Monks, Lakes and Mountain Tops

9/21/16

     Living on one of the most beautiful lakes in the world (Lago Atitlan), we couldn’t pass up the opportunity to visit another lake famous for its beauty.  Pangong Tso.  Tso means "lake" in Ladhaki.  One has a choice of doing the 11 hour round trip journey in one day, or spending the night in one of the tent villages that are available lakeside.  Given the altitude and our previous experience, we opted to do the trip in one day.  

Pangong Tso
Ladakh, India

We left at 7 in the morning and proceeded to do switch back city once again.  The drive was indeed beautiful, somewhat similar to the mountain scenes we had witnessed in Spiti.  One has to go over the third highest road pass in the world, and the pass is the home, per their sign, of the highest restaurant in the world.  It was a mud hut with limited fair (we didn’t eat there) but hey, it had its claim to fame.  

      When we arrived at the lake we were indeed shocked by the beauty.  The surrounding mountains, which tower over the lake, have a multi-colored sand look.  

Buddhist Temple, Pangong Tso
Ladakh, India

The lake itself radiates with color. The blue hues are deep and clear.  It is probably the closest either Cynthia or I will get to China.  The lake is some 100 miles long and 1/3 of it is in China.  As we looked off into the distance we could see the mountain peaks that were definitely across the border. 

     As a result of its proximity to China, the Indian Army has a predominant presence in the area.  There were several army camps (imagine being stationed for the long haul at 15,000 ft and calling a dark tent home!!) seemingly strategically placed as we made our way to the lake. (Train Hard, Fight Easy).  Cynthia and I had tea and momos (a type of steamed dumpling, a Tibetan specialty), walked the shoreline, and joined the other tourists (mostly Indian) take in the majestic scene.  Though a long day, we both felt that it had been worth the effort.

The Pose
Pangong Tso, Ladakh, India

9/22/16

     Today was another festival day.  I just can’t express how lucky we were to be in Leh at this auspicious time.  The courtyard of the Chowkhang Gompa Monastery was the setting for the dramatic performance that unfolded.  

Chowkhang Gompa Monk Musicians,
Leh, Ladakh, India

Monk Musicians, Chowkhang Gompa  - Leh, Ladakh, India

The monks of the monastery have a ritual of putting on a masked “dance” performance once a year.  It is famous to the people of Leh, but usually happens in the winter when few outsiders are present.  The Festival asked the monks if they would be willing to do their ritual during the Ladakh Festival and they agreed.  

Masked Dancer, Chowkhang Gompa  - Leh, Ladakh, India

As has been the pattern the dances themselves are somewhat simple.  It is the masks and costumes that make it so interesting.  One would never guess that monks were the performers if it weren’t for the orange robes peeking below the elaborate costumes.  

Masked Dancer, Chowkhang Gompa - Leh, Ladakh, India

It was thoroughly entertaining, and though the religious significance behind the performance was not exactly apparent to us, it was not to be missed.  Again, Cynthia’s photos can give a much better idea of the monks transformation than the written word.

As with all of the performances we have witnessed so far, the attendees deserve special mention.  Especially the “old” women who come with their elaborate earrings and prayer beads that continually rotate in their fingers.  They come in force and seem in rapture at the performances.  

Three Friends
Ladakh Festival
Leh, Ladakh, India

It is worth a quick mention that Cynthia and I experienced our first ever polo match. It seemed a bit incongruous with the rest of the festival, but it was a sanctioned part of the program.  Several times Cynthia and I had to leap out of the way of the flying hoofs as their were no clear boundaries between field and spectator.  Didn’t quite get the rules but they seemed simple enough.  Smack the ball through the goal!

Flying Hooves!
Ladakh Festival Polo Match
Leh, Ladakh, India

9/23/16

     Since we had been to the 2nd and 3rd highest road pass in the world, how could we not go to the highest, Khardung La.  Today we did just that.  18,380 ft!!  To put that in some perspective, that is about the altitude of the Mt. Everest base camp, the highest mountain in the Rockies is some 14,000 ft, and the volcanoes that Cynthia and I look at every day top out at 12,000 ft.  

From Khardung La
Ladakh, India

On the way up one has incredible views of the whole valley that cradles the city of Leh.  Mountain ranges are visible that have multiple snow covered peaks.  There is a sign at the highest point that advises one not to stay more than 20 minutes as it is bad for your health.  Though Cynthia and I felt decently acclimated to the altitude, a light head was definitely present.  We took some photos to prove that we had been there, experienced the wind blowing the ever present prayer flags, took a pee to leave our mark, and got out of there only overstaying our allowed time by 10 minutes.  

Next time I experience that altitude in will be in an airplane!!

JB at Khardung La
Ladakh, India

     The afternoon saw the closing ceremony for the Festival.  It was in the main bazaar area in the heart of Leh.  To their credit what they call the main bazaar is a large area that is pedestrian only.  No cars or motorbikes (tuk tuks are sadly missing from the entire city).  We got there early and were able to score good seat locations.  Good thing as the festivities started late and ended late.  Many of the performances were the same, or similar, to the ones we had seen at the opening ceremony.  Certainly not a bad thing as we just couldn’t get enough of the pageantry.     

Flowers in her hair

A couple of interesting asides.  The stage was set up right in front of the mosque that is one of the book ends for the main bazaar.  It makes for a beautiful scene.  Well as mentioned the performances went late.  Right in the middle of one of the dances the Muslim call to prayer came blaring over the mosque’s loud speakers.  The dance did not stop, but as it ended everyone just patiently waited until silence prevailed.  The ceremony then began again.  

     The final performance of the festival was a total surprise.  The eloquent woman who had been doing all the English announcing during the festival said it was with the gracious cooperation of the “powers that be” that they were able to have the next most auspicious and famous group perform.  Out came a Ladakhi version of a rock and roll band.  There were synthesizer, drums, bass, and guitar.  The two main players were vocalists and they sang songs which many in the crowd seemed familiar with.  The elderly lady sitting next to me, braided and dressed in her long traditional Tibetan robes and elaborate jewelry, smiled and nodded through most of the performance.  Cynthia and I were definitely shocked when they broke into a version of “Hotel California”.  You know what?  It wasn't bad!!  And so ended our wonderful experience of the Ladakh Festival.  If any of the readers are inclined to make their way to Leh, I highly recommend having it coincide with the festival.

     Tomorrow brings major change.  Our time in India is up and we are headed to Nepal and Kathmandu.  Our next blog will be devoted to our Nepalese experience.