Meandering Through Montenegro

Bay of Kotor
Montenegro

     Oh my God, a border!  As we left Croatia in our rental car we actually came to a border crossing where one had to hand over their passport.  And the line of cars was not short.  An hour later we entered Montenegro for the first time.  Our destination was Kotor, which is at the very end of the Bay of Kotor, a crooked pencil shaped inlet that goes on for miles.  As we drove along the road got narrower with the beautiful inlet on our right and dramatic mountains on our left.  We decided against the ferry and continued through several smaller towns whose focus clearly was on tourism.  As we arrived in Kotor our usual search began for our Airbnb.  The road was so narrow at this point a wrong move would put one in the water.  When we finally found it we were pleased as the view from the front terrace was fabulous and it had all the basic requirements.  

     Kotor is known for its Old City.  Though not new to us at this point we still enjoy the atmosphere, architecture, age, and scene that accompanies the narrow byways.  On our first morning, instead of jumping right into the Old City, we decided to take advantage of our car and drive to the Lovcen National Park.  The park itself didn’t get outstanding reviews but the road trip between Kotor and the Park did.  Our friends Richard and Sylvia had highly recommended Montenegro (which they traversed by motorcycle) and now we could see why.  The road was incredible including the long-haired goats determined to block our way.

Sharing the Highway
Montenegran Long-haired Goats
Road from Kotor to Njegos Mausoleum, Montenegro

     As one went up, up, up traversing the many switchbacks and the one lane road the views just got more astounding.  Looking over the steep drop off, first came the beautiful Bay of Kotor with the backdrop the shear rock mountain side.  When one gets high enough the distant view turns into the endless Adriatic Sea.  Quite the thrill.  I, of course, wanted to pull over at every semi-possible opportunity but Cynthia, being a bit more sane, insisted on waiting for the safest spot.  Plentiful they were not.  

Road from Kotor to Njegos Mausoleum
as indicated on the GPS

     By the time we reached the Njegos Mausoleum, which is the culmination of the Park road, the temperature had dropped and we were partially enshrouded in clouds.  We decided it was time for a break and luckily found a place to park the car.  Not that there were that many people there but again it was a one lane road with nowhere to go and certainly no “assigned parking”.  We looked around, had a great bowl of soup, and marveled at the deciduous trees showing off their fall colors. 

     We took a different route back to Kotor and passed through Cetinje, the former royal capital of Montenegro.  We took a leisurely stroll through the main walkway of the town and the fact that Montenegro is a poor country began to be apparent.  Museums closed, buildings that had once seen glory days were sadly neglected, and it clearly didn’t have that revitalizing shot of tourist dollars to spruce it up.  We enjoyed our peruse of the town but found little reason to return.  Nor did Cynthia find anything worth photographing.

  We are finding this Eastern European trip is not inexpensive.  The Airbnb’s are a great value so we don’t feel we are getting gouged on that front ($45-$75 a night out the door) as a decent hotel is over $100 per the Trip Advisor research I have done (yes, hostels (hostiles) are less).  

One of Our Airbnb's
Prague, Czech Republic

     But the restaurants.  Cynthia and I have been spoiled by India and South East Asia where two people can easily eat out for $10.  And eat well.  Not so in Eastern Europe.  $20 to $50 is standard, usually closer to the higher end of the scale (can’t kick the wine or beer with dinner habit).  Now I realize that in the States this is not a huge amount but when one is doing it every day it certainly adds up.  We are eating one meal out as we always have breakfast “at home” and usually don’t do lunch.  This is a preamble to a situation that I couldn’t imagine happening in many places.  We were short on Euro when we went to the “Relax Restaurant and Bar”.  It was very low key and we were ready to save a bit of money on our meal.  When it came time to pay I handed our waitress a credit card.  “Sorry, cash only.”  We didn’t have it.  I offered the 10 Euro we had and my drivers license and said we would return with the rest.  She just smiled, said don’t worry about it, pay tomorrow.  She didn’t even want the !0 Euro or the drivers license!  The trust did our hearts good.   
     If one goes to Montenegro watch out for the speed traps.  They were plentiful.  And the speed limit is rarely over 60 kph (38 mph).  We were heading to the Ostrog Monastery and suddenly there is a policeman standing in the middle of the road waving a stop sign.  Rats!!  72 in a 60.  I did my polite best and saw not a smile from the cop.  In the end he took pity and off we went, at the agonizingly slow 38 mph!  Well, it all turned out to be worth it.  The drive was beautiful with the colors popping out of the rocks forming the mountain sides.  As mentioned our destination was the Ostrog Monastery, which turned out to be a totally unique place.  

