We are now  back in Yangon after doing our Sourthern most part of the trip.  But more about that later.  We are getting to understand Myanmar a bit more, and that means getting to know the people.  One great source of information has been our driver Soe.  He is University educated, has decent English, and drives a cab tourist service for a living.  As mentioned, we initially met him randomly as his number came up as we were finding a cab from the airport to the city.  

     Things seem to be getting gradually better for the people of Myanmar.  Their freedom to do everything from making a living as they chose, to accessing news and the internet have changed drastically.  Ten years ago there was no internet in Myanmar.  It was blocked by the military government.  Telephones, though available, were priced prohibitively and only the most wealthy could afford them.  As a result most of the population was insulated from the outside world, and though they were aware of that fact, there was little they could do about it.

       There is no doubt that the people credit Aung San Suu Kyi with being the catalyst for change.  Her name comes up a lot and they seem quite proud that she is currently a member of the legislature.  The fact that her sons are not living in Myanmar is the reason given for her not being able to run for president.  There are reports that there are moves to change the law but, of course, the military is afraid of her popularity.  Meanwhile it is such a good thing that the people have a national hero, who has definitely been a catalyst for change.

     While on the roads, and we have been on quite a few so far, there is no police or military presence.  No traffic cops, no military roadblocks, nothing.  Now take that in contrast to Guatemala where military roadblocks are a reality of life.  Here it just seems that everyone is going about there business with a decent respect for their fellow countryman.  Not what I expected.

     One final observation.  Our President Obama came here in November and it clearly made a huge impression.  Soe could not talk about his visit enough.  How he refused to go to the new capitol (not Yangon) because he wanted to meet with Aung San Suu Kyi.  The military leader apparently capitulated and came to Yangon instead.  While in this very humble restaurant in Malamalyine the proprieter asked Soe where we were from.  He said America.  She looked at us, smiled, and said "Obama"!

     I had lost, but have now recovered, my external key board.  I promise the blogs will come more regularly.  We are definitely having a great trip.  Tomorrow early we begin our journey North.  

     Our second full day in Yangon.  It turns out that once a year the Sule Paya, the temple next to our hotel, has a holy festival once a year where they chant for 10 days, 24 hours a day.  Luckily we caught the last day of it.  3 a.m. has returned to the 3 a.m. one would expect.  Relative quiet!  

     I can not say enough about the friendliness of the Myanmar people.  This is one country where being a Westerner is still a novelty.  Especially Cynthia with her blond hair.  Today we went to the People's Park.  Several times goups of young women came up to us and asked us to pose in their photograph with them.  It is a novelty to be a novelty.  I remember that feeling in other countries, even Mexico, but that was 35 years ago.  Kind of fun actually.

     We visited the Shwedagon Paya today.  It is the most revered pagoda in Myanmar, arguably in all of S.E. Asia.  It was completely fascinating.  Not only the Temple(s) themselves but the actions of the people.  Where it cost us $8 to enter it is free for the people of Myanmar.  They come not to be tourists, as we experienced big time in Thailand, but to BE there.  They spread out their lunch in the shady spots, come with their families, pray, and respect the Buddhas.  It is relaxed, there are certainly a lot of people, but not near oppressive.  Gold, Buddhas, and the people of Myanmar rule the day.  I left feeling uplifted with a calm.  

     There are now three of us traveelling together and sharing the experience.  Cynthia and I, of course, and my friend for over 35 years, Kathy Wilson.  A fellow jeweler who is experiencing Asia for the first time.  The three of us have an easy presence together and three is a good number.  One more day to experince Yangon, then we hit the perverbial road.  Loving it all right now.      JB

     

    This morning finds us in Yangon.  Quite the change on all fronts.  Though  right next door, Myanmar so far, seems more like India than Thailand.  Lungees are the dress of the men.  A long wrap  around piece of fabric, more like a long skirt than anything else.  Our hotel is basic.  It kind of reminds me of my grandfathers living room on the farm.  Clutter dominates.  We are right next to the Sule Pagodda.  Good and bad.  We have a fabulous view of it out our window, though the angle isn't quite right.  Main down side is the chanting.  24 hours a day with no let up.  It comes out over what must be giant speakers as the volume is intense.  Sleeping pills, pillows over the head, tp in my ears.  Still not really a solution.  I am trying to relate to it as a meditation.  Goes between that and a nightmare.
     We have signed up with the driver of the cab from the airport to take us on the next leg of the journey.  That starts Monday.  Maybe a little impulsive but we liked him.  Call it providence.  Meanwhile more about Yangon in the next entry.  Kathy, Cynthia and JB are fine and thrilled to be here.                 JB
   
   

     Pretty much over the jet lag and into the full swing.  We lost a day in the process, but hey, we'll get it back eventually.  It has  been over 20 years since I have done Bangkok and it feels like a new experience.  I am absolutely blown away by how many travelers, of all ilks, are here.  Thousands of them.  Even though I have seen it three times before the Recling Bhudda at Watt Po is still a sight to be seen.  And I do love the Chao Phraya River.  It is literally the life blood of Bangkok.  The variety, design and style of the River Boats is nothing short of amazing.
     Then there is the night life.  I don't think there is anything quite like it.  All stops pulled.  Of course at my age there aren't that many stops to pull!  We have hooked up with our long time friends Ron and Celiane Dunetz who are on their way to Katmandu.  So we are 5.  A crowd.  But a fun one.  One more full day and off to Yangon.  More soon.     JB
   

The Last Time I Flew to Bangkok

I remember the last time I flew to Bangkok.  Late 1992.  Cynthia and I were just becoming an item.  Our first trip together, though our good and dear friend Callie was along for the ride.  A couple of memories that mark the passage of time.  The food on the flight was fantastic.  Had a menu and the whole bit.  I had a fish dinner accompanied by a complimentary glass of wine.  That was tempered by the smoke that wafted up from the smoking section of the plane.  Upon arriving in Bangkok I was astounded at the traffic, and the pollution.  Almost 2 hours to get the relatively short distance to the city from the airport.   For two or three days we had to fight to adjust to the time change.  Basically exactly the opposite of the States.  9 o'clock was really pushing it.  (reminds me of my current life in Santa Cruz!)

So here we are ready to depart.  I am excited, but in a muted sort of way.  I am not sure if that comes under the "kicks just keep getting harder to find" category, or because I am a firm believer in "Be Here Now".  The next entry will find me in a total and complete different state.  Physically and mentally I am sure.  Though I live in a country foreign to the one I have lived in most of my life, I am ready for that jolt that comes with travel.  Especially, for me, Third World Travel.