Pokhara, the Moto, and the Grand Finale

9/30/16

     Ahhh Pokhara, how you have grown.  In 1988 it was a small town that mainly serviced trekkers that were here to set off into the mountains, specifically in and around the Annapurna range of the Himalaya. There were hotels and restaurants, but mainly the back packer type.  I think my friend Ron Dunetz and I paid like, $3 a night.  Nothing hinting at being upscale.  It is not surprising that this has changed.  Not only is Pokhara so well situated in terms of the BIG mountains, but it sits on the very lovely Lake Phewa.  Lake Phewa is the second largest lake in Nepal, but even with that it is not huge.  The river valley that feeds it is, but the lake itself retains a calm demeanor most of the time.  One interesting factoid is that no motor boats are allowed on the lake.  All transportation is by canoe shaped boats with a flat bottom, or even paddle boats for the tourist.  

Boat with Peaking Pagoda
Lake Phewa, Pokhara, Nepal

There are many houses on surrounding hillsides that have no road access.  The lake is their road (much like the village where Cynthia and I live in Guatemala) but they have no choice but to row or paddle wherever they may be bound.  Rough if you have forgotten that dozen eggs!

     Cynthia and I came here with no plan.  It was good to relax and see what unfolded.  Getting out on the lake seemed like a no brainer, and after doing a bit of reading it became apparent that we could accomplish two things in one journey.  In the 90’s a Japanese Buddhist group completed a Peace Pagoda (stupa) high on the very top of the “hill” overlooking the lake and Pokhara.  

Peace Pagoda
Pokhara, Nepal

One can get close to it by road; but a more interesting, and heart building, way is to go by boat, then climb to the pagoda.  Cynthia and I did just that.  At the trail head a sign says it’s a 45 minute climb up the trail.  Two hours later Cynthia and I arrived.  Not that it beat us up, but we took our time, had tea, looked at the flora and fauna, and just enjoyed ourselves.  The view from the top was wonderful.  Unfortunately we were too late to see the huge Annapurna range, off in the not too far distance, as the inevitable clouds had moved in to obscure it.  Still, definitely worth the climb.  No doubt it is the closest thing to a trek on our agenda for this trip!

     In the afternoon we moved on to the very excellent International Mountain Museum.  The facility is huge, and of course dedicated to the most majestic mountain range on the planet, the Himalayas.  The museum had exhibits on everything from the different tribal people that inhabit them to the problem Mt Everest is having with garbage (sound familiar?)  Actually the museum was so large that it was almost intimidating.  I got a bit weighed down in the geology section, but perked up again when reading about the feats of some of the climbers.  

     When I was at the Annapurna Base Camp there was no where else to go but up with a technical climb.  As I stood on one of the ridges and heard the winds howl and the avalanches growl, I realized I had no desire to be a mountain climber.  “Because it is there” just didn’t do it for me.  But seeing how these monsters were formed, how amazing they are in terms of size on a global sense, and how men and women can turn a suicide mission into a sport was pretty fascinating.  

10/1/16

     

     I love riding motorcycles.  In India, in the out of the way places we were traveling, we saw so many groups and individuals have an ultimate adventure on those torturous roads.  Yet the bug just didn’t hit me.  Conditions too severe, weather too severe, the bikes not really right for the long haul gear wise.  No such thing as a hard pack, everything was tied on with a plastic sheet trying to protect it from the elements.  So finally in Pokhara it seemed that the time was right.  Cynthia and I rented a 350 cc Royal Enfield, the rather classic bike of choice here.  The idea was to ride to the Sarangkot overlook to experience the jaw dropping view of the large Annapurna range.  The guides and agencies push doing this for sunrise.  We were going to go early, but we planned on still being in bed at sunrise!  The day before we had seen a clear sky and good mountain views from our room, then saw the clouds move in as the day became later.  Somehow we thought this would be the pattern.  Wrong.  The first thing I did when we got up was to look out our window to see it totally clouded in.  Rats!  We decided to go for anyway, hoping the clouds would take a hint and move on.  

     I had partially scoped out the route the day before and thought I knew it.  Wrong again!  I missed the turn, and we ran into totally strange territory in the middle of Old Pokhara.  As I was struggling along, trying to make a decision as to where to go, what do we run into but a parade!  