Ostrog Monestary
Montenegro

     It is reminiscent in ways of the monasteries we visited in Spiti, India.  Built in seemingly impossible locations basically glued to the side of a sheer cliff.  As we ascended the mountain by car we saw people walking up the mountain trail carrying their belongings.  What on Earth?  We parked the car in the provided lot, saw that we still had a serious climb ahead of us, and stopped to ask the lot attendant about our the best route back to Kotor.  He spoke virtually no English but motioned that we could still go further up the road even though there was a barrier.  He managed to say the word “old” and we got it.  Seniors were allowed to drive up another 1/2 mile and park nearer the monastery.  So much for our youthful look!  
     Though the monastery itself was impressive it was the scene that got to Cynthia and me.  The faithful took this place seriously.  Families with their children, older people, a scattering of the young were all there.  It was a pilgrimage for many.  They would bring their blankets, food and whatever other essentials they needed and set up camp right on the concrete area in front of the monastery.  Blankets apparently were supplied to the needy free of charge.  Pretty much any place that was sleepable was taken.  

The Pilgrimage
Ostrog Monestary, Montenegro

     I did read that one could rent a dorm room but hundreds were just making it on their own.  No restaurants so bring what you want to eat.  No roof so be prepared for the rain and sun.  It was a captivating scene and Cynthia and I basically hung out and wondered.  The line to get into the monestary itself was long and we decided to take a pass.  To us what was fascinating was outside and the inside could remain a mystery.  

       

St. Luke's Orthodox Church
Old Town Kotor, Montenegro

     The morning we left Kotor for our return to Dubrovnik and our flight to Romania we cruised the Old City of Kotor.  Really enjoyable.  Not crowded, old fort walls that ascend an almost sheer cliff, the classic narrow lanes where the stone paths are made of stones that are as smooth as a baby’s butt.  Hundreds of years of footsteps have done that.  And, oh yes, the cats.  Strange to focus in on that but it was unavoidable.  Cats galore and Cynthia loves them.  We came upon one bench that held no fewer than eight cats all entwined.  

A Passel of Cats
Old Town Kotor, Montenegro

     We saw collection buckets that asked for help in feeding the cats and our conclusion was they needed a bucket to get some cat neutering done!  Still fun to see them all, especially the predominant calicos.     

  We exited our one-night-stand room near the Dubrovnik airport at 4:30 a.m. to make our early flight from Dubrovnik to Bucharest, Romania, our last destination on the trip.  More from the land of Vlad Dracul in our next and final blog.  As always thanks for reading!

Staircase
Old Town Kotor, Montenegro

All photographs copyright by Cynthia Davis, 2018.  All rights reserved.   

Surely Slovenia, Doubtful Dubrovnik

   

Bled Castle
Bled, Slovenia

     Talk about a breath of fresh air.  That was Slovenia.  We had spent the initial part of our trip in big cities.  Charming and alive yes, but busy as cities will be.  We left Budapest sitting in the front seat of the big bus.  The windshield went on forever though at the beginning there wasn’t much to see.  As we thought we were entering Slovenia (within the European union it is hard to tell when one is crossing a border) the topography began to change.  Hills and green forests.  
     

