There has definitely been a change of pace on our trip. This is our 6th day on the Gulf of Thailand. Three different locations. Kep, Kampot, and Sihanoukville. I have mentioned how the accomodations on this trip have been an uptick over other S.E. Asia adventures. Well in Kep we got to the hotel, rather out of the way both from the ocean and anything else, and discovered we had gotten the dates wrong. So "no room at the inn". We got back in the Tuk Tuk and put our fate in the hands of the driver. He took us to this place that was right on the water. Immediately we were charmed. (JB was charmed. Cynthia not so much.) Then we looked at the room. Oh yeah, that it what they used to look like. Small, dark, no AC, needed a paint job, but heh, $20 for the three of us. Sure, we'll take it. It did have a fan and that puppy ran 24/2, the entire time we were there. Most of the time the one sheet they gave you seemed like too much. On the second night we were there Cynthia went to use the bathroom. A frog was in the toilet. Scared the hell out of her. There was also a mosquito in the room. The frog lept out of the toilet and I would like to think ate the mosquito!! Kep did have fabulous sunsets and a row of restaurants that are famous for their crab. One sits over the water, watches the sun go down, and eats the local sea food. We enjoyed it but decided it was time to move on after 2 nights. Frankly, the realities of the room were too much.
Kampot isn't too far and we grabbed a tuk tuk for $15 and headed out. We had a room booked, and celebrated as we walked into the clean, cool, bright surroundings. If one wanted to do a serious hang Kampot wouldn't be a bad place to do it. It's not on the ocean, but is on the Kampong Bay River. They have done a great job preserving their riverfront and there are a number of restaurants and bars to take care of one's needs. There isn't a lot to do in Kampot, but when we read up on it it seemed that two things stood out. One was the cave with the small temple inside dating from the 6th century, and the other was the "firefly river tours". The cave turned out to be an absolutely spine jarring one hour tuk tuk ride across a flat terrain dotted with deep green patches of a crop we couldn't identify. Again, the journey was just as interesting as the cave. A look into the life of the poorer farmers of the Cambodian countryside. Cynthia and Kathy spied a beautiful kingfisher as we were enroute. The cave itself was interesting enough but we spent about 15 minutes there. Worth it? Well our backs recovered so I guess I would say yes.
That late afternoon we got tickets for the firefly boat ride up the river. We set out with a sceptical attitude and that's a good thing. The tour was supposed to last 2 hours, until 7 p.m. We figured no problem we'll eat afterwards. About an hour and one half going up river the boat turned around. No fireflys yet. As the hunger and thirst began to set in, and we were truly in the boonies, the boat headed for the shore. When close to the shore the boatman said, look fireflys!! Well the whole boat teatered as everyone scrambled to see the fireflys. Sure enough, up in the trees were a few fireflys. Now not to be too critical but Cynthia and I have seen what fireflys can be like. In Guatemala they are so bright (albeit only for about a month before rainy season) that they look like people with a flashlight. I also remember in the fields outside of State College, PA seeing an entire meadow absolutely on fire. It was incredible. But, no tours!! We made it back to the "dock" (actually there wasn't one, you just scrambled off the bow and with luck found the shore!) about 8 and just made it before hunger took over. Of course we did miss cocktail hour which was a real bitch. Worth it? Yes if you like cruising the river as the sun goes down.
The next morning we got in a mini bus and headed to Sihanoukville. They apparently took some pointers from the Guatemalans on this as they crammed 14 passengers AND their luggage into the van. Unbelievable. Made me a believer in buses as at least one has a seat to themselves. We arrived in Sihanoukville, a bit stiff, about 2 hours later. We got to our hotel and were thrilled. Overlooks the small pool, is clean and bright, and a 5 minute walk to the beach. I again rented a moto and have been out the last two days exploring the nearby areas. On our first night we made our way along the walkway between the very low key restaurants and the ocean. A sign saying 50 cent drafts caught our attention. Now that is a deal. Couldn't pass it up. They were good on their word. 6 beers, $2. We also took a look at the menu. Quite extensive including their "happy menu". Yep, just what you are thinking. An entire page of various drinks and dishes cooked with the herb. The last entry was "joint", $1.50. The ladies definitely cautioned me about embibing, saying it could come back to bite me in the ass. So I didn't, but then we have one more night left!!
This is our last beach day. Tomorrow we fly to Siem Reap and Angkor Wat, something I have been looking forward to for many years and the culmiination of Kathy's trip. Next entry will tell the tales of the temples. Know that we are healthy, happy, loving the road, and ready for the next adventure. JB
Thursday, February 26, 2015
Saturday, February 21, 2015
Cambodia with Mixed Emotions
When we crossed Mao Tse Toung Blvd., I knew we weren't in Kansas anymore. For that matter we weren't in Myanmar either! Yes, we have arrived in Cambodia, a country so much more complex than I had understood before. The long elegant dresses of the young women in Myanmar have given way to short skirts and shorts. The nondescript local restaurant can now be a Dominoes or a KFC. The neighborhood where our hotel was had more coffee shops in one block than any place this side of Seattle. So the good news is that Phnom Penh is bustling and full of life, in a good way. Evil, however, lurks in its history. Cambodia has the misfortune to be squeezed between two countries that are much larger and stronger then it is: Vietnam and Thailand. In the olden days it was much larger, but over time it has lost much territory to its neighbors. I won't go into a history lesson here as I am just trying to understand it myself, but clearly there is a very dark side to it. During the Vietnam War the more powerful North Vietnamese began using both Laos and Cambodia as jumping off points for their attacks on the Americans and South Vietnam. The American military, not liking this obviously (and not telling the American people) began bombing both Laos and Cambodia. The civilians fled to the city for protection as they were being killed in large numbers. Exit the Americans from Vietnam and enter Pol Pot in Cambodia, one of the true deamons of history. Pol Pot invisioned a "pure" communist society based on a classless system with the peasant and agrarian population being its core. So he marched into Phnom Penh on April 17, 1975 and, as I have read elsewhere, turned the calendar back to zero. One of his first acts was to send all city dwellers to the country to be agricultural workers, some would say slaves. During the three and half years of Pol Pot's rule 1/4 of the population died. The causes ran from starvation to mass executions. Thus the Killing Fields, which is the one label that most of us identify with Cambodia. Intellectuals, artists, professionals, were all singled out for death. It is reported that 90% of the country's artists and artisans were executed including one of the most famous actresses and a famous singer. It goes beyond what most of us can imagine, or frankly care to imagine. The world seemed to turn a blind eye. I was no youngster in 1976 and I remember hearing nothing of this atrocity. The North Vietnamese "liberated" the country in 1979, but the U.S., and much of the Western World, still recognized Pol Pot's government as being legitimate, mainly because of our animosity towards Vietnam.
