Monks, Lakes and Mountain Tops

9/21/16

     Living on one of the most beautiful lakes in the world (Lago Atitlan), we couldn’t pass up the opportunity to visit another lake famous for its beauty.  Pangong Tso.  Tso means "lake" in Ladhaki.  One has a choice of doing the 11 hour round trip journey in one day, or spending the night in one of the tent villages that are available lakeside.  Given the altitude and our previous experience, we opted to do the trip in one day.  

Pangong Tso
Ladakh, India

We left at 7 in the morning and proceeded to do switch back city once again.  The drive was indeed beautiful, somewhat similar to the mountain scenes we had witnessed in Spiti.  One has to go over the third highest road pass in the world, and the pass is the home, per their sign, of the highest restaurant in the world.  It was a mud hut with limited fair (we didn’t eat there) but hey, it had its claim to fame.  

      When we arrived at the lake we were indeed shocked by the beauty.  The surrounding mountains, which tower over the lake, have a multi-colored sand look.  

Buddhist Temple, Pangong Tso
Ladakh, India

The lake itself radiates with color. The blue hues are deep and clear.  It is probably the closest either Cynthia or I will get to China.  The lake is some 100 miles long and 1/3 of it is in China.  As we looked off into the distance we could see the mountain peaks that were definitely across the border. 

     As a result of its proximity to China, the Indian Army has a predominant presence in the area.  There were several army camps (imagine being stationed for the long haul at 15,000 ft and calling a dark tent home!!) seemingly strategically placed as we made our way to the lake. (Train Hard, Fight Easy).  Cynthia and I had tea and momos (a type of steamed dumpling, a Tibetan specialty), walked the shoreline, and joined the other tourists (mostly Indian) take in the majestic scene.  Though a long day, we both felt that it had been worth the effort.

The Pose
Pangong Tso, Ladakh, India

9/22/16

     Today was another festival day.  I just can’t express how lucky we were to be in Leh at this auspicious time.  The courtyard of the Chowkhang Gompa Monastery was the setting for the dramatic performance that unfolded.  

Chowkhang Gompa Monk Musicians,
Leh, Ladakh, India

Monk Musicians, Chowkhang Gompa  - Leh, Ladakh, India

The monks of the monastery have a ritual of putting on a masked “dance” performance once a year.  It is famous to the people of Leh, but usually happens in the winter when few outsiders are present.  The Festival asked the monks if they would be willing to do their ritual during the Ladakh Festival and they agreed.  

Masked Dancer, Chowkhang Gompa  - Leh, Ladakh, India

As has been the pattern the dances themselves are somewhat simple.  It is the masks and costumes that make it so interesting.  One would never guess that monks were the performers if it weren’t for the orange robes peeking below the elaborate costumes.  

Masked Dancer, Chowkhang Gompa - Leh, Ladakh, India

It was thoroughly entertaining, and though the religious significance behind the performance was not exactly apparent to us, it was not to be missed.  Again, Cynthia’s photos can give a much better idea of the monks transformation than the written word.

As with all of the performances we have witnessed so far, the attendees deserve special mention.  Especially the “old” women who come with their elaborate earrings and prayer beads that continually rotate in their fingers.  They come in force and seem in rapture at the performances.  

Three Friends
Ladakh Festival
Leh, Ladakh, India

It is worth a quick mention that Cynthia and I experienced our first ever polo match. It seemed a bit incongruous with the rest of the festival, but it was a sanctioned part of the program.  Several times Cynthia and I had to leap out of the way of the flying hoofs as their were no clear boundaries between field and spectator.  Didn’t quite get the rules but they seemed simple enough.  Smack the ball through the goal!

Flying Hooves!
Ladakh Festival Polo Match
Leh, Ladakh, India

9/23/16

     Since we had been to the 2nd and 3rd highest road pass in the world, how could we not go to the highest, Khardung La.  Today we did just that.  18,380 ft!!  To put that in some perspective, that is about the altitude of the Mt. Everest base camp, the highest mountain in the Rockies is some 14,000 ft, and the volcanoes that Cynthia and I look at every day top out at 12,000 ft.  

