9/27/16
It has been 28 years since I was in Nepal. It was on my first trip to Asia, also combined with India, with the thrust being a twenty day trek in the Annapurna Range of the Himalaya. I must say that Katmandu is still a mind blow, though it is not without serious problems. One is the destruction laid by the massive earthquake they experienced in April of 2015, the other is the intense traffic and pollution. I don’t mean to start out on a negative note as I think Nepal, and specifically the Katmandu Valley, are a great visit.
We made the decision to stay out of the main tourist area of Thamel and found a hotel in the area of one of the most famous Buddhist stupas, Boudhanath. It is a 1/2 hour to 1 hour taxi ride from the main part of Katmandu, depending on traffic. Boudhanath is the largest stupa in Asia and is immediately recognizable by the eyes of Buddha that I always associate with Nepal.
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| Buddha's Eyes |
I remember them making a definite impression on me when I visited on that first trip. Because of the earthquake it now has a total different impression. The stupa is covered with tarps and scaffolding and the signature eyes are not visible at all. The surrounding scene, the village-like ambiance, the many monks, the distinct smell of incense, the sound of chanting as the stupa is circumnavigated, the trays of multiple candles that bring magic to the night, are still in full force.
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| Monks Lighting Devotion Candles Boudhanath Stupa, Nepal |
But the Buddha’s eyes are missing. The report is that the stupa only suffered minor damage and will be fully repaired, but we are 1-1/2 years past the earthquake and work is still proceeding. There is a major festival in November and they hope to have the restoration done by then.
That said, it is still a wonderful place to visit. When one goes onto the street outside the main area of the stupa one can’t miss the stark difference. Traffic is heavy, dust is ever invasive, and there is a cacophony of noise. Walk through the main entrance and it is a different world. It really is like a little village.
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| Around Boudhanath Stupa Boudhanath, Nepal |
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| Tibetan Woman Burning Incense Boudhanath Stupa, Nepal |
The stupa takes the main stage in the middle and little shops and restaurants line the outer circle. The inner circle has a short wall that has prayer wheels spinning from the many Buddhist pilgrims who have come to pay respects. I did read that it is one of the only places remaining where true Tibetan Buddhism still flourishes. This is our home while in Kathmandu.
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| Boudhanath Stupa Monk Boudhanath, Nepal |
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| Women Singing Boudhanath, Nepal |
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| Pampered Pigeons Boudhanath Stupa, Nepal |
Yesterday we took a taxi to the central part of Kathmandu. We spent the entire day walking the streets of Thamel district, then followed the Lonely Planet walking map down to Durbar Square. Durbar means palace. (Kathmandu has one of the most famous palace complexes, but by no means the only one.) There were several things that made for a totally fascinating walk. The narrow streets are a saving grace. Mostly pedestrians with a few motor bikes and almost no cars. They just won’t fit. Shops selling everything imaginable are candy for the eye, some fascinating, some part of the inevitable repetition that seems to plague areas that cater to tourists.
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| Street Scene in Old Kathmandu, Nepal |
Again the people are as interesting as anything. The women with their outrageously colorful clothes (often saris), multi-pierced ears and nose, and mysterious air (to me) are out in throngs. An occasional Hindu sadu (holy man) will pass by with his painted face, long hair and staff in hand. One can’t go more than 25 yards without coming upon a shrine or stupa. They are literally everywhere. Many of these are probably five or six hundred years old, yet are used as a display for merchants selling their wares. Some of the more fascinating shrines we never would have found if not for the book. The entrance can be through a stall selling clothing, barely visible, yet once inside what one finds is totally fascinating.
Durbar Square itself was well worth the visit, but the earthquake definitely left its shaking reality known. Damage everywhere. Piles of bricks from 800 year old shrines still haphazardly lay about. The government is going about the business of repairing most of them, but the original glory has definitely taken a hit. We visited the palace and many religious shrines and it is so easy to get taken back to a time long ago. I do like the fact that places that were reserved for the very privileged few are now open to all. Yes, the left leaning hippy coming out in me. There is a poetry to that.