So that is a brief idea of what the current population of Cambodia is coming out of, or has been for 25 years now. And they are doing a good job of it. As mentioned Phnom Penh is a vibrant city with lots of energy and an active population. The arts are making a comeback, as witnessed by the short opera we attended at the National Museum. The riverfront is packed with hotels and restaurants seemingly doing a good business. So I would come back to Phnom Penh and get to know it better. It is definitely worth a visit.
While Cambodia is looking to the future they are not fogetting their past. The three of us spent yesterday visiting the notorius Tuoi Sleng Museum and the Killing Fields of Choeung Ek. The former is the prison where Pol Pot's government tortured its citizens and the latter is the place of mass executions. One may ask why go to depressing places like this? Well, we felt not to go was turning our backs on the realities of the country. We also felt we wanted to honor those who had died, and get a better understanding of the place and people we were visiting. We have no regrets about going. The prison (Tuoi Sleng) was bleak. Tiny cells, chains, instruments of torture. But there was such an uplifting side as well. Our guide, a woman of 50 years, had been a child living in Phnom Penh when the Khemer Rouge took over the city. She was separated from her family, saw the loss of her father and siblings, yet told the story in such a poignent way. She shared her memories and feelings with us to the degree that by the time we left there was no doubt a connection had been made. And then the Killing Fields. It was such a profound and touching experience. They have done an amazing job in regard to showing it to visitors. It is not in your face, as one might expect. Everyone is given a pre-recorded headset into which you enter numbers corresponding to prompts along the pathway. They ask visitors to maintain silence, which they do. So one walks around the 3 or 4 acre grounds listening to and learning about the realities that took place there. It was touching, thought provoking, and was, amazingly, incredibly peaceful. The main shocking part was the memorial that had been built to house the skulls of the victims. But even that was something we did not want to avoid. As we were leaving it felt as though we were awakening from a meditative state. Not depressed, just once again amazed at the horrible things that man is capable of.
As mentioned, last night we actually saw an opera. A tradegy no less, but with plenty of life's lessons to be had. The costuming was so elegant, the dancing classic and beautiful to watch. Then we headed to the river front and had a very satisfying Indian dinner. Sat and watched the Mekong River. Now that certainly brings up memories of the past (luckily it was the first time I had ever seen it). We got on a bus at 7 this morning (definitely not luxury) and now sit next to the Gulf of Thailand listening to the gentle lap of the waves. We'll be in Southern Cambodia for six days. I've rented a moto for exploring, we've had a beer and it's only 3:30 p.m., and we are glad for the change of pace. We are happy, healthy, and full of life. Once again, thanks for reading the blog!!! JB
So that is a brief idea of what the current population of Cambodia is coming out of, or has been for 25 years now. And they are doing a good job of it. As mentioned Phnom Penh is a vibrant city with lots of energy and an active population. The arts are making a comeback, as witnessed by the short opera we attended at the National Museum. The riverfront is packed with hotels and restaurants seemingly doing a good business. So I would come back to Phnom Penh and get to know it better. It is definitely worth a visit.
While Cambodia is looking to the future they are not fogetting their past. The three of us spent yesterday visiting the notorius Tuoi Sleng Museum and the Killing Fields of Choeung Ek. The former is the prison where Pol Pot's government tortured its citizens and the latter is the place of mass executions. One may ask why go to depressing places like this? Well, we felt not to go was turning our backs on the realities of the country. We also felt we wanted to honor those who had died, and get a better understanding of the place and people we were visiting. We have no regrets about going. The prison (Tuoi Sleng) was bleak. Tiny cells, chains, instruments of torture. But there was such an uplifting side as well. Our guide, a woman of 50 years, had been a child living in Phnom Penh when the Khemer Rouge took over the city. She was separated from her family, saw the loss of her father and siblings, yet told the story in such a poignent way. She shared her memories and feelings with us to the degree that by the time we left there was no doubt a connection had been made. And then the Killing Fields. It was such a profound and touching experience. They have done an amazing job in regard to showing it to visitors. It is not in your face, as one might expect. Everyone is given a pre-recorded headset into which you enter numbers corresponding to prompts along the pathway. They ask visitors to maintain silence, which they do. So one walks around the 3 or 4 acre grounds listening to and learning about the realities that took place there. It was touching, thought provoking, and was, amazingly, incredibly peaceful. The main shocking part was the memorial that had been built to house the skulls of the victims. But even that was something we did not want to avoid. As we were leaving it felt as though we were awakening from a meditative state. Not depressed, just once again amazed at the horrible things that man is capable of.
