Pokhara, the Moto, and the Grand Finale

9/30/16

     Ahhh Pokhara, how you have grown.  In 1988 it was a small town that mainly serviced trekkers that were here to set off into the mountains, specifically in and around the Annapurna range of the Himalaya. There were hotels and restaurants, but mainly the back packer type.  I think my friend Ron Dunetz and I paid like, $3 a night.  Nothing hinting at being upscale.  It is not surprising that this has changed.  Not only is Pokhara so well situated in terms of the BIG mountains, but it sits on the very lovely Lake Phewa.  Lake Phewa is the second largest lake in Nepal, but even with that it is not huge.  The river valley that feeds it is, but the lake itself retains a calm demeanor most of the time.  One interesting factoid is that no motor boats are allowed on the lake.  All transportation is by canoe shaped boats with a flat bottom, or even paddle boats for the tourist.  

Boat with Peaking Pagoda
Lake Phewa, Pokhara, Nepal

There are many houses on surrounding hillsides that have no road access.  The lake is their road (much like the village where Cynthia and I live in Guatemala) but they have no choice but to row or paddle wherever they may be bound.  Rough if you have forgotten that dozen eggs!

     Cynthia and I came here with no plan.  It was good to relax and see what unfolded.  Getting out on the lake seemed like a no brainer, and after doing a bit of reading it became apparent that we could accomplish two things in one journey.  In the 90’s a Japanese Buddhist group completed a Peace Pagoda (stupa) high on the very top of the “hill” overlooking the lake and Pokhara.  

Peace Pagoda
Pokhara, Nepal

One can get close to it by road; but a more interesting, and heart building, way is to go by boat, then climb to the pagoda.  Cynthia and I did just that.  At the trail head a sign says it’s a 45 minute climb up the trail.  Two hours later Cynthia and I arrived.  Not that it beat us up, but we took our time, had tea, looked at the flora and fauna, and just enjoyed ourselves.  The view from the top was wonderful.  Unfortunately we were too late to see the huge Annapurna range, off in the not too far distance, as the inevitable clouds had moved in to obscure it.  Still, definitely worth the climb.  No doubt it is the closest thing to a trek on our agenda for this trip!

     In the afternoon we moved on to the very excellent International Mountain Museum.  The facility is huge, and of course dedicated to the most majestic mountain range on the planet, the Himalayas.  The museum had exhibits on everything from the different tribal people that inhabit them to the problem Mt Everest is having with garbage (sound familiar?)  Actually the museum was so large that it was almost intimidating.  I got a bit weighed down in the geology section, but perked up again when reading about the feats of some of the climbers.  

     When I was at the Annapurna Base Camp there was no where else to go but up with a technical climb.  As I stood on one of the ridges and heard the winds howl and the avalanches growl, I realized I had no desire to be a mountain climber.  “Because it is there” just didn’t do it for me.  But seeing how these monsters were formed, how amazing they are in terms of size on a global sense, and how men and women can turn a suicide mission into a sport was pretty fascinating.  

10/1/16

     

     I love riding motorcycles.  In India, in the out of the way places we were traveling, we saw so many groups and individuals have an ultimate adventure on those torturous roads.  Yet the bug just didn’t hit me.  Conditions too severe, weather too severe, the bikes not really right for the long haul gear wise.  No such thing as a hard pack, everything was tied on with a plastic sheet trying to protect it from the elements.  So finally in Pokhara it seemed that the time was right.  Cynthia and I rented a 350 cc Royal Enfield, the rather classic bike of choice here.  The idea was to ride to the Sarangkot overlook to experience the jaw dropping view of the large Annapurna range.  The guides and agencies push doing this for sunrise.  We were going to go early, but we planned on still being in bed at sunrise!  The day before we had seen a clear sky and good mountain views from our room, then saw the clouds move in as the day became later.  Somehow we thought this would be the pattern.  Wrong.  The first thing I did when we got up was to look out our window to see it totally clouded in.  Rats!  We decided to go for anyway, hoping the clouds would take a hint and move on.  

     I had partially scoped out the route the day before and thought I knew it.  Wrong again!  I missed the turn, and we ran into totally strange territory in the middle of Old Pokhara.  As I was struggling along, trying to make a decision as to where to go, what do we run into but a parade!  