Ljubljana, Slovenia

     As we approached the Slovenian capitol of Ljubljana I immediately had a good feeling about the city.  Few cars, no high rises, a general feeling of calmness.  We had been given directions on how to walk to our apartment from the bus station, so we did.  We soon discovered that the entire “old city” is pedestrian only.  Though the capitol of the country, the city has the feel of a small town.  We spent two days browsing the streets, checking out the mandatory castle, and doing some pleasant window shopping.  

Ljubljanica River
Ljubljana, Slovenia

     As we checked in to our Airbnb I told the host we hoped to rent a car but that my license had been stolen.  I said I had an international license and my passport but wasn’t sure if that was enough.  She immediately said “let me call the agency”.  She did and they indicated no problem with renting the car.  One worry removed.   Slovenia is a small country.  In fact they say on a clear day, from the top of the castle tower, one can see 1/3 of the country!  In the ensuing days we saw a lot of it.  Slovenia is such a treasure.  The Eastern part of the Alps, named the Julian Alps after the man himself, touch the Western border of the country.  If one likes site seeing, lakes, hiking, biking, skiing, motorcycle riding, or just chilling Slovenia has it.  We experienced friendly people who, for the most part, spoke English (lucky us).  

Slovenia Countryside

  One day we just drove.  No particular destination.  Small one lane roads dominated.  We came upon farms hidden away in secluded valleys, a cemetery like we had never seen before (so orderly, flowers at every grave, tucked into the shadow of the small church), and farm animals roaming the roads.  Smiles on our faces the entire time.  We found our way to a well known Slovenian lake, Lake Bohinj. The books say one of the most beautiful lakes in the world (heard that before?).  We thought it was.  On the edge of the lake is a winter ski resort that has a gondola that had been recommended to us.  Up we went.  Fantastic is all I can say.  The view of the lake and the Alps beyond was just incredible.  Again, Cynthia’s photo will have to tell the tale.

Lake Bohinj, Slovenia

  When leaving the Alps we drove drove over a pass where every hairpin turn is numbered.  50 of them.  Reminded us so much of our experience negotiating those corners on motor cycle when we did the Western Alps.  Not for the faint of heart.  At the top of the pass one sees the image of a  “maiden” carved in the rock and a hole in the mountain letting light shine through in such an unlikely place.  Very cool.  

Julian Alps
Slovenia

     The road brought us to the Adriatic Sea, a body of water neither of us had ever seen.  We started our Adriatic adventure in Piran, Slovenia and then moved on to Rovinj, Croatia and then to Dubrovnik, Croatia.  Beautiful?  No doubt.  

Piran, Slovenia

Piran Night Scene, Slovenia

     We started small (Piran) and moved to larger, capped by Dubrovnik.  Our first experience with Croatia was Rovinj.  The scene was lively but certainly not overwhelming.  We explored the charming back streets and discovered our favorite beer (Tomislav) at a seaside bar.  

Back Street
Rohinj, Croatia

     On our final evening we got really lucky.  As we rounded a corner entering the main square we came upon a large group of people all in costume.  What's this we wondered.  It soon became apparent that we had stumbled upon an international folk dancing exhibition featuring dancers from all over Eastern Europe.  We loved it.  From the oldsters to the raucous youngsters.  We stood, clapped with the crowd, and finally just had to sit on the pavement.  

Folk Dancers
Rohinj, Croatia

Folk Dancers
Rohinj, Croatia

     As mentioned earlier we have been rolling with the reality that we are in tourist destinations.  In Dubrovnik I think we hit the wall.  Literally.  It is the walled city and is indeed fascinating (Unesco World Heritage Site). For centuries it kept out the invading forces from the East.  No such luck with the tourists. Oh my God.  Tourist cruise ships with thousands on board make this a destination.  I haven’t seen hordes of people like this since the glory days of the Ann Arbor Art Fair.  In fairness one can escape it by taking the totally obscure back lanes but that only goes so far.  I guess they filmed scenes for Game of Thrones in Dubrovnik and one can even do a tour of those locations.  Excuse me if I take a pass.  