As mentioned, last night we actually saw an opera. A tradegy no less, but with plenty of life's lessons to be had. The costuming was so elegant, the dancing classic and beautiful to watch. Then we headed to the river front and had a very satisfying Indian dinner. Sat and watched the Mekong River. Now that certainly brings up memories of the past (luckily it was the first time I had ever seen it). We got on a bus at 7 this morning (definitely not luxury) and now sit next to the Gulf of Thailand listening to the gentle lap of the waves. We'll be in Southern Cambodia for six days. I've rented a moto for exploring, we've had a beer and it's only 3:30 p.m., and we are glad for the change of pace. We are happy, healthy, and full of life. Once again, thanks for reading the blog!!! JB
Tuesday, February 17, 2015
Goodbye Myanmar
Today we flew back to Yangon and have one night here before flying to Phnom Penh in Cambodia. Though I think we are ready to leave, it is not because Myanmar has not been welcoming, as well as fascinating. I believe we have seen a lot of the country, actually a lot more than many of its residents. This is not uncommon when traveling, but it also reflects the realities of Myanmar. It is by large a poor country, with a very small middle class, with little technology and mainly an agricultural population. There is no doubt that the burgeoning tourist industry is huge for the people. Everywhere we went there were vendors, mainly aiming for tourists, selling the creations of Myanmar. Unfortunately many of them had exactly the same thing. I wrote of the intense approach of selling in Bagan. I did not find it like that in other parts of Myanmar, or I should say not so "hard sell". While I am glad for the influx of foreign currencies coming into the country, there is also a not so good side of this. Many times we were told by locals that the big hotels and many of the larger "tourist businesses" were owned by military families. They, as well as our travel book, would encourage visitors to support the locals. Frankly it was hard to tell when we were doing that and when we were not. Sometimes, of course, it was obvious. One would go to an obscure temple or pagoda and there would be literally tens, or even hundreds, of vendors set up on basic tables or blankets trying to eke out a living. Rough, is all I can say. But as I have repeatedly found in third world countries poverty does not equal sadness or desperation. In general, the people we encountered were going about their lives good naturedly and with smiles on their faces. To me it is one of the reasons to travel in the third world. Life is simpler, more down to earth, and one is in touch with the basics of life. This is not fertile ground for depression.
A few observations in Myanmar that I found interesting. Money. Early on I saw that our driver Soe carried his wallet tucked in the back of his loungyi. The worst place to carry it in terms of theft. Finally I decided to mention it to him. At first he didn't understand what I was getting at. When he did get my meaning he looked at me as though I didn't have a clue what I was talking about. Then he explained that in Myanmar theft was basically unheard of. Not an issue. This was made even clearer in a store we frequented in Inlae Lake. The "cash register" was an open basket on the counter. When anyone in the store sold something they would toss the bill(s) in the basket and fish out the change, if there was any. No watching the basket, no one person in charge of cash, no attemp to hide the basket. It was hard for me to get used to. Now you know that I love Guatemala and feel very safe there but the Coke truck has a machine gun toting guard riding shotgun!!!!
The roads in Myanmar that are in the middle of nowhere have tolls. It's amazing. One is riding along, haven't seen a car in 10 minutes, and there is a bar across the road with a man, or more likely a young woman, collecting a toll. Who authorizes it, or where the money goes who knows. Another strange thing. The driver side of the car is on the right, like in the UK, but the traffic pattern is the same as in the States. So you drive in the right seat on the right side of the road. No wonder they use their horns so much!!
Want to know by far what the predominant advertising sign in Myanmar is? Myanmar Beer and Grand Royal Whiskey. I mean they have a lip lock on signage space. They are everywhere. Any little roadside shack that sells anything has a Myanmar Beer and Grand Royal sign out front. No exception. (The beer is basically a Bud, but for $2.50 the Grand Royal Whiskey is nothing but smooth!) Made me wonder if that was the military's way of controlling the population!! That is a weak joke as actually we saw very little drinking going on in Myanmar. No drunks on the street, drinking tea and coffee in the cafes. So I am not sure where the signage fits in. Maybe the companies are owned by military families?
And finally a note to all you motorcycle friends. Motorcycles and scooters are a major form of transportation in Myanmar. They even have a helmut law! But apparently some years ago a military general had a bad run in with a moto in Yangon. Now they are outlawed in the city. Not a cycle or scooter in sight! In the States they can't even keep the laws requiring helmuts despite the fact that head injuries are a huge problem. So what is the conclusion? Is there some advantage to a government that can actually make a decision instead of stalemate, stalemate? No, I don't think there is.
So the three of us are happy and looking forward to a new adventure. Many exciting things await us in Cambodia. We are half way through our trip. Kathy is feeling a bit punky today, but I believe she will make a quick recovery. She is quickly becoming an experienced traveler. Thanks for reading the blog, it is a joy to write it. A big hug from Cynthia and I to all our friends in the States and Guatemala. JB
A few observations in Myanmar that I found interesting. Money. Early on I saw that our driver Soe carried his wallet tucked in the back of his loungyi. The worst place to carry it in terms of theft. Finally I decided to mention it to him. At first he didn't understand what I was getting at. When he did get my meaning he looked at me as though I didn't have a clue what I was talking about. Then he explained that in Myanmar theft was basically unheard of. Not an issue. This was made even clearer in a store we frequented in Inlae Lake. The "cash register" was an open basket on the counter. When anyone in the store sold something they would toss the bill(s) in the basket and fish out the change, if there was any. No watching the basket, no one person in charge of cash, no attemp to hide the basket. It was hard for me to get used to. Now you know that I love Guatemala and feel very safe there but the Coke truck has a machine gun toting guard riding shotgun!!!!
The roads in Myanmar that are in the middle of nowhere have tolls. It's amazing. One is riding along, haven't seen a car in 10 minutes, and there is a bar across the road with a man, or more likely a young woman, collecting a toll. Who authorizes it, or where the money goes who knows. Another strange thing. The driver side of the car is on the right, like in the UK, but the traffic pattern is the same as in the States. So you drive in the right seat on the right side of the road. No wonder they use their horns so much!!