Parade
Old Pokhara, Nepal

And a long one.  Masks, music, a float and dancers passed us by.  Now usually Cynthia and I would be totally up for this.  But please, not now!  The clouds were clearing and we wanted so much to reach our destination.  Finally I asked a fellow motorcyclist how to get to Sarangkot.  He said, “follow me”.  What a guy!  We were weaving and winding and guess what?  We ran into the parade again!  So we watched it for the second time.  

Goddess for a day
Old Pokhara, Nepal

After several other miss starts we finally did make it to the overlook.  The mountains were incredible though the clouds obscured them enough not to give us a clear view of the entire range.  Kind of foiled, kind of successful.  

      One side note.  Pokhara is literally famous for its paragliding.  Lonely Planet states that it is one of the best spots on the planet to give it a go.  Well the launching spot is from the side of the mountain in Sarangkot.  Cynthia and I were astounded at how many gliders were taking off.  At one point I would say we could count fifty of them in the sky.  

Paragliders' Paradise
Sarangkot, Nepal

And that continued most of the day!  For $85 you could get a 20 minute ride that you would never forget.  For $115 you could stretch that to 45 minutes.  The lake and entire valley would be in view.  If you caught a thermal and the clouds were right one could see the mountain range as well.  Cynthia had the urge to do it, but she needed some time to build up to it and we just didn’t have it.  I certainly gave her credit for even considering it!

     Since we had been semi-foiled on the morning’s excursion we had heard about a spot where two lakes lay side by side, and the report was that it was beautiful.  We decided to give it a try.  The ride on the main road was no fun, but miraculously Cynthia spotted our turn off about 30 minutes out of town.  We were not disappointed.  A very quiet road in great shape took us to an overlook of the lakes that was spectacular. 

Lake Rupa, Nepal

No honking horns, no traffic, no tourists (except us), no one trying to sell us anything.  It was great and worth the effort to get there, and back again.  

     On the way we saw an interesting phenomenon.  There was a herd of goats close to the road with lots of people stopped to check them out.  At first I thought it was tourists fascinated by the scene.  We decided to stop and take it in ourselves.  Next thing we saw was a goat being muscled into the back of an SUV.  Then we saw one being crammed into the trunk of a car.  What’s up with this?  

Goats for Sale
Pokhara, Nepal

Cynthia thought maybe it was a goat sale so they could introduce new stock to their herd.  Stop the inner breeding.  Well come to find out a big holiday is coming and having goat meat is the tradition.  Apparently Pokhara is famous for their goat sales and people come from all over the region to sell and to purchase their goats for their holiday feast.  No wonder the goats were putting up such a fight!!!

     

10/2/16

     Well tonight we are tripping the light fantastic.  This evening is our last night in Pokhara.  So we indulged.  Today I tripped out on the moto while Cynthia went to the spa for the full treatment.  We both got what we wanted.  I got a ride where there was no traffic, beautiful scenery, a local flavor, and a sense of fulfillment.  Cynthia got a pedicure, a full body scrub and a facial.  When all that was complete we went lakeside and indulged in a couple of beers accompanied by a peanut sadeko.  As those who know me are aware, I have a jones for peanuts. (One of the few snacks that are relatively few on the evil carbs).  Well here they make a peanut mix with a variety of spices and vegetables.  Spicy and heavenly.  We watched the people go by, saw the sun set over the lake, and fully appreciated how lucky we are.  

      When darkness set in and the thunder began we made our way to our favorite restaurant here in Pokhara.  Moondance.  This restaurant could be a hit in any hip community in the States.   Service is beyond good, and the food imaginative and excellent.  We accompanied our dinners with a pitcher of mojitos (dangerous) and finished it all off by splitting a piece of their “famous” lemon meringue pie.  What the hell more could we want?  Just for the record, after a tasty salad, entree for the both of us, the exquisite pitcher of ecstasy, and the heavily pie, a bit less than $50 including tip.  For Nepal that is an indulgence, in the States it is getting to be a salad, a burger and maybe a beer.  Again, the value is here.  

     Our adventure is nearing an end.  Tomorrow we head back to Kathmandu to spend two nights.  Oh, and no bus, this time we fly!  All of 25 minutes as opposed to the seven hours on the bus. (You have to love a country that has national airlines with the names “Yeti Airlines” and “Buddha Air”).  

Our Yeti
Pokhara, Nepal

Then the twilight zone begins as we fly from Kathmandu, to Delhi, to Newark, to Detroit.  I think we gain back that illusive day somewhere in there.  