Old City
Dubrovnik, Croatia

     I am a bit negative here only because I was really looking forward to Dubrovnik and we found the seemingly unending crowds make it almost untenable.  On the upside we loved our little apartment.  We came from a one night stand in Pula, Croatia where there is an airport, and stayed in a true dive.  Christ i wish I could still do the hostel scene, but I just can’t.  To me it is truly hostile.  So glad it was only one night.  We didn’t even meet any fun young hippies.  The place was a ghost town.  So when we arrived in Dubrovnik we were thrilled with our digs.   Cynthia claims we are maintaining our “buns of steel” that we have developed in our Paxanax home as our trek home from the Old City was up, up and a bit more up.  Luckily, no problem.  As is usually the case once one gets a bit more familiar with a place everything seems more comfortable.  True with Dubrovnik.  We walked the wall which gave us a great perspective of both the terra-cotta colored town and the sea beyond.  

Terra Cotta Roofs
Old City, Dubrovnik, Croatia

     Found a hide-a-way little bar that has the Adriatic’s pounding waves providing the sound.  The crowds didn’t disappear but we found more secluded spots that weren’t so overrun.  
     One interesting footnote on Dubrovnik.  During Croatia's war of independence in 1991 Dubrovnik's Old City was bombed.  The ensuing outrage from the international community caused a public relations disaster for Serbia and Montenegro who were the perpetrators.  Diplomatic and economic isolation were the result.  

Graffiti on Bombed Out Building
Dubrovnik, Croatia

  Croatia has some 10,000 islands off its coast of which only about 80 are inhabited.  We took a day cruise on a smallish replica merchant ship that took us to 3 of the islands near Dubrovnik.  Maybe 75 people so it was manageable.  We did a lot of walking on the islands, the crew served a very satisfying lunch, the two musicians knew songs from every country imaginable (Take Me Home, Country Roads) and when we returned we were done for the day.  Wouldn’t have missed Dubrovnik but frankly we were ready to move on.  

"Karnaka," our ship for the day
Dubrovnik, Croatia

     Our next adventures will be in Montenegro and Romania.  2/3 done with our trip.  We’ve learned a lot about the history of Eastern Europe, enjoyed their people, been a bit surprised at the prices, liked their cities and loved their varied nature.  One, maybe two more blogs to come.  As always thanks for reading! 

All photographs copyright by Cynthia Davis, 2018.  All rights reserved.   

Vienna, Buda and the Pest 
     

Vienna, Austria
The Old and the New

     Curb appeal is worth a lot.  First impressions are important.  It carries one along with a positive attitude.  Looking forward to what one will find.  As mentioned in a previous blog we have been staying in Airbnb’s the entire trip to this point.  Our Vienna digs had no curb appeal.  Budapest, on the other hand, had it in spades.  When arriving in Vienna via shuttle we were arriving at our first drop off destination and I remember thinking, Jeez, I hope this isn’t our place.  Well, it was.  We had to wait over 1/2 hour next to the garbage cans at the entrance for our host to show.  Not fun.  Then it took 2 days to finally say “well this place isn’t so bad”. 

Franz Liszt Academy of Music

Entrance to our pedestrian walkway

Budapest, Hungary

     In Budapest as we were searching for our apartment we were greeted by a startling array of blooming flower beds.  Then we walked along a tree-lined pedestrian walkway filled with restaurants and sidewalk cafes.  Did we love the apartment?  Immediately.  I would say the same thing applies to our love of the two cities, Vienna and Budapest.  So far I feel somewhat spoiled by Prague.  At least in terms of expectations.  We arrived in Vienna and it didn’t take long to realize that it is a big city with all the trappings.  Traffic big time, the noise that goes along with it, and the all expensive Euro as its currency.  It’s true that Vienna has such a charming ring to its name.  And before I get too ingrained in a negative narration I must say we only spent two full days there.  In short, I liked it but didn’t love it.  We saw some incredible art, attended a performance that we absolutely loved, and saw awe inspiring architecture.  The tourist scene is intense but we rolled with that.  