Want to know by far what the predominant advertising sign in Myanmar is? Myanmar Beer and Grand Royal Whiskey. I mean they have a lip lock on signage space. They are everywhere. Any little roadside shack that sells anything has a Myanmar Beer and Grand Royal sign out front. No exception. (The beer is basically a Bud, but for $2.50 the Grand Royal Whiskey is nothing but smooth!) Made me wonder if that was the military's way of controlling the population!! That is a weak joke as actually we saw very little drinking going on in Myanmar. No drunks on the street, drinking tea and coffee in the cafes. So I am not sure where the signage fits in. Maybe the companies are owned by military families?
And finally a note to all you motorcycle friends. Motorcycles and scooters are a major form of transportation in Myanmar. They even have a helmut law! But apparently some years ago a military general had a bad run in with a moto in Yangon. Now they are outlawed in the city. Not a cycle or scooter in sight! In the States they can't even keep the laws requiring helmuts despite the fact that head injuries are a huge problem. So what is the conclusion? Is there some advantage to a government that can actually make a decision instead of stalemate, stalemate? No, I don't think there is.
So the three of us are happy and looking forward to a new adventure. Many exciting things await us in Cambodia. We are half way through our trip. Kathy is feeling a bit punky today, but I believe she will make a quick recovery. She is quickly becoming an experienced traveler. Thanks for reading the blog, it is a joy to write it. A big hug from Cynthia and I to all our friends in the States and Guatemala. JB
Sunday, February 15, 2015
Final Mandaly Days and Inlae Lake
For the first time on our trip the internet has really gone South. Thus the space between posts. My last entry had us in Mandalay, Myanmar's second largest city. We enjoyed our stay there and at the same time were ready to leave. A couple of highlights. About a half hour from Mandalay is the ancient city of Inwa. One takes a very short boat ride across a canal and from there it is by horse and buggy. The sights are mainly ancient temples and structures ruined by time. This, of course, gives them a majestic look that is hard to duplicate in the newer temples. We felt we were truly out of the city, the countryside was beautiful and quite serene. That is except for all the other horse and buggy carts plying the same few dirt roads. We actually got caught in a horse and buggy traffic jam!! Now that's a first.
In one of our few night time adventures we went to see the Moustache Brothers. Though now there is only one main brother in the act, they were Myanmar's version of the Marx Brothers. That is until they parodied the Myanmar military generals in a performance before Aung San Suu Kyi where they refused to temper their humor, even though they knew they were in the spotlight. Two of the brothers did 7 years hard labor as a result. Despite the recent death of one of the founding brothers, Lu Maw still delivers an energetic show of slapstick, of which we could understand about 60%. His wife and sister perform traditional dance and are quite good. All Western audience for sure, but it is a family affair and one has to respect the fact that they go at it with gusto.
In the nearby town of Amarapura one finds the longest teak footbridge in the world (1300 yards). But people don't go to see the bridge, they go to see the sunset. It was such the scene. A mix of people that was hard to fathom. From Buddhist priests to tribal women, tons of locals, and a scattering of Westerners. Watching the crowd watch the sunset over the river was just plain fascinating. It was one of the things in Mandalay I would definitely repeat.
On Wednesday morning we caught a very short flight from Mandalay to Inle Lake, actually the culmination of the Myanmar part of the trip. One stays in a town, Nyaungshwe, which is not on the lake but connected by canal. It's kind of a funky town, but I like it. Not too big, a good selection of restaurants, yet a real example of Myanmar life. Most of the livelihood comes from fishing, farming and tourists. We have taken two boat trips and well may do another one tomorrow, our last day here at the lake. There have been interesting sights, mainly in the small village of Inthein. The canals that lead into the village are fascinating. People living in stilt borne houses, some bird and animal life; the guy in the book compares it to the river ride in Apocolyse Now. I wouldn't go that far, but it did get our attention in a very positive way. One climbs up a hill outside the village that is the location of 1054 ancient stupas from the 17th and 18th century. A grouping like this is always fascinating, from the individual stupa to taking in the scene as a whole. Some of them have been restored, some not. There is no question that we found the ones that were nearing shambles as the most interesting. Loved this spot and the little village, and would return for sure.
Allow me to talk about one other place that we have visited which is located about 1 1/2 hours out of Nyaungshwe. When one goes to places you hear about you really don't know what to expect. We had read about this cave that held many Buddhas. Well lord knows we have seen a ton of Buddhas and pagodas, so we were torn as to whether to go or not. So glad we did. The Shwe Oo Min Natural Cave and Pagoda was mind blowing. One enters this cave (not low key, a giant spider sculpture greets the visitor, apparently to appease the spiders that got displaced when the Pagoda was built) and is astounded by Buddhas of every size, shape and material imaginable. One starts out in an area called the maze, and they mean that literally. You wind from one path to another just to find yourself at a dead end. Once you pass through the maze you go deep into the cave with Buddhas located in every nook and cranny. This is juxtaposed with the natural stalagmites and stalactites that are eye catching in themselves. Quite the sight for the eye. To add interest the Buddhas are "sponsored" by groups or individuals from all over the world. They are adding new ones continuously. Actually most of the ones we saw had been added since 2000. I think that is due to the fact that Myanmar has been so much more "open" since then. I know if I was connected to a Buddhist sect in the U.S., that is one thing I would strive for. Have a Bhudda with a plaque of recognition in the Shwe Oo Min Cave. It would make a statement to someone, somewhere!
So two more days in Myanmar. On Tuesday (your Monday) we fly back to Yangon for the day, then the next morning head to Cambodia. I have some general observations that I would like to make about the country, but they will wait until the next entry. There is one thing on my mind that I would like to share. My good friend since 8th grade, Dave Kuhn, who married my cousin, just got out of the hospital but is still in rough shape. I want to send him the best of wishes and let him know he is in my thoughts.