From Khardung La
Ladakh, India

On the way up one has incredible views of the whole valley that cradles the city of Leh.  Mountain ranges are visible that have multiple snow covered peaks.  There is a sign at the highest point that advises one not to stay more than 20 minutes as it is bad for your health.  Though Cynthia and I felt decently acclimated to the altitude, a light head was definitely present.  We took some photos to prove that we had been there, experienced the wind blowing the ever present prayer flags, took a pee to leave our mark, and got out of there only overstaying our allowed time by 10 minutes.  

Next time I experience that altitude in will be in an airplane!!

JB at Khardung La
Ladakh, India

     The afternoon saw the closing ceremony for the Festival.  It was in the main bazaar area in the heart of Leh.  To their credit what they call the main bazaar is a large area that is pedestrian only.  No cars or motorbikes (tuk tuks are sadly missing from the entire city).  We got there early and were able to score good seat locations.  Good thing as the festivities started late and ended late.  Many of the performances were the same, or similar, to the ones we had seen at the opening ceremony.  Certainly not a bad thing as we just couldn’t get enough of the pageantry.     

Flowers in her hair

A couple of interesting asides.  The stage was set up right in front of the mosque that is one of the book ends for the main bazaar.  It makes for a beautiful scene.  Well as mentioned the performances went late.  Right in the middle of one of the dances the Muslim call to prayer came blaring over the mosque’s loud speakers.  The dance did not stop, but as it ended everyone just patiently waited until silence prevailed.  The ceremony then began again.  

     The final performance of the festival was a total surprise.  The eloquent woman who had been doing all the English announcing during the festival said it was with the gracious cooperation of the “powers that be” that they were able to have the next most auspicious and famous group perform.  Out came a Ladakhi version of a rock and roll band.  There were synthesizer, drums, bass, and guitar.  The two main players were vocalists and they sang songs which many in the crowd seemed familiar with.  The elderly lady sitting next to me, braided and dressed in her long traditional Tibetan robes and elaborate jewelry, smiled and nodded through most of the performance.  Cynthia and I were definitely shocked when they broke into a version of “Hotel California”.  You know what?  It wasn't bad!!  And so ended our wonderful experience of the Ladakh Festival.  If any of the readers are inclined to make their way to Leh, I highly recommend having it coincide with the festival.

     Tomorrow brings major change.  Our time in India is up and we are headed to Nepal and Kathmandu.  Our next blog will be devoted to our Nepalese experience. 

Peaks, Parades and the Well Dressed Yak

9/19/16

     Our first night in Leh.  We went to trusty old TripAdvisor to find a place to eat.  After climbing some seriously rickety stairs we reached the rooftop restaurant we were looking for.  Perfect.  The old fort and the palace were visible in the not too far distance, dominating the mountainside overlooking the city.  As we looked to the East we saw traces of a bright light begin to appear just above the mountain.  The moon?  Indeed, the full moon began to make its majestic entrance to an already incredible scene.  What more could we want?  A beer, maybe, after a long day.  So I said to the waiter that we would like a beer first, and then we would order food after.  “Sorry sir, no alcohol on full moon days.”  Can that be?   Though it was a bummer, we got over the shock fairly quickly.  Soft drink anyone?

Moonrise Over Leh, Ladakh

     
     The ride from Sarchu to Leh was full of majestic mountain scenes.  The entire time we were never below 12,000 ft.  One of the distinctions of Leh is that the three highest road passes in the world are within a few hours drive.  On this journey we passed over the 17,582 ft Tangling La pass.  It is wondrous for sure.  Though trite in written word, one does feel as though they are on top of the world.  One struggles for breath, fights between the urge to take it all in or get the hell out of there.  The scene is as barren as the driest desert.  Almost nothing grows.  Snow covered peaks do rise above, but no snow was on the ground where we were.  That will not be the case in a couple of weeks.  

Tangling La
Ladakh, India

     As we got closer to Leh, Vijay, for the first time, seemed to be pressing it a bit.  We didn’t stop for lunch as we had always done, and several times we whizzed by sites that I thought might be interesting.  It all became clear upon our arrival in Leh.  When I asked him where he was spending the night he indicated that his boss had called him and instructed him to drive back to Manali that night.  A 14 + hour journey over roads that were clearly no picnic.  I couldn’t believe it.  