"Judith"
Gustav Klimt
Belvedere Museum, Vienna, Austria

     Vienna was the home of Gustav Klimt and he is, for good reason, their pride and joy.  Well, he and Mozart.  We wanted to indulge in both of these magnificent artists and we certainly managed to satiate that desire.  We visited both the Leopold and the Belvedere museums as they, in their permanent collections, have the most extensive works by Klimt.  Along the way one learns of the interesting upheaval that was happening in the art scene at the turn of the 20th century.  There was actually a rebellion of sorts that was led by the already famous Klimt.  He and other fellow artists at the time created the Vienna Succession, allowing artists to break away from what they considered the staid past and the control the old guard had over the art scene.  Who was also a member of the succession?  Remember Egon Schiele?  So we were able to indulge ourselves in Klimt and see his most famous painting, The Kiss.  

"The Kiss", detail
Gustav Klimt
Belvedere Museum, Vienna, Austria

     Cynthia had a reproduction of this painting in her room since she was a teenager.  We loved the live painting and the emotion it brought seeing it.  The Belvedere Museum also had a much more extensive collection of the works of Schiele and I came to appreciate him much more.  

"Reclining Woman"
Egon Schiele
Belvedere Museum, Vienna, Austria

     Sunday night we indulged once again.  For Cynthia’s birthday and our anniversary I had sprung for tickets to the Schönbrunn Palace Strauss and Mozart concert.  After having an early dinner at an unassuming Indian restaurant we strolled the grounds of the palace, got lost in the garden maze, gazed at the numerous statues, and generally reflected on the “have and have nots” that was represented by the opulence of the palace.  

Mozart and Strauss Concert
Schönbrunn Palace
Vienna, Austria

     Though divisions in wealth and prestige may not be as extreme as they were in earlier times they certainly do still exist.  On our last day in Vienna we did take a self-styled walking tour and experienced much of the beauty that city holds.  Again, we were in and out of the city quickly and we don’t profess to getting a full immersion.  

Schönbrunn Palace
Vienna, Austria

   
     A very fast and smooth train ride brought us from Vienna to Budapest.  We are getting good at the Metro systems and found our way, via public transport, to our apartment which again we absolutely loved.  Budapest is a city that would take time to get to know, but we definitely left with positive feelings.  Again, it is a big city.  Much of it is upscale.  The people are on the streets, enjoying life in the cafes and bars.  There are many neighborhoods where the streets are pedestrian only, but traffic is a reality.  The city is divided by the Danube River into two distinct sections, Buda and Pest.  

Pest from Buda
Budapest, Hungary

     We spent one full day exploring the castle, cafes and the incredible Matthias church of Buda.  The views of the Danube and Pest are definitely impressive as most of Buda sits high on a hill rising from the river.  One of the purely tourist things we did was take a late afternoon boat cruise on the Danube getting a lesson on the many stunning structures that line the shore.  The perfect past time for soothing the well worn feet.   

Matthias Church
Budapest, Hungary

Matthias Church Interior
Budapest, Hungary

     
     Budapest is known for its night life.  I would love to say that we partied hard in the Ruin Pubs that the city is famous for but that would be a lie.  But even without doing that one can absorb the feeling that a party is on going.  It was still warm (apparently unseasonably so) and the tables of the street-side restaurants, cafes and bars were packed.  And not just with tourists.  The locals seem to love hitting the street and that is where so much of the life is found.  