The three of us are healthy, happy, mostly inspired, and having a fabulous trip. JB
In one of our few night time adventures we went to see the Moustache Brothers. Though now there is only one main brother in the act, they were Myanmar's version of the Marx Brothers. That is until they parodied the Myanmar military generals in a performance before Aung San Suu Kyi where they refused to temper their humor, even though they knew they were in the spotlight. Two of the brothers did 7 years hard labor as a result. Despite the recent death of one of the founding brothers, Lu Maw still delivers an energetic show of slapstick, of which we could understand about 60%. His wife and sister perform traditional dance and are quite good. All Western audience for sure, but it is a family affair and one has to respect the fact that they go at it with gusto.
In the nearby town of Amarapura one finds the longest teak footbridge in the world (1300 yards). But people don't go to see the bridge, they go to see the sunset. It was such the scene. A mix of people that was hard to fathom. From Buddhist priests to tribal women, tons of locals, and a scattering of Westerners. Watching the crowd watch the sunset over the river was just plain fascinating. It was one of the things in Mandalay I would definitely repeat.
On Wednesday morning we caught a very short flight from Mandalay to Inle Lake, actually the culmination of the Myanmar part of the trip. One stays in a town, Nyaungshwe, which is not on the lake but connected by canal. It's kind of a funky town, but I like it. Not too big, a good selection of restaurants, yet a real example of Myanmar life. Most of the livelihood comes from fishing, farming and tourists. We have taken two boat trips and well may do another one tomorrow, our last day here at the lake. There have been interesting sights, mainly in the small village of Inthein. The canals that lead into the village are fascinating. People living in stilt borne houses, some bird and animal life; the guy in the book compares it to the river ride in Apocolyse Now. I wouldn't go that far, but it did get our attention in a very positive way. One climbs up a hill outside the village that is the location of 1054 ancient stupas from the 17th and 18th century. A grouping like this is always fascinating, from the individual stupa to taking in the scene as a whole. Some of them have been restored, some not. There is no question that we found the ones that were nearing shambles as the most interesting. Loved this spot and the little village, and would return for sure.
Allow me to talk about one other place that we have visited which is located about 1 1/2 hours out of Nyaungshwe. When one goes to places you hear about you really don't know what to expect. We had read about this cave that held many Buddhas. Well lord knows we have seen a ton of Buddhas and pagodas, so we were torn as to whether to go or not. So glad we did. The Shwe Oo Min Natural Cave and Pagoda was mind blowing. One enters this cave (not low key, a giant spider sculpture greets the visitor, apparently to appease the spiders that got displaced when the Pagoda was built) and is astounded by Buddhas of every size, shape and material imaginable. One starts out in an area called the maze, and they mean that literally. You wind from one path to another just to find yourself at a dead end. Once you pass through the maze you go deep into the cave with Buddhas located in every nook and cranny. This is juxtaposed with the natural stalagmites and stalactites that are eye catching in themselves. Quite the sight for the eye. To add interest the Buddhas are "sponsored" by groups or individuals from all over the world. They are adding new ones continuously. Actually most of the ones we saw had been added since 2000. I think that is due to the fact that Myanmar has been so much more "open" since then. I know if I was connected to a Buddhist sect in the U.S., that is one thing I would strive for. Have a Bhudda with a plaque of recognition in the Shwe Oo Min Cave. It would make a statement to someone, somewhere!
So two more days in Myanmar. On Tuesday (your Monday) we fly back to Yangon for the day, then the next morning head to Cambodia. I have some general observations that I would like to make about the country, but they will wait until the next entry. There is one thing on my mind that I would like to share. My good friend since 8th grade, Dave Kuhn, who married my cousin, just got out of the hospital but is still in rough shape. I want to send him the best of wishes and let him know he is in my thoughts.
The three of us are healthy, happy, mostly inspired, and having a fabulous trip. JB
Monday, February 9, 2015
Cruising the River and Climbing the Hill
Have you had that experience where you have to wake up really early, say 4 a.m., and you wake at 1 a.m. wide awake, finally get back to sleep, and are wiped out when 4 a.m. actually rolls around? Well that was me Saturday morning (your Friday night). We seemed to wake up the hotel desk person, had to have him call the cab we thought we had already arranged, and set out for the Ayeyarwady River jetty. We had booked the "Express" River Boat from Bagan to Mandalay not knowing whether we had made a mistake by choosing 12 hours on the river vs 4-1/2 hours on the bus. Well we didn't. We left the jetty (the boarding was accomplished by scrambling up a couple of planks) in pitch dark. As we looked around we realized there were only 7 passengers. It was freezing. At least on Myanmar standards. The first thing the crew did was give us a blanket. As we realized how few of us there were, we immediately hit the blanket stash for more warmth. This continued for about 1-1/2 hours until we were greeted by a spectacular sunrise. Everyone's mood picked up, we got some so-so coffee, a bun and a hard boiled egg. From there the trip up the river was such a pleasure. An incredible variety of river vessels, life along the shore, and the calming, constant hum of the engine. The day passed so much quicker than we expected and before we knew it we were in Mandalay.
Mandalay is large city and large cities can be difficult for many reasons. Disorientation at first, not knowing your way around, feeling lost in the confusion. Well that just didn't seem to happen. Because of my reading about the high season and the lack of traveler's
infrastructure here, Cynthia and I decided months ago that it would be best to book our hotels ahead of time. That meant planning the trip. Most people we knew who had gone to Myanmar had gone on pre -planned booked trips. We didn't want to do that. We knew we had 28 days so we got out a calendar and basically laid out our schedule. Not the way I like to travel, but it seemed prudent for the Myanmar part of the journey. Well one of the upsides of doing that is arriving in a strange city and knowing exactly where you are going. Frankly I had never done that before. When one is traveling cheap, as I had always done in the past, everything seemed spontaneous. This trip is certainly more upscale than I have done before and it has its advantages. Like arriving at the hotel after 12 hours on the river and being presented with a wet cold towl and a refreshing glass of juice!! Are you kidding me? After checking out the overpriced rooftop hotel restaurant we crossed the street and had a good meal. Yes!