Parade
Old Pokhara, Nepal

And a long one.  Masks, music, a float and dancers passed us by.  Now usually Cynthia and I would be totally up for this.  But please, not now!  The clouds were clearing and we wanted so much to reach our destination.  Finally I asked a fellow motorcyclist how to get to Sarangkot.  He said, “follow me”.  What a guy!  We were weaving and winding and guess what?  We ran into the parade again!  So we watched it for the second time.  

Goddess for a day
Old Pokhara, Nepal

After several other miss starts we finally did make it to the overlook.  The mountains were incredible though the clouds obscured them enough not to give us a clear view of the entire range.  Kind of foiled, kind of successful.  

      One side note.  Pokhara is literally famous for its paragliding.  Lonely Planet states that it is one of the best spots on the planet to give it a go.  Well the launching spot is from the side of the mountain in Sarangkot.  Cynthia and I were astounded at how many gliders were taking off.  At one point I would say we could count fifty of them in the sky.  

Paragliders' Paradise
Sarangkot, Nepal

And that continued most of the day!  For $85 you could get a 20 minute ride that you would never forget.  For $115 you could stretch that to 45 minutes.  The lake and entire valley would be in view.  If you caught a thermal and the clouds were right one could see the mountain range as well.  Cynthia had the urge to do it, but she needed some time to build up to it and we just didn’t have it.  I certainly gave her credit for even considering it!

     Since we had been semi-foiled on the morning’s excursion we had heard about a spot where two lakes lay side by side, and the report was that it was beautiful.  We decided to give it a try.  The ride on the main road was no fun, but miraculously Cynthia spotted our turn off about 30 minutes out of town.  We were not disappointed.  A very quiet road in great shape took us to an overlook of the lakes that was spectacular. 

Lake Rupa, Nepal

No honking horns, no traffic, no tourists (except us), no one trying to sell us anything.  It was great and worth the effort to get there, and back again.  

     On the way we saw an interesting phenomenon.  There was a herd of goats close to the road with lots of people stopped to check them out.  At first I thought it was tourists fascinated by the scene.  We decided to stop and take it in ourselves.  Next thing we saw was a goat being muscled into the back of an SUV.  Then we saw one being crammed into the trunk of a car.  What’s up with this?  

Goats for Sale
Pokhara, Nepal

Cynthia thought maybe it was a goat sale so they could introduce new stock to their herd.  Stop the inner breeding.  Well come to find out a big holiday is coming and having goat meat is the tradition.  Apparently Pokhara is famous for their goat sales and people come from all over the region to sell and to purchase their goats for their holiday feast.  No wonder the goats were putting up such a fight!!!

     

10/2/16

     Well tonight we are tripping the light fantastic.  This evening is our last night in Pokhara.  So we indulged.  Today I tripped out on the moto while Cynthia went to the spa for the full treatment.  We both got what we wanted.  I got a ride where there was no traffic, beautiful scenery, a local flavor, and a sense of fulfillment.  Cynthia got a pedicure, a full body scrub and a facial.  When all that was complete we went lakeside and indulged in a couple of beers accompanied by a peanut sadeko.  As those who know me are aware, I have a jones for peanuts. (One of the few snacks that are relatively few on the evil carbs).  Well here they make a peanut mix with a variety of spices and vegetables.  Spicy and heavenly.  We watched the people go by, saw the sun set over the lake, and fully appreciated how lucky we are.  

      When darkness set in and the thunder began we made our way to our favorite restaurant here in Pokhara.  Moondance.  This restaurant could be a hit in any hip community in the States.   Service is beyond good, and the food imaginative and excellent.  We accompanied our dinners with a pitcher of mojitos (dangerous) and finished it all off by splitting a piece of their “famous” lemon meringue pie.  What the hell more could we want?  Just for the record, after a tasty salad, entree for the both of us, the exquisite pitcher of ecstasy, and the heavily pie, a bit less than $50 including tip.  For Nepal that is an indulgence, in the States it is getting to be a salad, a burger and maybe a beer.  Again, the value is here.  

     Our adventure is nearing an end.  Tomorrow we head back to Kathmandu to spend two nights.  Oh, and no bus, this time we fly!  All of 25 minutes as opposed to the seven hours on the bus. (You have to love a country that has national airlines with the names “Yeti Airlines” and “Buddha Air”).  