     It seems that similar problems and struggles prevail in all corners of the globe.  In this instance, I am referring to the maintenance of culture and the environment.  Today in Leh we had an extended conversation with a young man, who was Ladakhi, about the current situation in Leh.  He bemoaned the changes that are taking place.  The disregard for the cultural heritage, the problems that surround the environment and the attempts to right them.  Environmentally speaking he indicated that the Indians themselves were the worst problem.  It seems the Indian tourists have a general disregard for trash and what to do with it.  He indicated that the foreign governments, and Western tourists, have introduced a different way of thinking in this regard, and they are in the process of trying to bring change to fruition.  For those of us who live in Guatemala, this sounds all too familiar.  The beginnings are there, but it is a long educational struggle.  

     In Leh they are really trying to encourage tourism.  As always, that is a double-edged sword.  Our young man bemoaned the fact that many of the old historic buildings are getting torn down and replaced by hotels.  I asked if there were government preservation laws and he said, “yes, but no one pays any attention to them.”  Again, I don’t think this a problem unique to Leh, India.  The trend is everywhere.  Of course what has to be remembered is that countries, towns and communities need to protect their history and culture, and protect its cleanliness, as that is what draws the tourists in the first place.  

9/20/16    

     Speaking of maintaining one’s culture, as luck would have it we came to Leh during the Ladakh Festival.  It is a once a year event that highlights the culture of the different tribal regions of the district of Ladakh.  Cynthia and I didn’t know what to expect, but we were excited none-the-less.  And we were not disappointed.  As it turned out the gathering point for the beginning of the inaugural parade was not far from our hotel.  As it came into sight we discovered we had arrived none too early.  All of the groups, with their traditional clothing, were preparing for the parade.  The traditional costumes were just incredible.  

Ladakhi Wedding Attire
Silver, turquoise, coral, pearl, bone jewelry

Of course the women are what really stood out.  Cynthia and I looked at each other and almost simultaneously said “what plain Janes we Westerners are!”   Rather than try and describe the elaborate skirts, hats and jewelry, I think Cynthia’s photos offer a better summary of what we saw.   

Ladakhi Wedding Attire
Silver, turquoise, coral, pearl jewelry

     

Beautiful Ladakhi Women
Silver, turquoise, coral jewelry; sheep-hide capes

Ladakhi Woman with Traditional Dress
Silver, turquoise, coral and pearl jewelry; sheep-hide cape

     After watching the preparation for the opening parade (which included a well-dressed yak and camels), we made our way to the polo field where the opening ceremony was going to take place.  The sun was intense.  Not a cloud in the sky and 11,500 ft make for a sun that won’t let you escape it.  As we were a bit far from the festivities we decided to move in closer.  It was then we discovered that they had set up a shaded area with a sign indicating “tourist."  

Well-dressed Yak

Though it was already packed we made our way to the back and eventually got seating.  Yes!  The traditional dances and singing followed.  They were not complex dances but with the addition of the elaborate traditional dress, they were fascinating. 

Men's Wedding Attire

The live drumming and the horns added a texture that drew

one’s attention like a magnet.  Surprisingly a lot of the commentary was in English.  Again, it made it clear that there was a concerted effort to appeal to, and bring, the tourists.  One official’s speech was totally about how many hotels and restaurants there now were in Leh, and what a fabulous tourist destination it was.  Well, I can’t disagree with him, but I do question his focus.  As we left the venue Cynthia and I felt so lucky to have seen, and been a part of, this festival.  

     In the spirit of keeping our blogs a reasonable length, our adventures in and around Leh will continue soon.  Please watch for our next blog which will go live within the next day or so.     

Tents, Two-Tracks and Monasteries

9/9/16

     One of the things about traveling is leaving one’s comfort zone.  Well, believe me, Cynthia I have done that.  It is now 7:30 p.m.  The altitude is 14,100 ft.  We are in a tent, every piece of clothing we have is on our bodies, blankets on top of us, and I can say that I am not extremely cold.  Not warm mind you, but not freezing either.   The tent is actually kind of cool.  

Chandra Tal Tent

Tent City, 14,100 ft
Chandra Tal, Spiti, Himachal Pradesh

It has a double raised bed which is pretty damn comfortable.  It also has a closed off bathroom with a real toilet. The double bed is important as Cynthia and I are going to need each other's body warmth as the midnight hour approaches.  There is a single light bulb and there is electric (solar of course) from 6:30 to 10:30 pm.  Dinner is served at 8:30 (our chef’s name is Red Diamond).  Damn that seems late as I think that is about the time we’d be seeking the sanctuary of the covers, not to budge until the sun comes up.   Oh well.  