Our first day in Mandalay was spent going up Mandalay Hill. Seemed like a good place to begin, get a perspective of the city. As we all know the journey itself is oft times more important than the destination. Well this journey took us up 1729 steps!! No, I didn't count them, the book had forwarned us. Made going up to our place in Paxanax (for those of you who don't know we have 146 stair steps, and that is once one gets to our entrance!) seems like a piece of cake. But what a slice of life. Of course there is a temple at the top, and an uncountalbe number of Buddhas on the way up, but it's like a village. People live on these stairs, sell there wares, take care of their kids. It's a total slice. I will say I used one of the scariest toilets I have seen in my life, and believe me that is saying something. Anyway, a leisurely 2-1/2 hours later and we were at the top. The temple stood out because of, well its guaudiness. Lights and mirrors. Some dazzling effects actually. We looked at the overview of the city, did the rounds and found our way down. Not as easy as one might expect as the twists and turns were numerous. Did we come up this way or that way? It might not have mattered except for the fact that one does it barefoot and we had to come out at the right place in order to retrieve our shoes.
Next we checked out the largest book in the world. But that will have to wait for the next entry. We have been here two full days. Today was a trip for sure but that will also have to wait. Know that we are healthy, having fun, and thrilled to be here. JB
Mandalay is large city and large cities can be difficult for many reasons. Disorientation at first, not knowing your way around, feeling lost in the confusion. Well that just didn't seem to happen. Because of my reading about the high season and the lack of traveler's
infrastructure here, Cynthia and I decided months ago that it would be best to book our hotels ahead of time. That meant planning the trip. Most people we knew who had gone to Myanmar had gone on pre -planned booked trips. We didn't want to do that. We knew we had 28 days so we got out a calendar and basically laid out our schedule. Not the way I like to travel, but it seemed prudent for the Myanmar part of the journey. Well one of the upsides of doing that is arriving in a strange city and knowing exactly where you are going. Frankly I had never done that before. When one is traveling cheap, as I had always done in the past, everything seemed spontaneous. This trip is certainly more upscale than I have done before and it has its advantages. Like arriving at the hotel after 12 hours on the river and being presented with a wet cold towl and a refreshing glass of juice!! Are you kidding me? After checking out the overpriced rooftop hotel restaurant we crossed the street and had a good meal. Yes!
Our first day in Mandalay was spent going up Mandalay Hill. Seemed like a good place to begin, get a perspective of the city. As we all know the journey itself is oft times more important than the destination. Well this journey took us up 1729 steps!! No, I didn't count them, the book had forwarned us. Made going up to our place in Paxanax (for those of you who don't know we have 146 stair steps, and that is once one gets to our entrance!) seems like a piece of cake. But what a slice of life. Of course there is a temple at the top, and an uncountalbe number of Buddhas on the way up, but it's like a village. People live on these stairs, sell there wares, take care of their kids. It's a total slice. I will say I used one of the scariest toilets I have seen in my life, and believe me that is saying something. Anyway, a leisurely 2-1/2 hours later and we were at the top. The temple stood out because of, well its guaudiness. Lights and mirrors. Some dazzling effects actually. We looked at the overview of the city, did the rounds and found our way down. Not as easy as one might expect as the twists and turns were numerous. Did we come up this way or that way? It might not have mattered except for the fact that one does it barefoot and we had to come out at the right place in order to retrieve our shoes.
Next we checked out the largest book in the world. But that will have to wait for the next entry. We have been here two full days. Today was a trip for sure but that will also have to wait. Know that we are healthy, having fun, and thrilled to be here. JB
Saturday, February 7, 2015
Balloons over Bagan
I wake up to the unmistakeable sound of a hot air balloon being filled with, well hot air. I know it is 6:55 a.m. and I am in Bagan. I look out our hotel window and see no less than 10 balloons slowly rising and drifting by. Huge I might add, as our room is apparently very close to the launching site. I marvel at the wonder of it, and consider it my wake up call. Of course we would love to do it, see all the temples in the morning light, still, calm, only the sound of whoosh as the burners refill the balloon. I get out my Myanmar book to read up on it. Sounds great until I get to the price. $350 for an hour. Nope. Guess I will find another way to enjoy the temples of Bagan.
And we did. The two main ways to cover the vast area on which the 4,727 temples of Bagan reside is by electric scooter and horse and buggy. The ladies did both, I stuck with the scooter. I have never really seen another sight like Bagan. Between 1,000 a.d. and 1,300 a.d., while Europe was blinded by the Dark Ages, Myanmar was creating spectacular things. Temples that literally boggle the mind. They are laid out in an area perhaps 10 miles square, all with conical steeples that rise to varying heights. The insides, due to the passage of time, are for the most part barren, though they have their Buddhas and what is left of the intricate frescos that used to cover the walls. They vary in size from small structures, maybe 20 feet high, to giant ones that one can see from miles away. The ones I loved could be climbed by steep staircases, giving one a 360 degree view of the vast complex. Temple after temple greet the eye. Hardly any other type of structure sullies the sight. Fields of sand separate the temples. A sight to behold.
