Meandering through Manali

8/31/16

      A definite surrealism engulfs the Kullu Valley.  As mentioned we are still in the monsoon season, however that word does not describe the reality.  Monsoon, to me, means “holy shit” the rains are about to wash us away.  No, this is a gentle rain, almost a mist, the low clouds playing tag with the mountains.  Cynthia and I are up early, as seems to be our routine, drinking coffee (yes, Starbucks instant!) and reading the news.  Actually not unlike our routine at home.  Neither one of us seems bothered by the rain, in fact I couldn’t be more relaxed.  I think Manali brings that on.  Not to mention our hotel.  

Kullu Valley, Himachal Pradesh, India

      The initial negative reaction has now given way to a true fondness for the place.  As I step out of our room I am greeted by a light smell that takes me back to boyhood.  Spending summers on the family farm with the farm house being more than 100 years old.  Hard to describe that smell.  Musty but not negatively so.  Just kind of old.  Hey, I can’t hold that against it given that I am no spring chicken myself. 

Sunshine Guest House
Old Manali, Himachal Pradesh, India

A daily highlight is when the family’s father feeds the geese, ducks and chickens.  A crescendo of squawking can be heard from our room and continues until every speck of grain is gone.  This takes place in the well tended, but somewhat wild, garden filled with hydrangeas, dahlias, marigolds, and chrysanthemums.  Adding to the interest is the family of monkeys lounging on the roof beyond our hotel.  As with all monkeys I am sure they are full of mischief, but have not chosen us as a target yet.

Monkey Time

     
      Anyway, Manali.  Summer retreat for the Indians, come see snow for the first time in one’s life, see the majesty of the green mountains, shop till you drop if you are so inclined.  It has an Indian style hippiness to it.  Young travelers (though definitely the off season) both from India and beyond.  Narrow streets with unknown destinations.  The first day walk through the giant cedar forest was magical.  The diffused light show, the raging Beas river letting you know it was not to be messed with, an occasional person walking with the same slow gait that you found yourself assuming.  

JB in the forest of deodar cedars
Manali, Himachal Pradesh, India

The “tourist” sites are few.  We went to a couple of temples that glare in their simplicity.  The highlight of the main temple could well have been the women with their angora rabbits, aggressively placing them in your hands, or in my case on each shoulder, charging for the privilege of a photo.  They were so warm to the touch, smiles could not escape the face. 

JB with Angora Rabbits

     
      Though we have not tired of Indian style food yet, Manali has restaurants to fit all tastes.  Last night we went to a small intimate place that had an eclectic menu with an Italian flare.  Most tables were full, mostly young Indians, mostly drinking Tuborg beer and smoking the hoouka pipe.  Just tobacco my friends, though I am sure other substances would be available.  So as we begin to see the end of our Manali stay, we are definitely enjoying it.  Not action packed, but who needs it to be.  Our traveling legs are beginning to find their gate.

      Speaking of getting our traveling legs, yesterday we did our first bus ride, and we are not talking luxury style.   Passing through acres of apple orchards ripe with fruit, we went to the small village of Naggar.  It is nestled high on the valley wall overlooking the Beas river.  As is often the case the journey was as rewarding as the destination.  One hour fifteen minutes of narrow rough roads (as in, is this bus really NOT going to tumble down the mountain), interesting characters, and a feeling of blending in with the locals.  As is standard in many parts of the world the bus is such the deal.  Definitely designed with the people in mind.  120 rupees (less than 2 dollars) for two, round trip.  A taxi? 1,600 rupees ($25). The journey was a slice, the destination interesting but not overwhelming, and the scenery spectacular.  

Girls on the Bus

      There has definitely been one dilemma that has thrown us a bit into a state of discombobulation.  In a word, Kashmir.  Whereas right now we are in North East India, Kashmir is in the North West.  It borders with Pakistan.  Kashmir was to be one of our major destinations.  A beautiful mountain region, the large Dal lake with inviting houseboats to comfort your stay, a culture unique from others in India, and many nearby villages beckoning for a visit.  As many of you know Kashmir has been in a state of unrest, in one form or another, since Indian independence in 1947.  Of course, once again, religion raises its sometimes ugly head.  Hindu India, Muslim Pakistan and Kashmir.  On our previous trips to India we could not even go to Kashmir.  The border was either closed or the environment was so unfriendly that it made a visit impossible.  But that has changed in recent years.  Peace has, for the most part, prevailed and the local tourist industry has been thriving.  Then came July 8.  The Indian forces killed a young separatist leader.  Violent demonstrations broke out, the Indian army reacted with force killing some 60 demonstrators over a period of 6 weeks.  The tourist trade, per the Times of India, pretty much came to a halt.  

      On arriving in India Cynthia and I had not yet made a firm decision on whether we would continue with plans to go to Srinagar, the capital city of the state of Kashmir.  Our initial inquiries, however, were not positive.  The people who were in the tourist industry said don’t go.  It is not fear that is driving our decision, it is the fact that a curfew prevailed, stores were closed, road blocks in place and gas stations closed.  Movement seemed impossible.  As a result we made the decision not to go.  We cancelled reservations and set about figuring a plan “B”.  Then came yesterday’s headlines in the Times of India.  The curfew had been lifted because the situation was improving.  So now what?  At this point Cynthia and I are going to take it a day at a time.  No decision has to made right now.  We’ll keep our eye on the news, email with Nadim who is watching the situation, and hope for the best.  We are in the lucky position of having either option a positive.  We go and experience a situation totally unique, or we find other destinations that will hold charm as well.  Vamos a ver.