     On our last day in Budapest we visited the astounding Parliament Building of which all Hungarians are quite proud.  I will let Cynthia’s photo show you why.  

Hungarian Parliament
Budapest, Hungary

     
     Then we visited the House of Terror which was my idea and a bad one.  it was just a bummer both in presentation and content.  One does get some appreciation for the ungodly bad luck of the Hungarians.  First the Nazi’s came and occupied.  And here lies the ultimate irony.  The Russians were the ones who came and liberated Budapest.  At first the population was ecstatic.  But then what?  The liberators proceeded to occupy the country in a very authoritarian fashion for forty years until the break up of the Soviet Union in 1989.  Today it seems the Communists are hated every bit as much as the Nazis.   

St. Stephen's Basillica
Budapest, Hungary

     I did have one bummer experience in Budapest.  We were coming up to the street from the underground and I felt a slight tug on my “man purse”.  I reacted quite quickly but not quickly enough.  My wallet had been stolen from its zippered pouch by an incredibly skilled pick pocket.  It Immediately bummed me right out.  One the loss of the wallet, two that I let it happen.  Luckily theIr take was relatively minimal.  About $40 US (10,000 Hungarian HUFs) and my driver’s license.  No credit card, no passport.  Still, it took me some time to come to peace with it.  The driver’s license may complicate renting cars but we will just have to find a way around that.  What they didn’t get is much more important than what they did get.  On my travels over these many years I have been hit by 3 professional pick pockets.  Guatemala City, Buenos Aires, and Budapest.  One on them was successful.  May a pox invade their sacred sack!!!

St. Stephen's Basillica
Budapest, Hungary

     
     Our next destination will be Slovenia.  Best known to my fellow Americans as the home country of our first lady, Melania Trump.  We are looking forward to a quieter scene and hopefully renting a car in order to explore the countryside.  Both Cynthia and I are extremely upbeat, having a very satisfying experience, and eager to see what happens next.  Again, thank you for interest in the blog and we will report in again from Croatia.     

All photographs copyright by Cynthia Davis, 2018.  All rights reserved. 

Cesky Krumlov

Streets of Cesky Krumlov
Czech Republic

     One walks along the narrow streets of Cesky Krumlov and it is not hard to imagine time tripping back to the 15th century.  The almost lane-size streets mean practically no cars.  The stone structure of the streets seem to be a reflection of their age.  The castle within view from many parts of the village has not changed, at least externally, since it was refurbished in the 16th century.   The castle actually dates from the 13th century.  

Cesky Krumlov Castle
Cesky Krumlov, Czech Republic

     
     The village, simply put, has extraordinary charm.  From the flowing Vltava river to the dominant terracotta roofs it is easy to see why it has been designated a UNESCO Word Heritage Site. There are tourists.  In fact I had to ask one particularly gregarious restaurant owner if there was a vital local community among the vast number of visitors.  He assured us there was. 

Terracotta Roofs and the Vltata River
Cesky Krumlov, Czech Republic

    
     Speaking of tourists, I have come to the point where I can embrace being one.  I always remember the the NYC adage.  “Don’t look up because they will know you are a tourist.”  So what?  By definition if one ventures outside their home territory they are a tourist.  Call it what you want (traveler, adventurer, visitor, globe trotter, tripper) you are still a tourist.  And be thankful you are one because venturing far from ones home can be one of the magical parts of life.   By definition if a place is beautiful, historical, different or “hip”, it is going to attract visitors.  That’s the law of the planet.  So if one would like to see those places then expect others.  The Asians are certainly getting out and about.  Fully 80% of the tourists in Cesky were Asian, the majority being Chinese.  Yes, there can be “too many tourists” but I am learning to see not the tourists but what I came to see in the first place!

  Oh yes, Cesky.  We stayed in a place above a “French Country” store. (Cynthia calls it shabby chic.)  The name of it was the “Never Ending Store” (they stole that from Dylan) and I can’t help but call it the “never ending locks”.  When the store is closed we had to go through no less than four locks to get into our apartment.  Cynthia has been the dedicated key person so she got it, but the first time was ridiculous.  

