Goodbye Myanmar

     Today we flew back to Yangon and have one night here before flying to Phnom Penh in Cambodia.  Though I think we are ready to leave, it is not because Myanmar has not been welcoming, as well as fascinating.  I believe we have seen a lot of the country, actually a lot more than many of its residents.  This is not uncommon when traveling, but it also reflects the realities of Myanmar.  It is by large a poor country, with a very small middle class, with little technology and mainly an agricultural population.  There is no doubt that the burgeoning tourist industry is huge for the people.  Everywhere we went there were vendors, mainly aiming for tourists, selling the creations of Myanmar.  Unfortunately many of them had exactly the same thing.  I wrote of the intense approach of selling in Bagan.  I did not find it like that in other parts of Myanmar, or I should say not so "hard sell".  While I am glad for the influx of foreign currencies coming into the country, there is also a not so good side of this.  Many times we were told by locals that the big hotels and many of the larger "tourist businesses" were owned by military families.  They, as well as our travel book, would encourage visitors to support the locals.  Frankly it was hard to tell when we were doing that and when we were not.  Sometimes, of course, it was obvious.  One would go to an obscure temple or pagoda and there would be literally tens, or even hundreds, of vendors set up on basic tables or blankets trying to eke out a living.  Rough, is all I can say. But as I have repeatedly found in third world countries poverty does not equal sadness or desperation.  In general, the people we encountered were going about their lives good naturedly and with smiles on their faces.  To me it is one of the reasons to travel in the third world.  Life is simpler, more down to earth, and one is in touch with the basics of life.  This is not fertile ground for depression.
     A few observations in Myanmar that I found interesting.  Money.  Early on I saw that our driver Soe carried his wallet tucked in the back of his loungyi.  The worst place to carry it in terms of theft.  Finally I decided to mention it to him.  At first he didn't understand what I was getting at.  When he did get my meaning he looked at me as though I didn't have a clue what I was talking about.  Then he explained that in Myanmar theft was basically unheard of.  Not  an issue.  This was made even clearer in a store we frequented in Inlae Lake.  The "cash register" was an open basket on the counter.  When anyone in the store sold something they would toss the bill(s) in the basket and fish out the change, if there was any.  No watching the basket, no one person in charge of cash, no attemp to hide the basket.  It was hard for me to get used to.  Now you know that I love Guatemala and feel very safe there but the Coke truck has a machine gun toting guard riding shotgun!!!!
     The roads in Myanmar that are in the middle of nowhere have tolls.  It's amazing.  One is riding along, haven't seen a car in 10 minutes, and there is a bar across the road with a man, or more likely a young woman, collecting a toll.  Who authorizes it, or where the money goes who knows.  Another strange thing.  The driver side of the car is on the right, like in the UK, but the traffic pattern is the same as in the States.  So you drive in the right seat on the right side of the road.  No wonder they use their horns so much!!
     Want to know by far what the predominant advertising sign in Myanmar is?  Myanmar Beer and Grand Royal Whiskey.  I mean they have a lip lock on signage space.  They are everywhere.  Any little roadside shack that sells anything has a Myanmar Beer and Grand Royal sign out front.  No exception. (The beer is basically a Bud, but for $2.50 the Grand Royal Whiskey is nothing but smooth!)  Made me wonder if  that was the military's way of controlling the population!!  That is a weak joke as actually we saw very little drinking going on in Myanmar.  No drunks on the street, drinking tea and coffee in the cafes.  So I am not sure where the signage fits in.  Maybe the companies are owned by military families?
     And finally a note to all you motorcycle friends.  Motorcycles and scooters are a major form of transportation in Myanmar.  They even have a helmut law!  But apparently some years ago a military general had a bad run in with a moto in Yangon.  Now they are outlawed in the city.  Not a cycle or scooter in sight!  In the States they can't even keep the laws requiring helmuts despite the fact that head injuries are a huge problem.  So what is the conclusion?  Is there some advantage to a government that can actually make a decision instead of stalemate, stalemate?  No, I don't think there is.
     So the three of us are happy and looking forward to a new adventure.  Many exciting things await us in Cambodia.  We are half way through our trip.  Kathy is feeling a bit punky today, but I believe she will make a quick recovery.  She is quickly becoming an experienced traveler.  Thanks for reading the blog, it is a joy to write it.  A big hug from Cynthia and I to all our friends in the States and Guatemala.     JB