn’t understand the reasons that had caused it.  They looked at each other, then us, and said, “Putin”.  They were obviously upset about it, and said they had no choice but to return to Russia tomorrow.  They were not happy about it.  A brief, but telling, conversation. As we parted, we toasted to health and peace.


The drive from Kaş to Antayla had long stretches where the road hugged the Mediterranean.  Steep cliffs on one side, with the highway cutting into the mountain, the shining sea on the other.  We decided to check out a small place called Çirali, which we had read about.  We thought we could get lucky and repeat our experience that we had in Üçağiz.  Well, think again.  The winding small road reached the beach alright, but once there the road was so small a car could hardly fit.  But that didn’t stop the hordes of beach goers that were hoteling and camping on the narrow passage.  It just wasn’t our scene and we literally got to the end of the road, turned around, and headed back to the main highway.  


Hadrian's Gate, Antalya, Turkey

     Our arrival in Antalya was also an experience.  We knew we were staying in the Old City, which is a good thing.  Finding one's way on the narrow streets with virtually no street signs, is another.  Google maps came through and we finally found our hotel.  Great location, mediocre room.  I have to say that we have not been impressed with the hotels we have stayed at in Turkey.  Not horrible by any means, but not memorable either.  We have been paying between $45 and $80 a night.  We like AirBnb’s, but when we looked they didn’t seem that impressive either.  Oh well, if that is the only complaint we have on this trip we are very lucky people.  More on our time in Antayla in the next blog.  


     We move on in another couple of days.  We only have one more destination, plus another 2 nights in Istanbul, before returning to the States.  The road has been good to us.  Catch us in the next blog.  And as always, thanks for reading.  


A Cat in My Hat!  Antalya, Turkey