  Yes, in Cesky there is a castle and this one dominates for sure.  We took the tour and thoroughly enjoyed it.  So many interesting and beautiful things to look at.  We were also thrown quite the curve.  As we were wandering through a passage way there was a sign indicating an exhibit down in the catacombs of the castle.  What could that be about?  Down we went and were totally blown away by what we saw. 

The Czech-Krumlov Surreality
Exhibition of works by Miroslav Páral
Cesky Krumlov, Czech Republic

     There among the subterranean depths of the castle was the works of Miroslav Páral.  A true outsider this man.  His work was bizarre to say the least.  Erotic at times, a hint of humor, and all overlaid with a touch of the grotesque.  Combining his work with the setting was brilliant.  Hopefully Cynthia’s photos will give you some impression of what I write.  

Works by Miroslav Páral
Cesky Krumlov, Czech Republic

  Cynthia and I seem to be drawn to art galleries.  We didn’t only see the work of Páral but also Egon Schiele (1890-1918).  I must admit I had never heard of him but Cynthia remembered him from art school.  Klimt was his idol and mentor but he broke away with his own style, albeit again with a nod to the bizarre.  He apparently lived in Cesky for one year but was unceremoniously asked to leave as the town did not like his use of nude women models, some reportedly under age.  Nonetheless it is amazing what one can accomplish in such a short life.  

Drawing by Egon Schiele
Egon Schiele Gallery
Cesky Krumlov, Czech Republic     

    
     He and his wife died so young in the flu epidemic of 1918 that took some 50 million people.  Along with Schiele’s work there was an exhibition in his self-named gallery entitled “View of Women” which included the works of three women artists whose work was “compatible” with that of Schiele.  Knowing very little when we walked in we left several hours later totally enthralled.  

Exhibition of Works by artist "ToyBox"
Egon Schiele Gallary
Cesky Krumlov, Czech Republic

     Just wandering the streets of Cesky is what this town is about.  As we were winding up our day, strolling down some back street all by ourselves, the sound of music came wafting down the lane.  “Is that live music” I asked Cynthia?  We followed the sound and indeed it was.  A big band was set up on the main square playing their hearts out.  Everything from Miles Davis to Glen Miller.  As the audience got in the rhythm several of the “tourists” began to dance.  Everyone was in a good mood and the musical interlude couldn’t have been more welcome.

Big Band
Cesky Krumlov, Czech Republic

   
     We have now arrived in Vienna.   We came by shuttle and the first 2/3 was farms and forests.  The road was so narrow we had to pull over when another vehicle was approaching.  We passed through several small villages that gave us a good insight into rural Czech Republic.  Loved it.   
     Vienna will be a bit of a whirlwind as we are venturing out of our Eastern European focus and chose not to spend much time here.  As is often the case our landing was a bit rough but seems to be smoothing out already.  There is so much to see and appreciate in Vienna, but we won't experience it all.  Much of the city we will have to save for next time.  Budapest awaits and our next blog should emanate from the star of Hungary.      

Night Stroll
Cesky Krumlov, Czech Republic

All photographs copyright by Cynthia Davis, 2018.  All rights reserved. 

Loving Prague!

Prague Skyline

     We are nearing the end of the first chapter in this adventure.  What we have experienced so far is a love affair with Prague.  What a city.  Architecturally beautiful with few exceptions, clean beyond belief, a mass transit system that is efficient as it can be resulting in very little auto traffic, and people who seem warm despite the language difference.  Did I mention the beer?  You have heard the phrase “beer is cheaper than water”?  Well, here it is true.  And all kinds, from micro-brewed to bottles found, it seems, in every other store.  