10/5/16

     We are now in the Delhi airport with our eleven hour layover.  Yes, you heard that right, eleven hours!  They won’t let us in the main departure lounge until 3 hours before the flight.  So here we are in the waiting-for-the-departure-lounge lounge.  Not exactly cush but we are making do.  I like to relate some final reflections on the trip, but now is not the time.  In a sentence, it couldn’t have been better.  That is unless Kashmir had found a way to peace which, as I write, seems as far away as ever.  Know that Cynthia and I are happy, healthy and so glad we had this  “Great Adventure”.

Temple Monkey
Kathmandu, Nepal

   

     

The Stupas and those Fascinating Streets

9/27/16

     It has been 28 years since I was in Nepal.  It was on my first trip to Asia, also combined with India, with the thrust being a twenty day trek in the Annapurna Range of the Himalaya.  I must say that Katmandu is still a mind blow, though it is not without serious problems.  One is the destruction laid by the massive earthquake they experienced in April of 2015, the other is the intense traffic and pollution.  I don’t mean to start out on a negative note as I think Nepal, and specifically the Katmandu Valley, are a great visit.  

      We made the decision to stay out of the main tourist area of Thamel and found a hotel in the area of one of the most famous Buddhist stupas, Boudhanath.  It is a 1/2 hour to 1 hour taxi ride from the main part of Katmandu, depending on traffic.  Boudhanath is the largest stupa in Asia and is immediately recognizable by the eyes of Buddha that I always associate with Nepal.  

Buddha's Eyes

I remember them making a definite impression on me when I visited on that first trip.  Because of the earthquake it now has a total different impression.  The stupa is covered with tarps and scaffolding and the signature eyes are not visible at all.  The surrounding scene, the village-like ambiance, the many monks, the distinct smell of incense, the sound of chanting as the stupa is circumnavigated, the trays of multiple candles that bring magic to the night, are still in full force.  

Monks Lighting Devotion Candles
Boudhanath Stupa, Nepal

But the Buddha’s eyes are missing.  The report is that the stupa only suffered minor damage and will be fully repaired, but we are 1-1/2 years past the earthquake and work is still proceeding.  There is a major festival in November and they hope to have the restoration done by then.  

     That said, it is still a wonderful place to visit.  When one goes onto the street outside the main area of the stupa one can’t miss the stark difference.  Traffic is heavy, dust is ever invasive, and there is a cacophony of noise.  Walk through the main entrance and it is a different world.  It really is like a little village.  

Around Boudhanath Stupa
Boudhanath, Nepal

Tibetan Woman Burning Incense
Boudhanath Stupa, Nepal

The stupa takes the main stage in the middle and little shops and restaurants line the outer circle.  The inner circle has a short wall that has prayer wheels spinning from the many Buddhist pilgrims who have come to pay respects.  I did read that it is one of the only places remaining where true Tibetan Buddhism still flourishes.  This is our home while in Kathmandu.

Boudhanath Stupa Monk
Boudhanath, Nepal

Women Singing
Boudhanath, Nepal

Pampered Pigeons
Boudhanath Stupa, Nepal

     Yesterday we took a taxi to the central part of Kathmandu.  We spent the entire day walking the streets of Thamel district, then followed the Lonely Planet walking map down to Durbar Square.  Durbar means palace.  (Kathmandu has one of the most famous palace complexes, but by no means the only one.)  There were several things that made for a totally fascinating walk.  The narrow streets are a saving grace.  Mostly pedestrians with a few motor bikes and almost no cars.  They just won’t fit.  Shops selling everything imaginable are candy for the eye, some fascinating, some part of the inevitable repetition that seems to plague areas that cater to tourists.  

Street Scene in Old Kathmandu, Nepal

Again the people are as interesting as anything.  The women with their outrageously colorful clothes (often saris), multi-pierced ears and nose, and mysterious air (to me) are out in throngs.  An occasional Hindu sadu (holy man) will pass by with his painted face, long hair and staff in hand.  One can’t go more than 25 yards without coming upon a shrine or stupa.  They are literally everywhere.  Many of these are probably five or six hundred years old, yet are used as a display for merchants selling their wares.  Some of the more fascinating shrines we never would have found if not for the book.  The entrance can be through a stall selling clothing, barely visible, yet once inside what one finds is totally fascinating.  