Our Yeti
Pokhara, Nepal

Then the twilight zone begins as we fly from Kathmandu, to Delhi, to Newark, to Detroit.  I think we gain back that illusive day somewhere in there.  

10/5/16

     We are now in the Delhi airport with our eleven hour layover.  Yes, you heard that right, eleven hours!  They won’t let us in the main departure lounge until 3 hours before the flight.  So here we are in the waiting-for-the-departure-lounge lounge.  Not exactly cush but we are making do.  I like to relate some final reflections on the trip, but now is not the time.  In a sentence, it couldn’t have been better.  That is unless Kashmir had found a way to peace which, as I write, seems as far away as ever.  Know that Cynthia and I are happy, healthy and so glad we had this  “Great Adventure”.

Temple Monkey
Kathmandu, Nepal

   

     

The Stupas and those Fascinating Streets

9/27/16

     It has been 28 years since I was in Nepal.  It was on my first trip to Asia, also combined with India, with the thrust being a twenty day trek in the Annapurna Range of the Himalaya.  I must say that Katmandu is still a mind blow, though it is not without serious problems.  One is the destruction laid by the massive earthquake they experienced in April of 2015, the other is the intense traffic and pollution.  I don’t mean to start out on a negative note as I think Nepal, and specifically the Katmandu Valley, are a great visit.  

      We made the decision to stay out of the main tourist area of Thamel and found a hotel in the area of one of the most famous Buddhist stupas, Boudhanath.  It is a 1/2 hour to 1 hour taxi ride from the main part of Katmandu, depending on traffic.  Boudhanath is the largest stupa in Asia and is immediately recognizable by the eyes of Buddha that I always associate with Nepal.  

Buddha's Eyes

I remember them making a definite impression on me when I visited on that first trip.  Because of the earthquake it now has a total different impression.  The stupa is covered with tarps and scaffolding and the signature eyes are not visible at all.  The surrounding scene, the village-like ambiance, the many monks, the distinct smell of incense, the sound of chanting as the stupa is circumnavigated, the trays of multiple candles that bring magic to the night, are still in full force.  

Monks Lighting Devotion Candles
Boudhanath Stupa, Nepal

But the Buddha’s eyes are missing.  The report is that the stupa only suffered minor damage and will be fully repaired, but we are 1-1/2 years past the earthquake and work is still proceeding.  There is a major festival in November and they hope to have the restoration done by then.  

     That said, it is still a wonderful place to visit.  When one goes onto the street outside the main area of the stupa one can’t miss the stark difference.  Traffic is heavy, dust is ever invasive, and there is a cacophony of noise.  Walk through the main entrance and it is a different world.  It really is like a little village.  

Around Boudhanath Stupa
Boudhanath, Nepal

Tibetan Woman Burning Incense
Boudhanath Stupa, Nepal

The stupa takes the main stage in the middle and little shops and restaurants line the outer circle.  The inner circle has a short wall that has prayer wheels spinning from the many Buddhist pilgrims who have come to pay respects.  I did read that it is one of the only places remaining where true Tibetan Buddhism still flourishes.  This is our home while in Kathmandu.

Boudhanath Stupa Monk
Boudhanath, Nepal

Women Singing
Boudhanath, Nepal

Pampered Pigeons
Boudhanath Stupa, Nepal

     Yesterday we took a taxi to the central part of Kathmandu.  We spent the entire day walking the streets of Thamel district, then followed the Lonely Planet walking map down to Durbar Square.  Durbar means palace.  (Kathmandu has one of the most famous palace complexes, but by no means the only one.)  There were several things that made for a totally fascinating walk.  The narrow streets are a saving grace.  Mostly pedestrians with a few motor bikes and almost no cars.  They just won’t fit.  Shops selling everything imaginable are candy for the eye, some fascinating, some part of the inevitable repetition that seems to plague areas that cater to tourists.  

