Finally, we just gave it up and walked where the wind took us. No question Antalya is a popular place. Actually for good reason, as it hugs the Mediterranean, is very hip, and definitely has a history.
On the second day in Antalya we wanted to visit the Antayla Museum, which got great reviews. To get there we wanted to take the tram. Wanting to, and actually doing it for the first time, are two different things. We had an idea of what we needed to do, but damn if we could find the tram stop. Finally we had success and a couple of locals, who liked Cynthia, helped us get the required tram pass. In our experience the the tram is a great way to see any city. Antalya was no exception. The streets were vibrant, many of the stores totally upscale, parks along the way, and the last stop was the museum. That made it easy.
As mentioned in previous blogs, the museum scene in Turkey is totally together. They have so much to draw upon, and they do it so well. The Antayla museum has an amazing collection of large Roman sculptures, which have been some of our favorites the entire time in Turkey. Cynthia’s photos will show examples.
The play began. All in Turkish, of course, but easy to follow. The leader has a musical contest, he chooses a winner, the loser gets pissed, puts a curse on the leader, who then grows donkey ears. Now he is the buffoon of the group and they all make fun of him. Of course it has a happy ending and all the children leave with a smile on their face. Cynthia and I exited the museum not far behind, feeling we had a wonderful museum experience. You can view a short video of a portion of the play here: https://photos.app.goo.gl/Q4mLtdNkhFzfpYRi9 Due to a technical problem, you will have to reload the blog after viewing the video.
Frankly, I don’t think we really gave Antalya the attention it deserved, but both Cynthia and I were ready to move on. We had done the Old Town, and just didn’t have the will to push much beyond that.
Our final destination before returning to Istanbul for the flight back to the U.S. was Cappadocia. In our pre-trip research we considered this to be the potential highlight of the trip. We weren’t disappointed. The drive from Antalya to Cappadocia was the longest we had on the entire trip. Most of it was over flat, rather boring, scenery. That certainly ended when we arrived in Goreme.
What it is also known for are the underground cities built by the Christians in the 3rd century. They were definitely a place of refuge as they were being heavily persecuted at the time. We went into one of the cave cities that went down seven stories! It was fascinating, but an extreme physical challenge at the same time. Try bending over (maximum height 4 feet in most passages) in a narrow tunnel while going up some 85 not well cut stairs. And one couldn’t see shit. I’m glad I experienced it, but wouldn’t give it a go again.
As I have relied on so many times in this blog, Cynthia’s photos can give a much better idea of what we saw in Cappadocia than my writing can. There was so much variety, from what they call the fairy chimneys (Cynthia thought they were totally phallic) to castles built on huge rock mounds.
It is incredible that people lived in these rock caves, but supposedly the first humans did so from the sixth century BC onward.
Goreme, the main town that people stay in, was a bit of a trip itself. Hotels and restaurants galore. Almost every hotel had the word cave incorporated into their name. Ours was the Aren Cave Hotel and it was by far our favorite of the entire trip.
Unfortunately, there are some downsides caused by the hordes of tourists that come to experience Cappadocia. Mainly the ATV’s. There are hundreds of them for rent. They are getting a bad rap from the locals, for good cause. We personally didn’t experience many as the season is winding down. Still, a horde of ATV’s racing by is the last thing one wants to see in a spectacular and peaceful place like Cappadocia.
There would be an argument that one can’t leave Turkey without seeing the Whirling Dervish Ceremony. On the last night in Goreme we did just that. It is correct to call it a ceremony rather than a dance. There is no question the impetus behind the concept is religious devotion.
How these men sustained the twirling motion without falling on their faces is a miracle. But then I have seen other religious inspired acts that defy human capabilities, like the Thaipusam festival that I witnessed in Indonesia. Serious body piercing with no blood. There is an entire ritual to the Dervish Ceremony that includes music, a type of chanting, respect to the different participants, and then the twirling itself. Though photography was not allowed during the ceremony itself, they did a brief presentation at the end where Cynthia was able to capture a few photos and a video. Pretty impressive I must say. You can view a short video of the Dervishes Whirling here:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/czyyG1vZbpVoHFbf7
Due to a technical problem, you will have to reload the blog after viewing the video.
The Dervishes WhirlingWhen we leave a country I like to give general observations of the country, or countries we have visited. I have to say our overall impression of Turkey is extremely positive. When traveling, and not speaking the language, one doesn’t totally understand the political winds and how they are blowing. I know that Turkey’s leader, Recep Tayyip Erdoğan, is right wing and not terribly popular in the West. But how does that play out in the lives of the Turkish people? Of course I have a limited view, but this is what I have seen. The Turkish people are industrious, out and about, and doing what they want with few restrictions. There was very little police presence. On the highways we never saw what is common in Guatemala, military road blocks. There just wasn’t a feeling of the people being watched or controlled. Virtually no military presence. A few traffic police, but that’s about it.
The infrastructure of the country is excellent. The roads were every bit as good as the States, sometimes better. No trash problems. They keep a clean scene. Safety never seemed to be a worrying factor. The people are out and about and not once did we feel intimidated. It is a culture that likes to be on the streets. It is a Muslim country, the call to prayer is evident several times a day, but I must say I never witnessed people rushing to the mosques. The women were dressed in varied styles. It went from full burkas (rare), to regular western street clothes. Again I want to emphasize that this is from a tourist’s viewpoint. I’m sure I don’t get the full picture, but still, I am totally impressed with Turkey as a country.
To fully enjoy Turkey and what it has to offer, one must be in decent physical shape. There is a lot of walking to be done and places like Cappadocia demand both strength and flexibility. In the States many of the places we visited would be a law suit waiting to happen. The variety in the country is enviable. There is so much to experience and see. From the Roman ruins, to the marvelous Mediterranean, to physical phenomenons one will never see elsewhere. Add to that good food, friendly people, Raki, an amazing history and a safe place to travel, and it is hard to beat.
The trip back to the States was not a piece of cake. It could be more exhausting than any part of the actual travel in Turkey. Nine hour time difference, the dreaded Frankfort airport, the body trying to make sense of it all. We are back in the States, however, and glowing with the memories of the trip. After the dreaded covid it was so good to get back to traveling to unknown places. By the way, the mask thing is done for the most part. Has covid disappeared? No. But for whatever reason people are choosing to get out like they used to. So far so good for Cynthia and I on that front.
Again, thank you for reading the blog and we’ll catch you next time.