     Durbar Square itself was well worth the visit, but the earthquake definitely left its shaking reality known.  Damage everywhere.  Piles of bricks from 800 year old shrines still haphazardly lay about.  The government is going about the business of repairing most of them, but the original glory has definitely taken a hit.  We visited the palace and many religious shrines and it is so easy to get taken back to a time long ago.  I do like the fact that places that were reserved for the very privileged few are now open to all.  Yes, the left leaning hippy coming out in me.  There is a poetry to that.  

     Ironically one of the buildings that did not get damaged extensively is the home of the Kumari Devi.  She is, in fact, a living goddess and maybe that is why!  Her story is certainly bizarre.  A young girl is selected through a very rigorous process and is believed to be the manifestation of the divine female energy.  She is cloistered in the Kumari house (which is very near the palace) with her family and is only allowed out during special festivals.  Each day at a certain time she makes an appearance from one of the windows of the house, and silently blesses those that gathered outside.  Her reign can be begin as young as 4 years old.  When she menstruates for the first time it is believed that her “holy spirit” has ascended and she returns to normal life.  Another Kumari Devi is then chosen.  Though there has been a back lash against this practice, calling it child abuse, a Nepali court has actually sanctioned the practice.  I Googled her and found that past Kumaris seemed to relish the time of their reign, though they had a hard time letting it go and passing into a “normal” life.  

     No doubt the old city is what fascinates the most.  The streets are jammed but one sees very few tourists.  It is the Nepalese going about their daily routine.  A close inspection of the goods for sale can be confusing as sometimes we couldn’t identify what the item was.  Other times we knew what we were looking at, but couldn’t figure what it was for.  Large bundles of yak hair in both black and white?  A wig? For spinning? Stuffing for a pillow? Religious ceremonies?  

Yak Tail Hair

     It was interesting to see how the items for sale changed as we moved from the tourist area of Thamel (which still has tons of locals) to the absolute packed streets of Old Katmandu.  Out was the jewelry, the trekking gear, the singing bowls, and in was the spice shops, the sari selection, and even what we would call in Guatemala the Paca shops (selling second run American style clothing).  Yes, it is a mind blowing stroll but also an exhausting one.  By the time Cynthia and I returned to our room we were, yes, wasted!

9/28/16

     Today we hired a taxi ($35 for the day) and visited the other two most well known Durbars in the Katmandu Valley.  Bhaktapur and Patan.  I must say that if I visit Katmandu again I will definitely reserve a couple of days to stay in Bhaktapur.  The Durbar Square is interesting, and there are many shrines and stupas that are fascinating to see.  But more than that the village itself is so intriguing.  One can stroll the streets and find a very interesting scene, but without the chaos that goes with central Katmandu.  The streets are narrow, hardly any cars, plenty of things to see and fondle, and everyone was friendly and low key.  

      One temple caught our eye.  I must admit it was not the temple itself that stood out (though it was not too shabby), but the goats that perpetually hang out in front of it.  They are literally the temple goats.  No one owns them, they don't wander far from the temple, and the locals feed them.  What I assume was the male goat had the oddest goat face I have ever seen.  Hard to describe, but it wouldn't win a goat beauty contest!

Bhaktapur, Nepal

"Goat" Temple
Bhaktapur, Nepal

      We did hire a guide here which we usually say a firm NO to.  It turned out worth while as he took us into the neighborhoods that we never would have seen, that were severely affected by the earthquake.  It seemed that people were making do, but barely.  “Temporary” housing seemed to be the norm, and who the hell knows how long “temporary” will last.  I didn’t sense any “poor me” attitude, just that life had taken a huge left turn and they were dealing with it.  

     Probably one of the more interesting things we saw in Patan (the ancient stupas and shrines were exceedingly interesting, but we had seen several by this time) was an exhibit and sale of art work to raise money in order to bring attention to, and bring an effort to end, exploitation and sexual abuse against women.   This is certainly cutting edge in Nepal and it struck a cord with Cynthia and I.  Not only that, we really liked most of the paintings (all originals) that had been donated.  So after viewing the excellent museum we went back to the exhibition and bought a painting.  We are both eager to get it home and framed, a worthy addition to the art work we have collected on our travels.  Should you want to get a few more details on this ground-breaking movement in Nepal, here is their website.   www.xposenepal.org.np

     Tomorrow we leave for Pokhara.  We are going to take a bus for the 7-hour journey.  We want to see the country side and we are in no hurry.  With luck, weather being right, we will be able to get up close and personal to the reason that most travelers come to Nepal.  The Himalayas!

Machhapuchhare
6,997m /  22,956 ft.
Annapurna Range, Nepal