Street Scene in Old Kathmandu, Nepal

Again the people are as interesting as anything.  The women with their outrageously colorful clothes (often saris), multi-pierced ears and nose, and mysterious air (to me) are out in throngs.  An occasional Hindu sadu (holy man) will pass by with his painted face, long hair and staff in hand.  One can’t go more than 25 yards without coming upon a shrine or stupa.  They are literally everywhere.  Many of these are probably five or six hundred years old, yet are used as a display for merchants selling their wares.  Some of the more fascinating shrines we never would have found if not for the book.  The entrance can be through a stall selling clothing, barely visible, yet once inside what one finds is totally fascinating.  

     Durbar Square itself was well worth the visit, but the earthquake definitely left its shaking reality known.  Damage everywhere.  Piles of bricks from 800 year old shrines still haphazardly lay about.  The government is going about the business of repairing most of them, but the original glory has definitely taken a hit.  We visited the palace and many religious shrines and it is so easy to get taken back to a time long ago.  I do like the fact that places that were reserved for the very privileged few are now open to all.  Yes, the left leaning hippy coming out in me.  There is a poetry to that.  

     Ironically one of the buildings that did not get damaged extensively is the home of the Kumari Devi.  She is, in fact, a living goddess and maybe that is why!  Her story is certainly bizarre.  A young girl is selected through a very rigorous process and is believed to be the manifestation of the divine female energy.  She is cloistered in the Kumari house (which is very near the palace) with her family and is only allowed out during special festivals.  Each day at a certain time she makes an appearance from one of the windows of the house, and silently blesses those that gathered outside.  Her reign can be begin as young as 4 years old.  When she menstruates for the first time it is believed that her “holy spirit” has ascended and she returns to normal life.  Another Kumari Devi is then chosen.  Though there has been a back lash against this practice, calling it child abuse, a Nepali court has actually sanctioned the practice.  I Googled her and found that past Kumaris seemed to relish the time of their reign, though they had a hard time letting it go and passing into a “normal” life.  

     No doubt the old city is what fascinates the most.  The streets are jammed but one sees very few tourists.  It is the Nepalese going about their daily routine.  A close inspection of the goods for sale can be confusing as sometimes we couldn’t identify what the item was.  Other times we knew what we were looking at, but couldn’t figure what it was for.  Large bundles of yak hair in both black and white?  A wig? For spinning? Stuffing for a pillow? Religious ceremonies?  

Yak Tail Hair

     It was interesting to see how the items for sale changed as we moved from the tourist area of Thamel (which still has tons of locals) to the absolute packed streets of Old Katmandu.  Out was the jewelry, the trekking gear, the singing bowls, and in was the spice shops, the sari selection, and even what we would call in Guatemala the Paca shops (selling second run American style clothing).  Yes, it is a mind blowing stroll but also an exhausting one.  By the time Cynthia and I returned to our room we were, yes, wasted!

9/28/16

     Today we hired a taxi ($35 for the day) and visited the other two most well known Durbars in the Katmandu Valley.  Bhaktapur and Patan.  I must say that if I visit Katmandu again I will definitely reserve a couple of days to stay in Bhaktapur.  The Durbar Square is interesting, and there are many shrines and stupas that are fascinating to see.  But more than that the village itself is so intriguing.  One can stroll the streets and find a very interesting scene, but without the chaos that goes with central Katmandu.  The streets are narrow, hardly any cars, plenty of things to see and fondle, and everyone was friendly and low key.  

      One temple caught our eye.  I must admit it was not the temple itself that stood out (though it was not too shabby), but the goats that perpetually hang out in front of it.  They are literally the temple goats.  No one owns them, they don't wander far from the temple, and the locals feed them.  What I assume was the male goat had the oddest goat face I have ever seen.  Hard to describe, but it wouldn't win a goat beauty contest!

Bhaktapur, Nepal

"Goat" Temple
Bhaktapur, Nepal

      We did hire a guide here which we usually say a firm NO to.  It turned out worth while as he took us into the neighborhoods that we never would have seen, that were severely affected by the earthquake.  It seemed that people were making do, but barely.  “Temporary” housing seemed to be the norm, and who the hell knows how long “temporary” will last.  I didn’t sense any “poor me” attitude, just that life had taken a huge left turn and they were dealing with it.  