But the temples do not come without a price, and I don't mean financial. At all the main temples, and many of the minor ones, one is bombarded by vendors selling their wares. Cynthia and I are used to this, living in a tourist destination in Guatemala. But there the people keep their space and take no for an immediate answer. Not in Bagan. One can be followed, made to feel somewhat guilty if you don't buy, given the feeling of no escape. It did color our experience, no doubt about it. One either approaches it with a desire to buy, or with blinders on heading immediately to the door of the temple. It didn't by any means ruin the experience, but it did make it less pleasant than it could have been.
I did love the scooter. Reminded me of my motor cycle days which have, for the most part, passed me by. It allowed me to get to some of the more remote areas and enjoy the solitude. The two ladies were going to ride as well but Kathy wiped out on the first try (she hadn't ridden before and it does require a knack), so we went two up and Cyn rode solo. The next day Cyn and Kathy went by horse and buggy. Kathy only got a few scrapes but I could tell it bugged her to the point she wanted to get back on, but the opportunity did not allow.
For us the scene changed in Bagan. Tons of tourists. At least on Myanamar standards. We even got pizza!!! But it was a slice and I have no regrets about making it one of our destinations. We left this morning on a river boat which pulled away from the dock, in the dark, at 5:20 a.m. But that's for the next installment. Right now we are all happy, healthy and glad to be here. JB
And we did. The two main ways to cover the vast area on which the 4,727 temples of Bagan reside is by electric scooter and horse and buggy. The ladies did both, I stuck with the scooter. I have never really seen another sight like Bagan. Between 1,000 a.d. and 1,300 a.d., while Europe was blinded by the Dark Ages, Myanmar was creating spectacular things. Temples that literally boggle the mind. They are laid out in an area perhaps 10 miles square, all with conical steeples that rise to varying heights. The insides, due to the passage of time, are for the most part barren, though they have their Buddhas and what is left of the intricate frescos that used to cover the walls. They vary in size from small structures, maybe 20 feet high, to giant ones that one can see from miles away. The ones I loved could be climbed by steep staircases, giving one a 360 degree view of the vast complex. Temple after temple greet the eye. Hardly any other type of structure sullies the sight. Fields of sand separate the temples. A sight to behold.
But the temples do not come without a price, and I don't mean financial. At all the main temples, and many of the minor ones, one is bombarded by vendors selling their wares. Cynthia and I are used to this, living in a tourist destination in Guatemala. But there the people keep their space and take no for an immediate answer. Not in Bagan. One can be followed, made to feel somewhat guilty if you don't buy, given the feeling of no escape. It did color our experience, no doubt about it. One either approaches it with a desire to buy, or with blinders on heading immediately to the door of the temple. It didn't by any means ruin the experience, but it did make it less pleasant than it could have been.
I did love the scooter. Reminded me of my motor cycle days which have, for the most part, passed me by. It allowed me to get to some of the more remote areas and enjoy the solitude. The two ladies were going to ride as well but Kathy wiped out on the first try (she hadn't ridden before and it does require a knack), so we went two up and Cyn rode solo. The next day Cyn and Kathy went by horse and buggy. Kathy only got a few scrapes but I could tell it bugged her to the point she wanted to get back on, but the opportunity did not allow.
For us the scene changed in Bagan. Tons of tourists. At least on Myanamar standards. We even got pizza!!! But it was a slice and I have no regrets about making it one of our destinations. We left this morning on a river boat which pulled away from the dock, in the dark, at 5:20 a.m. But that's for the next installment. Right now we are all happy, healthy and glad to be here. JB
Thursday, February 5, 2015
Car Trip and Monkey Time
This evening finds us well after a day exploring the ancient temples of Bagan. But to digress. We made the decison to come north via car, and then fly back south to Yangon at the end of our stay. So we had a two day road trip from Yangon to Bagan. The trip was through mostly flat, and very rural, farm land. We saw the critical rice paddies, teak forests, watermelon fields, rubber trees, and sugar cane. Myanmar does feed itself, and not a tractor in sight. Most of the fields are being worked by human labor and brahma bulls. Soe, our driver, called them working cows. Actually they are beautiful animals, distinguished by the large hump that defines their neck.
The small villages we passed through were very basic with much of the population living in very austere conditions. This is not surprising as the same housing is found in most rural third world locations. The roadside restaurants we stopped at had limited menus and were surprised to have western clients. Usually there were no menus and often it was "would you like fried chicken or chicken curry". Not Thai curry but a bit blander mix of chicken and rice. Now that said, they always bring at least six small side dishes that embellish the chicken dish. We, of course, had no idea what they were so it was trial and error. Also at these restaurants Soe, our driver, felt comfortable eating the way he is used to, with his hands. Chop sticks and traditonal, for us, silverware were also available.
The trip went smoothly for the most part. We did sit along side of the road for an hour while Soe fixed the horn. The horn was an absolute critical part of his driving. He beeped it every time he passed anything, and any time we were passed. So when it went out he was bummed. Much fiddling and help from passers by got the job done. Whew!!!! Another thing that stood out was passing a Hindu festival where they do incredible body piercing. I had experienced one in Malaysia years ago and have never forgotten it. The men go into trance like states and get their bodies pierced with hooks of all different sizes. When removed by the priest, no blood. Though we only saw the happenings through the car window it definitely got our attention. The whole scene was wild and bizarre. We barely made it through the throngs of people. We finally arrived in Bagan late, after dark, which I hate. Arriving in a strange place at night just sucks. No feel for the place and hard to get one's bearings. We did have a hotel reservation so our destination was clear, but after a long day little else was.