     I am finding the experience somewhat zen.  We can’t charge our Kindles and their batteries are kaput, thus no reading.  So for the last two hours we have just chilled.  Literally.  I do not want either of us to get altitude sickness.  I had it once in Cuzco, Peru.  Flew from sea level to 11,000 ft and wanted to see the town immediately.  I was with Callie and my daughter.  As soon as we arrived Nicole said “I am going to the hotel and take a nap”.  Callie and I said “no way” we are seeing the town.  Big mistake.  Vomited for the next 24 hours.  Nicole could barely keep from gloating.  This time we took a bit of a walk, felt it immediately, and returned to the chairs outside of our tent.  Just sat there and took in the scene, which by the way is not too shabby.

     We are in a place called Chandra Tal (Moon Lake) in the Spiti Valley.  Lonely Planet says it is one of the most remote places on the planet where there is road access.  You don’t have to convince me.  It is known as one of the few stop over points available, and there is a beautiful lake about a 1/2 hour hike from the campsite.  

Chandra Tal (Moon Lake)
Spiti Valley, Himachal Pradesh, India

The lake is incredible in that in the morning it is completely still.  As I crested the hill I didn’t even see it as the totally realistic reflection of the mountains made me think they WERE the mountains.  The effect was almost dizzying.  

     The day started by doing a repeat of the Rohtang La that I described in a previous blog.  Only one road, so no choice.  We loved it as much the second time.

JB & Cyn, Rohtang La
Himachal Pradesh, India

If I thought that road was a challenge, I had seen nothing yet.  Almost immediately after going over the pass the road completely goes South, and I don’t mean the direction.  It basically turns into a one lane two track and stays that way the entire time.  When a car comes from the other direction it seems like two abreast will never happen, but somehow (often by backing up) the drivers do the impossible.

Spiti Two Track
Spiti Valley, Himachal Pradesh

The landscape changed completely as well.  All the rain falls on the Manali side of the range and here it is a moonscape.  Beautiful but barren.  Very few living plants.  The “road” follows a river which is fed by the snowcapped peaks that surround us.  Several times today we saw water cascading from dizzying heights.  

     One of the highlights today was where we had lunch.  Another tent.  Felt like a nomad.  The photos will tell a better story than I can.

Lunch Time, Spiti Valley
Himachal Pradesh, India

Dal, rice, chapati and chai (sweet spiced tea with milk).  Tasted great.  Ok, battery running out, almost time for dinner.  

9/13/16

     We are back at Chandra Tal.  We have spent the last 4 days exploring the Spiti valley.  In Manali we hired a car and driver, the only way to get to the locations we have been.  Seven nights and eight days later we will arrive in Leh.  The only places that I have experienced that are more remote than this are on the two treks I have taken.  One in Northern Thailand (and into Myanmar) and the other in the Annapurna Range of Nepal.  Both required many days of some serious hiking.  This place is accessible by road, though not until the 90’s.  But that seems to make it no less barren and remote.  I don’t want to overdue the road description but it deserves further mention.  A dirt and dusty two track, sometimes with drop offs from staggering heights, always with stupefying views in all directions.  

     Our driver, Vijay, is skilled and confident.  Damn good thing.  Just for fun I asked the manager of our hotel who arranged the driver, "is he cute?"  She said yes, but shy.  Well good thing as I think Cynthia got a minor crush on him.  I could see why as, indeed, he is cute!  

Vijay with rare smile

  

Vijay and our Fine Ride

     Motorcyclist ply the route as well, as it is somewhat famous in Northern India for the extremely adventurous minded.  I love riding, but I must admit to no desire to tackle this route, even if I were twenty years younger (or even forty!).  The roads are obviously treacherous and the dust would be a total deal killer.  One sees a moto go by and the rider is covered head to toe.  Scarf wrapped around the face, helmut shield down.  For me it would take the fun out of it.  

     When I first saw the Dolomites in Northern Italy I remember thinking that I had never seen anything like them.  The same goes for Spiti.  One comes here for the incredible scenery, but also for the monasteries.  Some over a thousand years old, they were founded by the Buddhist Monks of Tibet.  Two of them, the Key Monastery and Dhankhar Monastery are placed on treacherous precipices that must have created incredible, seemingly insurmountable, obstacles to build.

