Tradition, Falls, Fort and Mr. Style

     The blogs are behind.  I actually have a lot written, and Cynthia has some fabulous photos, but we have been in the boonies and there just has not been internet.  Since Cynthia and I don't believe in making a blog too long we are dividing it up.  So, next time we have internet there will be another blog.  Know that today, 9/15/16 all is well and we are headed to the high passes (over 18,000 ft !)

9/5/16

     As any culture that has been conquered or exiled can attest (Mayan, Hmong, American Indian, Tibetan) it is difficult to keep the old traditions alive.  The young tend to get assimilated into the world of the conquerer through many different means.  Some are brutal (ie the Chinese in Tibet), some are much more subtle, but just as effective.  The Tibetans are now struggling with this very real reality.  The refugees who were born in Tibet and knew of the culture first hand are becoming more of a rarity.  As related in the last blog, even the Tibetans still living in Tibet are having a very difficult time maintaining the traditional ways.  

Norbulingka Institute 
near Dharamsala, Himachal Pradesh  

Stupa at Norbulingka Institute

This was exemplified by our visit to the Norbulingka Institute, whose mission is to teach, revere, and maintain aspects of the Tibetan culture, particularly traditional Tibetan Arts.  There were many appealing things about the Institute.  Physically they have done a splendid job.  Water features appear through out, from ponds with Koi, to waterfalls making prayer wheels continue their perpetual motion.  A combination of lush gardens and interesting architecture make the setting a mesmerizing place to leisurely stroll about.   Perhaps more important, one can visit the various artists who are being trained in the ancient arts.  Woodcarving, Thanka painting, metal working, carpet weaving and Thanka appliqué.  

Thanka Painter, Norbulingka Institute

Wood Carver, Norbulingka Institute

Many of these apprenticeships are intensive three or four year programs.  The hope, of course, is that through these teachings an integral part of the Tibetan Arts will be maintained into the future.  Though unrelated to the cultural and artistic side of this endeavor, it is self sustaining.  The institute, through its guest house, restaurant and gift shop not only pay for itself but generate enough income to help other endeavors whose mission it is to maintain the Tibetan way.  Quite impressive I must say.  

      Though Cynthia and I are somewhat of a rarity (American, blond and bald) in the parts of India we are traveling in, we are by no means the only tourists.  The Indians like to travel their country and McLeod Ganj is a destination.  Besides the Tibetan complex there are other interesting sites to see.  One is the Bhagsu Waterfall.  The actual fall itself is like many others we have all seen.  Not huge, but the falling flow of water is mesmerizing and always an attraction.  

Bhagsu Waterfall
Bhagsu, Himachal Pradesh

      What made this place interesting was immersing oneself in the Indian tourist scene.  From the small town of Bhagsu one follows a 1 km path up to the falls.   On the way one encounters families having lunch by the river, young men and women discarding their traditional dress for jeans, shirts and blouses (and actually holding hands!), tons of selfies, at least 1/2 dozen requests of Cynthia and I to be in their photos, several invitations to be friends on Facebook, goats looking for handouts, and oh yes, some beautiful views of the falls and the valley into which it tumbles.  We got down just as the rain began, grabbed a cab back to McLeod, and felt we had had a worthwhile adventure.  

    

9/6/16

      Mentioned in Lonely Planet and highly recommended by a local, we did a day trip to the Kangra Fort.  As is sometimes the case, the history of the fort was more interesting than the fort itself.  The setting is certainly beautiful.  It was built at the confluence of two rives, better for defense and for growing the food necessary to support the life of the occupants. 

Main Square with 400 year old tree
Kangra Fort, Kangra, Himachal Pradesh

     This fort is the oldest one in India, dating back to some 1,500 BC.  Amazing enough it basically remained in the same family through the centuries.  Its history is one of wars.  Time after time invading forces tried to capture the fort, including Alexander the Great in the third century BC.  Defending it was apparently a full time job.  There were several gruesome tales connected to these battles, including the skinning alive of one of the conquerers when the family recaptured it, many of which are outlined in the small museum attached to the fort.  In the end, mother nature proved to be stronger than all the other adversaries.  In 1905 there was a devastating earthquake in the region.  It destroyed much of the structure, including the many storied inner sanctuary of the royal family. 

Kangra Fort before 1905 earthquake

     Interesting enough once the English left in 1947 the fort was given back to the original family.  They run it as a tourist attraction among there many other enterprises.  On the wall of the family museum they trace their lineage back to well before the fort was built in 1,500 BC.  Jeez, I can hardly go back more than two generations!!

       Now I don’t mean to be obsessed by the monkeys, but lets face it, if you are from the States or Europe you don’t know shit about monkey business.  We saw a trace of them in Manali but here in McLeod Ganj they are front and center.  Where Cynthia and I are staying there is a dining terrace that is in front of our “valley view” window.  Actually it is the only thing about our room that we don’t like.  We would be better off on an upper floor, which we couldn’t get.  So be it.  So this early evening we are having our 6 o’clock beer and were somewhat startled when suddenly a monkey did Mr Acrobat on the railing right outside of our room.  Well that led us to watching the scene unfold.  A male monkey, big (Cynthia said to me “did you see the testicles on that guy”?) decided to perch on the table where two monks had just eaten. 

Mr. Style

     He posed, then posed some more.  Soon he was joined by three females and five baby monkeys.  They all just played and scampered about as the Main Man just took in the scene.  Ok, we have the Main Man, three wives, and a bunch of kids.  I think this guy adheres to the old ways in that he believes in keeping a harem!  Or maybe he’s Mormon?

     

9/8/16

     Our change of plans is definite and today finds us back in Manali.  As mentioned, there are only two overland routes that access Leh, Ladakh.  One leaves from Srinagar, Kashmir and the other from Manali, Himachal Pradesh.  Our desire to go to Kashmir was foiled.  The political situation in Kashmir has not gotten better.  I have no regrets, partly because I think it would have been extremely restrictive there, and partly because we are excited about the alternative.  In regard to Kashmir they had a bust of a “summit” meeting on the 4th.  The separatists refused to meet, two more young men were killed in the demonstrations, and it just doesn’t seem to be getting better.  Although the curfew has been lifted in many places, movement is still restricted. Stores, gas stations and schools are closed, and it flat out just didn’t seem to be a good idea to go.  End of that story.