     Probably one of the more interesting things we saw in Patan (the ancient stupas and shrines were exceedingly interesting, but we had seen several by this time) was an exhibit and sale of art work to raise money in order to bring attention to, and bring an effort to end, exploitation and sexual abuse against women.   This is certainly cutting edge in Nepal and it struck a cord with Cynthia and I.  Not only that, we really liked most of the paintings (all originals) that had been donated.  So after viewing the excellent museum we went back to the exhibition and bought a painting.  We are both eager to get it home and framed, a worthy addition to the art work we have collected on our travels.  Should you want to get a few more details on this ground-breaking movement in Nepal, here is their website.   www.xposenepal.org.np

     Tomorrow we leave for Pokhara.  We are going to take a bus for the 7-hour journey.  We want to see the country side and we are in no hurry.  With luck, weather being right, we will be able to get up close and personal to the reason that most travelers come to Nepal.  The Himalayas!

Machhapuchhare
6,997m /  22,956 ft.
Annapurna Range, Nepal

Monks, Lakes and Mountain Tops

9/21/16

     Living on one of the most beautiful lakes in the world (Lago Atitlan), we couldn’t pass up the opportunity to visit another lake famous for its beauty.  Pangong Tso.  Tso means "lake" in Ladhaki.  One has a choice of doing the 11 hour round trip journey in one day, or spending the night in one of the tent villages that are available lakeside.  Given the altitude and our previous experience, we opted to do the trip in one day.  

Pangong Tso
Ladakh, India

We left at 7 in the morning and proceeded to do switch back city once again.  The drive was indeed beautiful, somewhat similar to the mountain scenes we had witnessed in Spiti.  One has to go over the third highest road pass in the world, and the pass is the home, per their sign, of the highest restaurant in the world.  It was a mud hut with limited fair (we didn’t eat there) but hey, it had its claim to fame.  

      When we arrived at the lake we were indeed shocked by the beauty.  The surrounding mountains, which tower over the lake, have a multi-colored sand look.  

Buddhist Temple, Pangong Tso
Ladakh, India

The lake itself radiates with color. The blue hues are deep and clear.  It is probably the closest either Cynthia or I will get to China.  The lake is some 100 miles long and 1/3 of it is in China.  As we looked off into the distance we could see the mountain peaks that were definitely across the border. 

     As a result of its proximity to China, the Indian Army has a predominant presence in the area.  There were several army camps (imagine being stationed for the long haul at 15,000 ft and calling a dark tent home!!) seemingly strategically placed as we made our way to the lake. (Train Hard, Fight Easy).  Cynthia and I had tea and momos (a type of steamed dumpling, a Tibetan specialty), walked the shoreline, and joined the other tourists (mostly Indian) take in the majestic scene.  Though a long day, we both felt that it had been worth the effort.

The Pose
Pangong Tso, Ladakh, India

9/22/16

     Today was another festival day.  I just can’t express how lucky we were to be in Leh at this auspicious time.  The courtyard of the Chowkhang Gompa Monastery was the setting for the dramatic performance that unfolded.  

Chowkhang Gompa Monk Musicians,
Leh, Ladakh, India

Monk Musicians, Chowkhang Gompa  - Leh, Ladakh, India

The monks of the monastery have a ritual of putting on a masked “dance” performance once a year.  It is famous to the people of Leh, but usually happens in the winter when few outsiders are present.  The Festival asked the monks if they would be willing to do their ritual during the Ladakh Festival and they agreed.  

Masked Dancer, Chowkhang Gompa  - Leh, Ladakh, India

As has been the pattern the dances themselves are somewhat simple.  It is the masks and costumes that make it so interesting.  One would never guess that monks were the performers if it weren’t for the orange robes peeking below the elaborate costumes.  

Masked Dancer, Chowkhang Gompa - Leh, Ladakh, India

It was thoroughly entertaining, and though the religious significance behind the performance was not exactly apparent to us, it was not to be missed.  Again, Cynthia’s photos can give a much better idea of the monks transformation than the written word.

As with all of the performances we have witnessed so far, the attendees deserve special mention.  Especially the “old” women who come with their elaborate earrings and prayer beads that continually rotate in their fingers.  They come in force and seem in rapture at the performances.  

Three Friends
Ladakh Festival
Leh, Ladakh, India

It is worth a quick mention that Cynthia and I experienced our first ever polo match. It seemed a bit incongruous with the rest of the festival, but it was a sanctioned part of the program.  Several times Cynthia and I had to leap out of the way of the flying hoofs as their were no clear boundaries between field and spectator.  Didn’t quite get the rules but they seemed simple enough.  Smack the ball through the goal!