Key Monastery
Kara, Spiti Valley, Himachal Predesh

But create them they did.  If the idea was to imagine and create a place so solitary that the mind would have no distractions, they certainly succeeded.  These two monasteries felt ancient.  They were built with mud, rocks and straw.  The Dhankar Monastery actually had more of a cave like feel.  Very little, almost nothing actually, has been done to bring them into the modern age.

     (I just have to interject.  It is now 4 o’clock in the afternoon.  The weather seems to be changing.  The winds are whipping across the flat plain that we are camped upon.  Dark clouds are forming over the snow covered glaciers that not long ago, it seemed we could almost touch.  We have had to retreat to the inside of our tent.  The walls are dancing freely as the winds take control.  It gives one a slight idea of what it would be like here when true winter sets in.  Uninhabitable in a word.  They close this entire camp site in 10 days and I think it will be none too soon!)

     The rooms were dark, particularly in the Tabo Monastery established in 996 A.D.  But we brought flashlights and were totally amazed at the wall murals depicting a wide range of Buddhist themes.  They were so well preserved, a lot due to the semi darkness in which they resided.  There were two things about each monastery that stood out.  One was the physical place itself, and the other was the experiences we had while inside.  The monks were totally welcoming.  Most of the time we were the only tourists there.  
    

Cynthia and the Monks
Dhankar Monastery, Spiti Valley, Himachal Pradesh

In the Dhankar Monastery we literally felt our way up into the main temple area, climbing mud stairs that would be a lawyers dream in the U.S.   A chanting sound is really what gave us direction.  One monk greeted us in the small gathering area and we sat and listened to the chant, accompanied by a constant drum and interspersed with a very bass-like horn.  After perhaps 1/2 hour the chanting ceased (the monks were in a small private meditation room directly off of where we were sitting) and perhaps 6 or 7 of them came into the area we were in.  They each smiled in greeting.  They then served us a chai tea and we stayed with them for another hour.  Conversation was limited as they had very little English and we had zero Spiti, but that did not stop us from having a lively discussion.   It seemed that an understanding was reached on several subjects.  Perhaps at times it’s better if you don’t speak the same language!

Dhankar Monastery
Spiti Valley, Himachal Pradesh

      
     In the Tabo Monastery we found our way into the main temple.  Diffused light was streaming in from a window created in the ceiling, but one’s vision was minimal.  The room measured perhaps 25’ x 20’.  On the surrounding walls of the entire temple were sculptures depicting the various Buddhist deities.  Individually they fascinated and the overall effect was incredible.  In the temple was one presiding monk and perhaps 16 village tribal women.  Cynthia and I took seats on the cushioned low bench to better understand what was happening.  Such an interesting interchange was taking place.  The monk would speak for a while, then ask a question.  The women would give a lively reply.  What amazed Cyn and I was the obvious humor that was being exchanged.  The monk relished having the women laugh, and they would in turn exchange humor with each other.  Being in no hurry to leave we spent another hour just drinking in the atmosphere and the conversation, of which of course we understood nothing.  And yes, there was a short break at which time chai was served to all, including Cynthia and I.  I know, as we continue our journey, there will be other, perhaps more well known, monasteries to visit.  But the experiences we have had so far have been priceless.  

Puja, real desiccated sheep
Dhankar Monastery, Spiti Valley, Himachal Pradesh

     Tomorrow morning early we will continue our journey to Leh.  It will take us three days to traverse perhaps 300 km.  We will be going over passes that measure more than 17,500 ft.  Right now we are healthy, engaged with our experience, and doing a very good job of “Being Here Now”.    

9/15/16

     Another tent city.  This one is at 13,750 ft and is called Sarchu.  If one is going from the last main village (Keylong where we stayed last night) to Leh, it is too far to go in one day.  Add to that that there are no villages in that entire distance (the last gas station said no more gas for 365 km!), one never gets below 12,000 ft, and you don’t want to sleep in the car, thus these small tent “cities”.  This tent is perhaps a bit fancier than the last.   A bit larger, double windows with screens, a particle board floor in the bathroom instead of stones, and better made.  Odd thing is, this place is the most expensive place we have stayed since we left Manali.  R3,500 ($53).  Now that does include dinner and breakfast, but still, we are in a tent for Christ’s sake!  In the other small villages we have stayed in we sought out the nicer hotel and were paying between $12 and $23 a night.  Now we aren’t cheaping out mind you, that was all there was available.  I also hope the price comes with a better chef than we had in Chandra Tal.  The food there pretty much sucked.  I know we are in the boonies but I remember meals on the Annapurna trek, several days hike from a road, where the meals were scrumptious, and one had a choice.  Dal and rice with a chapati was about all that was shaking at Chandra Tal.  