Our first day in Bagan was our last day with Soe. We had made the decison before to hire him for an extra day in order to visit Mt Popa, about two hours out of Bagan. It is the premier place for Nat worship (I'm afraid you are going to have to look it up). Mt Popa is actually a village, but it is home to Popa Taung Kalat, a volcanic plug that juts up out of the ground 2,400 feet. Of course on top of that is a temple, accessed by 777 steps. The entire place was quite the scene. Throngs of people, mostly Burmese, with a smattering of tourists from all over the place. We climbed the 777 steps, accompanied the entire way by the large population of monkeys who make the temple their residence. Ones first impression is "oh aren't they cute", but by the end one is in agreement with the locals who fight them off with sling shots. Talking aggressive!! We saw a monk with a bunch of bananas feeding them and they were literally jumping on his back! (Never forget the time in India when they stole Callie's underwear off the clothes line.) Anyway, we got up the steps like 50 year olds and really found the entire scene fascinating.
So the next blog will actually be about Bagan. On Saturday, Friday to you, we'll be on a riverboat to Mandalay. More soon. Again, the three of us are healthy, happy and having a great time. JB
The small villages we passed through were very basic with much of the population living in very austere conditions. This is not surprising as the same housing is found in most rural third world locations. The roadside restaurants we stopped at had limited menus and were surprised to have western clients. Usually there were no menus and often it was "would you like fried chicken or chicken curry". Not Thai curry but a bit blander mix of chicken and rice. Now that said, they always bring at least six small side dishes that embellish the chicken dish. We, of course, had no idea what they were so it was trial and error. Also at these restaurants Soe, our driver, felt comfortable eating the way he is used to, with his hands. Chop sticks and traditonal, for us, silverware were also available.
The trip went smoothly for the most part. We did sit along side of the road for an hour while Soe fixed the horn. The horn was an absolute critical part of his driving. He beeped it every time he passed anything, and any time we were passed. So when it went out he was bummed. Much fiddling and help from passers by got the job done. Whew!!!! Another thing that stood out was passing a Hindu festival where they do incredible body piercing. I had experienced one in Malaysia years ago and have never forgotten it. The men go into trance like states and get their bodies pierced with hooks of all different sizes. When removed by the priest, no blood. Though we only saw the happenings through the car window it definitely got our attention. The whole scene was wild and bizarre. We barely made it through the throngs of people. We finally arrived in Bagan late, after dark, which I hate. Arriving in a strange place at night just sucks. No feel for the place and hard to get one's bearings. We did have a hotel reservation so our destination was clear, but after a long day little else was.
Our first day in Bagan was our last day with Soe. We had made the decison before to hire him for an extra day in order to visit Mt Popa, about two hours out of Bagan. It is the premier place for Nat worship (I'm afraid you are going to have to look it up). Mt Popa is actually a village, but it is home to Popa Taung Kalat, a volcanic plug that juts up out of the ground 2,400 feet. Of course on top of that is a temple, accessed by 777 steps. The entire place was quite the scene. Throngs of people, mostly Burmese, with a smattering of tourists from all over the place. We climbed the 777 steps, accompanied the entire way by the large population of monkeys who make the temple their residence. Ones first impression is "oh aren't they cute", but by the end one is in agreement with the locals who fight them off with sling shots. Talking aggressive!! We saw a monk with a bunch of bananas feeding them and they were literally jumping on his back! (Never forget the time in India when they stole Callie's underwear off the clothes line.) Anyway, we got up the steps like 50 year olds and really found the entire scene fascinating.
So the next blog will actually be about Bagan. On Saturday, Friday to you, we'll be on a riverboat to Mandalay. More soon. Again, the three of us are healthy, happy and having a great time. JB
Tuesday, February 3, 2015
Buddhist Temples
There is no doubt that if one is experiencing Myanmar (for the record, that's meanmar, we had been prouncing it wrong, mYanmar) then you go to temples. It's so much a part of the culture. Mostly, though not exclusively, Buddhist temples. So one sees literally thousands of replicas of the Buddha. Sitting, reclining, always smiling, androgynous, with lipstick that is bright and ranges in color. I wouldn''t call it idol worship, but it's close. One thing that does stand out to me is the difference between the Christian idol, Jesus Christ, and the Buddha. The image of Christ that is put forth is grim to say the least. Jesus on a cross, nails in his hands and feet, a look of pain and anguish on his face. Contrast that to Buddha. Smiling, lip stick on, sometimes reclining in an extremely sensual pose. Now I am not knocking Christianity. It is just an observation. Actually my understanding is that the philosophy of Buddha is that there will be pain and sufferring in life. It is inevitable. But rather than Jesus suffering for mankinds sins, the Buddha says go in to your mind to relieve that suffering. That is where salvation is.
So we have been on a temple tour, among other things of course. A few highlights. The Golden Rock. This is a huge rock precariously balanced on a the side of a mountain. By all rights it seems that that rock should just tumble down. On top of the rock sits a small Buddhist Temple. An entire village has been created around the rock. One gets up there in the back of a truck, about a 40 minute ride. No other way. People are crammed in to the max and since it is a pilgramage sight (everyone must go in their lifetime) there is no lack of attendees. The truck will not go until it is stuffed. I felt much more cramped than I do on a United flight, and that is saying something. A bit more trivia about the rock. It is said that a hair of the Buddha is what keeps it from falling. They also say that one can pass a string underneat the entire rock. Being a skeptic, well what can I say.
Another Temple that did blow me away was the Kawgun Caves. It is an incredible rock formation that does form a cave. But the outstanding thing are the literally thousands of small Buddhas that have been carved and attaced to the walls. They go up to dizzying heights at mind boggling angles. How on earth did they do that? Inside the cave are an array of Buddhas in various poses. This cave was located in the middle of no where. If one were busing it, it would be an entire days adventure to experience it. Who and why it was created I have no idea.
After returning from the South we spent one more quick night in Yangon, then headed North. After a mostly interesting two day road trip we have arrived in Bagan. This area is famous for its vast array of ancient temples and is one of the most visited sights in Myanmar. So the scene has changed a bit. More on the ride here and Bagan in the next post.
Know that we are all healthy and loving being on the road. JB
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