Ironically one of the buildings that did not get damaged extensively is the home of the Kumari Devi. She is, in fact, a living goddess and maybe that is why! Her story is certainly bizarre. A young girl is selected through a very rigorous process and is believed to be the manifestation of the divine female energy. She is cloistered in the Kumari house (which is very near the palace) with her family and is only allowed out during special festivals. Each day at a certain time she makes an appearance from one of the windows of the house, and silently blesses those that gathered outside. Her reign can be begin as young as 4 years old. When she menstruates for the first time it is believed that her “holy spirit” has ascended and she returns to normal life. Another Kumari Devi is then chosen. Though there has been a back lash against this practice, calling it child abuse, a Nepali court has actually sanctioned the practice. I Googled her and found that past Kumaris seemed to relish the time of their reign, though they had a hard time letting it go and passing into a “normal” life.
No doubt the old city is what fascinates the most. The streets are jammed but one sees very few tourists. It is the Nepalese going about their daily routine. A close inspection of the goods for sale can be confusing as sometimes we couldn’t identify what the item was. Other times we knew what we were looking at, but couldn’t figure what it was for. Large bundles of yak hair in both black and white? A wig? For spinning? Stuffing for a pillow? Religious ceremonies?
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| Yak Tail Hair |
It was interesting to see how the items for sale changed as we moved from the tourist area of Thamel (which still has tons of locals) to the absolute packed streets of Old Katmandu. Out was the jewelry, the trekking gear, the singing bowls, and in was the spice shops, the sari selection, and even what we would call in Guatemala the Paca shops (selling second run American style clothing). Yes, it is a mind blowing stroll but also an exhausting one. By the time Cynthia and I returned to our room we were, yes, wasted!
9/28/16
Today we hired a taxi ($35 for the day) and visited the other two most well known Durbars in the Katmandu Valley. Bhaktapur and Patan. I must say that if I visit Katmandu again I will definitely reserve a couple of days to stay in Bhaktapur. The Durbar Square is interesting, and there are many shrines and stupas that are fascinating to see. But more than that the village itself is so intriguing. One can stroll the streets and find a very interesting scene, but without the chaos that goes with central Katmandu. The streets are narrow, hardly any cars, plenty of things to see and fondle, and everyone was friendly and low key.
One temple caught our eye. I must admit it was not the temple itself that stood out (though it was not too shabby), but the goats that perpetually hang out in front of it. They are literally the temple goats. No one owns them, they don't wander far from the temple, and the locals feed them. What I assume was the male goat had the oddest goat face I have ever seen. Hard to describe, but it wouldn't win a goat beauty contest!
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| Bhaktapur, Nepal |
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| "Goat" Temple Bhaktapur, Nepal |
We did hire a guide here which we usually say a firm NO to. It turned out worth while as he took us into the neighborhoods that we never would have seen, that were severely affected by the earthquake. It seemed that people were making do, but barely. “Temporary” housing seemed to be the norm, and who the hell knows how long “temporary” will last. I didn’t sense any “poor me” attitude, just that life had taken a huge left turn and they were dealing with it.
Probably one of the more interesting things we saw in Patan (the ancient stupas and shrines were exceedingly interesting, but we had seen several by this time) was an exhibit and sale of art work to raise money in order to bring attention to, and bring an effort to end, exploitation and sexual abuse against women. This is certainly cutting edge in Nepal and it struck a cord with Cynthia and I. Not only that, we really liked most of the paintings (all originals) that had been donated. So after viewing the excellent museum we went back to the exhibition and bought a painting. We are both eager to get it home and framed, a worthy addition to the art work we have collected on our travels. Should you want to get a few more details on this ground-breaking movement in Nepal, here is their website. www.xposenepal.org.np
Tomorrow we leave for Pokhara. We are going to take a bus for the 7-hour journey. We want to see the country side and we are in no hurry. With luck, weather being right, we will be able to get up close and personal to the reason that most travelers come to Nepal. The Himalayas!
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| Machhapuchhare 6,997m / 22,956 ft. Annapurna Range, Nepal |
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