     Of interest to Cynthia and I is that these tent cities get completely dismantled in about 2 weeks from now.  It is impossible to traverse the road, especially through the passes that reach almost 18,000 ft., once the snows start.  They truck everything out, then bring it back in June.  I was wondering if they dug new holes for the toilets or just reused the same ones.  I’ll have to ask!

     The main and only road between the Spiti Valley turnoff and Leh seems much better than the Spiti Valley roads.  At least so far.  A lot of it is paved, and that which isn’t is in decent shape, comparatively speaking.  I am quite surprised because after experiencing the ruts they called roads in Spiti, I was expecting the worse.  Tomorrow we will have an 8 hour journey to arrive in Leh, Ladakh.  We traverse the two highest passes, some reading says the highest road in the world.  Yikes!  Right now the climate is fairly comfortable, though we have retired to the tent.  Once the sun goes down I know the temperature will drop like the preverbal rock.  Word is the pipes that feed the toilet and sink are frozen, thus we have buckets of water to flush.  Tonight we have a little fortifier for the cold.  Last night in Keylong I bought a small bottle of Scotch!  A blend, but single malt just wasn’t on the menu! 

9/16/16

     We have arrived in Leh.  Both Cynthia and I are upbeat, especially given last night.  The temperatures plummeted to the 20’s and sleep was almost impossible to come by.  It wasn’t the cold, I believe it was the altitude.  We went to bed about 9, and stayed in bed until 6:30.  During those 9-1/2 hours I literally slept about 1/2 hour.  It was a first for me.  If I ever do anything like that again I will have some serious sleeping pills with me.  Believe me, it was not fun.  But today was a ride of a lifetime and first impressions of Leh are very upbeat.  More about Leh and today’s ride in the next blog! 

Cyn and JB Making Plans
Tabo, Spiti Valley, Himachal Pradesh

   

Tradition, Falls, Fort and Mr. Style

     The blogs are behind.  I actually have a lot written, and Cynthia has some fabulous photos, but we have been in the boonies and there just has not been internet.  Since Cynthia and I don't believe in making a blog too long we are dividing it up.  So, next time we have internet there will be another blog.  Know that today, 9/15/16 all is well and we are headed to the high passes (over 18,000 ft !)

9/5/16

     As any culture that has been conquered or exiled can attest (Mayan, Hmong, American Indian, Tibetan) it is difficult to keep the old traditions alive.  The young tend to get assimilated into the world of the conquerer through many different means.  Some are brutal (ie the Chinese in Tibet), some are much more subtle, but just as effective.  The Tibetans are now struggling with this very real reality.  The refugees who were born in Tibet and knew of the culture first hand are becoming more of a rarity.  As related in the last blog, even the Tibetans still living in Tibet are having a very difficult time maintaining the traditional ways.  

Norbulingka Institute 
near Dharamsala, Himachal Pradesh  

Stupa at Norbulingka Institute

This was exemplified by our visit to the Norbulingka Institute, whose mission is to teach, revere, and maintain aspects of the Tibetan culture, particularly traditional Tibetan Arts.  There were many appealing things about the Institute.  Physically they have done a splendid job.  Water features appear through out, from ponds with Koi, to waterfalls making prayer wheels continue their perpetual motion.  A combination of lush gardens and interesting architecture make the setting a mesmerizing place to leisurely stroll about.   Perhaps more important, one can visit the various artists who are being trained in the ancient arts.  Woodcarving, Thanka painting, metal working, carpet weaving and Thanka appliqué.  

Thanka Painter, Norbulingka Institute

Wood Carver, Norbulingka Institute

Many of these apprenticeships are intensive three or four year programs.  The hope, of course, is that through these teachings an integral part of the Tibetan Arts will be maintained into the future.  Though unrelated to the cultural and artistic side of this endeavor, it is self sustaining.  The institute, through its guest house, restaurant and gift shop not only pay for itself but generate enough income to help other endeavors whose mission it is to maintain the Tibetan way.  Quite impressive I must say.  