Flying Hooves!
Ladakh Festival Polo Match
Leh, Ladakh, India

9/23/16

     Since we had been to the 2nd and 3rd highest road pass in the world, how could we not go to the highest, Khardung La.  Today we did just that.  18,380 ft!!  To put that in some perspective, that is about the altitude of the Mt. Everest base camp, the highest mountain in the Rockies is some 14,000 ft, and the volcanoes that Cynthia and I look at every day top out at 12,000 ft.  

From Khardung La
Ladakh, India

On the way up one has incredible views of the whole valley that cradles the city of Leh.  Mountain ranges are visible that have multiple snow covered peaks.  There is a sign at the highest point that advises one not to stay more than 20 minutes as it is bad for your health.  Though Cynthia and I felt decently acclimated to the altitude, a light head was definitely present.  We took some photos to prove that we had been there, experienced the wind blowing the ever present prayer flags, took a pee to leave our mark, and got out of there only overstaying our allowed time by 10 minutes.  

Next time I experience that altitude in will be in an airplane!!

JB at Khardung La
Ladakh, India

     The afternoon saw the closing ceremony for the Festival.  It was in the main bazaar area in the heart of Leh.  To their credit what they call the main bazaar is a large area that is pedestrian only.  No cars or motorbikes (tuk tuks are sadly missing from the entire city).  We got there early and were able to score good seat locations.  Good thing as the festivities started late and ended late.  Many of the performances were the same, or similar, to the ones we had seen at the opening ceremony.  Certainly not a bad thing as we just couldn’t get enough of the pageantry.     

Flowers in her hair

A couple of interesting asides.  The stage was set up right in front of the mosque that is one of the book ends for the main bazaar.  It makes for a beautiful scene.  Well as mentioned the performances went late.  Right in the middle of one of the dances the Muslim call to prayer came blaring over the mosque’s loud speakers.  The dance did not stop, but as it ended everyone just patiently waited until silence prevailed.  The ceremony then began again.  

     The final performance of the festival was a total surprise.  The eloquent woman who had been doing all the English announcing during the festival said it was with the gracious cooperation of the “powers that be” that they were able to have the next most auspicious and famous group perform.  Out came a Ladakhi version of a rock and roll band.  There were synthesizer, drums, bass, and guitar.  The two main players were vocalists and they sang songs which many in the crowd seemed familiar with.  The elderly lady sitting next to me, braided and dressed in her long traditional Tibetan robes and elaborate jewelry, smiled and nodded through most of the performance.  Cynthia and I were definitely shocked when they broke into a version of “Hotel California”.  You know what?  It wasn't bad!!  And so ended our wonderful experience of the Ladakh Festival.  If any of the readers are inclined to make their way to Leh, I highly recommend having it coincide with the festival.

     Tomorrow brings major change.  Our time in India is up and we are headed to Nepal and Kathmandu.  Our next blog will be devoted to our Nepalese experience. 

Peaks, Parades and the Well Dressed Yak

9/19/16

     Our first night in Leh.  We went to trusty old TripAdvisor to find a place to eat.  After climbing some seriously rickety stairs we reached the rooftop restaurant we were looking for.  Perfect.  The old fort and the palace were visible in the not too far distance, dominating the mountainside overlooking the city.  As we looked to the East we saw traces of a bright light begin to appear just above the mountain.  The moon?  Indeed, the full moon began to make its majestic entrance to an already incredible scene.  What more could we want?  A beer, maybe, after a long day.  So I said to the waiter that we would like a beer first, and then we would order food after.  “Sorry sir, no alcohol on full moon days.”  Can that be?   Though it was a bummer, we got over the shock fairly quickly.  Soft drink anyone?

Moonrise Over Leh, Ladakh

     
     The ride from Sarchu to Leh was full of majestic mountain scenes.  The entire time we were never below 12,000 ft.  One of the distinctions of Leh is that the three highest road passes in the world are within a few hours drive.  On this journey we passed over the 17,582 ft Tangling La pass.  It is wondrous for sure.  Though trite in written word, one does feel as though they are on top of the world.  One struggles for breath, fights between the urge to take it all in or get the hell out of there.  The scene is as barren as the driest desert.  Almost nothing grows.  Snow covered peaks do rise above, but no snow was on the ground where we were.  That will not be the case in a couple of weeks.  