      Though Cynthia and I are somewhat of a rarity (American, blond and bald) in the parts of India we are traveling in, we are by no means the only tourists.  The Indians like to travel their country and McLeod Ganj is a destination.  Besides the Tibetan complex there are other interesting sites to see.  One is the Bhagsu Waterfall.  The actual fall itself is like many others we have all seen.  Not huge, but the falling flow of water is mesmerizing and always an attraction.  

Bhagsu Waterfall
Bhagsu, Himachal Pradesh

      What made this place interesting was immersing oneself in the Indian tourist scene.  From the small town of Bhagsu one follows a 1 km path up to the falls.   On the way one encounters families having lunch by the river, young men and women discarding their traditional dress for jeans, shirts and blouses (and actually holding hands!), tons of selfies, at least 1/2 dozen requests of Cynthia and I to be in their photos, several invitations to be friends on Facebook, goats looking for handouts, and oh yes, some beautiful views of the falls and the valley into which it tumbles.  We got down just as the rain began, grabbed a cab back to McLeod, and felt we had had a worthwhile adventure.  

    

9/6/16

      Mentioned in Lonely Planet and highly recommended by a local, we did a day trip to the Kangra Fort.  As is sometimes the case, the history of the fort was more interesting than the fort itself.  The setting is certainly beautiful.  It was built at the confluence of two rives, better for defense and for growing the food necessary to support the life of the occupants. 

Main Square with 400 year old tree
Kangra Fort, Kangra, Himachal Pradesh

     This fort is the oldest one in India, dating back to some 1,500 BC.  Amazing enough it basically remained in the same family through the centuries.  Its history is one of wars.  Time after time invading forces tried to capture the fort, including Alexander the Great in the third century BC.  Defending it was apparently a full time job.  There were several gruesome tales connected to these battles, including the skinning alive of one of the conquerers when the family recaptured it, many of which are outlined in the small museum attached to the fort.  In the end, mother nature proved to be stronger than all the other adversaries.  In 1905 there was a devastating earthquake in the region.  It destroyed much of the structure, including the many storied inner sanctuary of the royal family. 

Kangra Fort before 1905 earthquake

     Interesting enough once the English left in 1947 the fort was given back to the original family.  They run it as a tourist attraction among there many other enterprises.  On the wall of the family museum they trace their lineage back to well before the fort was built in 1,500 BC.  Jeez, I can hardly go back more than two generations!!

       Now I don’t mean to be obsessed by the monkeys, but lets face it, if you are from the States or Europe you don’t know shit about monkey business.  We saw a trace of them in Manali but here in McLeod Ganj they are front and center.  Where Cynthia and I are staying there is a dining terrace that is in front of our “valley view” window.  Actually it is the only thing about our room that we don’t like.  We would be better off on an upper floor, which we couldn’t get.  So be it.  So this early evening we are having our 6 o’clock beer and were somewhat startled when suddenly a monkey did Mr Acrobat on the railing right outside of our room.  Well that led us to watching the scene unfold.  A male monkey, big (Cynthia said to me “did you see the testicles on that guy”?) decided to perch on the table where two monks had just eaten. 

Mr. Style

     He posed, then posed some more.  Soon he was joined by three females and five baby monkeys.  They all just played and scampered about as the Main Man just took in the scene.  Ok, we have the Main Man, three wives, and a bunch of kids.  I think this guy adheres to the old ways in that he believes in keeping a harem!  Or maybe he’s Mormon?

     

9/8/16

     Our change of plans is definite and today finds us back in Manali.  As mentioned, there are only two overland routes that access Leh, Ladakh.  One leaves from Srinagar, Kashmir and the other from Manali, Himachal Pradesh.  Our desire to go to Kashmir was foiled.  The political situation in Kashmir has not gotten better.  I have no regrets, partly because I think it would have been extremely restrictive there, and partly because we are excited about the alternative.  In regard to Kashmir they had a bust of a “summit” meeting on the 4th.  The separatists refused to meet, two more young men were killed in the demonstrations, and it just doesn’t seem to be getting better.  Although the curfew has been lifted in many places, movement is still restricted. Stores, gas stations and schools are closed, and it flat out just didn’t seem to be a good idea to go.  End of that story.