Tangling La
Ladakh, India

     As we got closer to Leh, Vijay, for the first time, seemed to be pressing it a bit.  We didn’t stop for lunch as we had always done, and several times we whizzed by sites that I thought might be interesting.  It all became clear upon our arrival in Leh.  When I asked him where he was spending the night he indicated that his boss had called him and instructed him to drive back to Manali that night.  A 14 + hour journey over roads that were clearly no picnic.  I couldn’t believe it.  

     It seems that similar problems and struggles prevail in all corners of the globe.  In this instance, I am referring to the maintenance of culture and the environment.  Today in Leh we had an extended conversation with a young man, who was Ladakhi, about the current situation in Leh.  He bemoaned the changes that are taking place.  The disregard for the cultural heritage, the problems that surround the environment and the attempts to right them.  Environmentally speaking he indicated that the Indians themselves were the worst problem.  It seems the Indian tourists have a general disregard for trash and what to do with it.  He indicated that the foreign governments, and Western tourists, have introduced a different way of thinking in this regard, and they are in the process of trying to bring change to fruition.  For those of us who live in Guatemala, this sounds all too familiar.  The beginnings are there, but it is a long educational struggle.  

     In Leh they are really trying to encourage tourism.  As always, that is a double-edged sword.  Our young man bemoaned the fact that many of the old historic buildings are getting torn down and replaced by hotels.  I asked if there were government preservation laws and he said, “yes, but no one pays any attention to them.”  Again, I don’t think this a problem unique to Leh, India.  The trend is everywhere.  Of course what has to be remembered is that countries, towns and communities need to protect their history and culture, and protect its cleanliness, as that is what draws the tourists in the first place.  

9/20/16    

     Speaking of maintaining one’s culture, as luck would have it we came to Leh during the Ladakh Festival.  It is a once a year event that highlights the culture of the different tribal regions of the district of Ladakh.  Cynthia and I didn’t know what to expect, but we were excited none-the-less.  And we were not disappointed.  As it turned out the gathering point for the beginning of the inaugural parade was not far from our hotel.  As it came into sight we discovered we had arrived none too early.  All of the groups, with their traditional clothing, were preparing for the parade.  The traditional costumes were just incredible.  

Ladakhi Wedding Attire
Silver, turquoise, coral, pearl, bone jewelry

Of course the women are what really stood out.  Cynthia and I looked at each other and almost simultaneously said “what plain Janes we Westerners are!”   Rather than try and describe the elaborate skirts, hats and jewelry, I think Cynthia’s photos offer a better summary of what we saw.   

Ladakhi Wedding Attire
Silver, turquoise, coral, pearl jewelry

     

Beautiful Ladakhi Women
Silver, turquoise, coral jewelry; sheep-hide capes

Ladakhi Woman with Traditional Dress
Silver, turquoise, coral and pearl jewelry; sheep-hide cape

     After watching the preparation for the opening parade (which included a well-dressed yak and camels), we made our way to the polo field where the opening ceremony was going to take place.  The sun was intense.  Not a cloud in the sky and 11,500 ft make for a sun that won’t let you escape it.  As we were a bit far from the festivities we decided to move in closer.  It was then we discovered that they had set up a shaded area with a sign indicating “tourist."  

Well-dressed Yak

Though it was already packed we made our way to the back and eventually got seating.  Yes!  The traditional dances and singing followed.  They were not complex dances but with the addition of the elaborate traditional dress, they were fascinating. 

Men's Wedding Attire

The live drumming and the horns added a texture that drew

one’s attention like a magnet.  Surprisingly a lot of the commentary was in English.  Again, it made it clear that there was a concerted effort to appeal to, and bring, the tourists.  One official’s speech was totally about how many hotels and restaurants there now were in Leh, and what a fabulous tourist destination it was.  Well, I can’t disagree with him, but I do question his focus.  As we left the venue Cynthia and I felt so lucky to have seen, and been a part of, this festival.  

     In the spirit of keeping our blogs a reasonable length, our adventures in and around Leh will continue soon.  Please watch for our next blog which will go live within the next day or so.