     I can’t call the journey from Guatemala fun, but it wasn’t bad either.  We sprung for Economy Plus on the leg from Houston to Frankfurt and had no regrets about doing it.  The flight was about 10 hours and when one lands they are well into the next day, so be awake!!!  A bit of Benadryl did the trick and we both got in at least 6 hours.  The efficient Germans seemed to have missed the mark a bit at the Frankfurt airport as the walks were marathon size, the stairs did not move, and the bus ride to the tarmac was jammed.  By the time we made the short flight to Prague all that was forgotten.

     We are doing a lot of Airbnb’s on this trip and the first one is a total hit.  Not huge but really modern and comfortable.  And Well Located.  We can walk just about everywhere in the city and walk we have.  You have heard of the required 10,000 steps a day (which I honestly believe should be 5,000)?  Well, we have logged an average of about 15,500 since we got here.  If one divides the number of beers we have drank into that number, I would say we deserved every drop.   

Hoisting a Pivo (Beer)

     So far our days have included synagogues, castles, museums, a couple of incredible churches, and a bevy of bars.  All worth the time in a variety of ways.  The story of the Jews in Prague is a complex one.  The story spans a 2,000 year history and in many ways capsulizes their incredible journey.  

The Spanish Synagogue
Prague, Czech Republic

     Without doubt the occurrence of the Nazi invasion of 1938 was catastrophic and one synagogue has, in small print, several rooms where every wall displays the names of the individuals disappeared in the holocaust.  Though I am certainly not making a comparison, in theme it did remind me of the Catholic church I visited in a small Guatemalan Mayan village in the Ixil Triangle where the names of 1/3 of the villages population appear as a tribute to those disappeared.  Have we learned?  I certainly hope so.  

77,297 Names
Pinkas Synagogue
Prague, Czech Republic

     The museums we have visited have been fascinating for totally different reasons.  The Prague City Museum gives an absolute exhaustive look at the history of Prague going back to Cro-Magnon man.  It gives me such pause to once again come face to face with the reality of how young my home country is.  While life was being played out in so many complexities here in Prague, the American Indian was living with nature in the U.S.  

Manifesto Market
Prague, Czech Republic

     After enjoying a beer and some sweet potato fries at the newish “hip” Manifesto Market, we found our way to the Alphonse Mucha Museum.  Here is an artist that clearly loved women and brought such life to the feminine allure.  He established himself by doing posters for famous people and events including the actress Sarah Bernhardt.  This allowed him to become known and wealthy, thus releasing him to create what he really wanted in his later years (The Slav Epic).  Hey, as an artist one does what ever it takes to make it work.  

Works by Alphonse Mucha
Mucha Museum
Prague, Czech Republic

     
     We did escape to the country in order to visit the Karlstejn Castle.  Though the castle was certainly worth seeing I think the incredibly smooth train ride through the beautiful countryside was one of our favorite parts of the day.  First off one has to figure out how the hell to buy a ticket and what platform the train is leaving from.  That took about 45 minutes of frustration, wrong turns, and some anxiety.  The ultimate way to figure it out is to ask.  However, one has to ask a person who speaks English and knows the answer.  Pretty tough to tell whom that person is.   We eventually figured it out and off we went.  

Karlstejn Castle
Karlstejn, Czech Republic

     The castle was not spectacular, but it was the experience we were looking for at the time.  The views from the top turrets of the surrounding country were magnificent.  A small village nestled amount the hills of greenery.  And of course, as with most castles, it held the high ground. 

View from Karlstejn Castle
Karlstejn, Czech Republic

  The pride and joy of Prague is the Prague Castle, and I must say for good reason.  Included in its vast grounds is the St Vitus Cathedral, undoubtedly one of the most outstanding structures I have ever seen.  It was shocking to walk through an archway and be totally astounded by the overall power of the cathedral.  

St Vitus Cathedral
Prague Castle
Prague, Czech Republic

     Words fall short.  600 years in the making.  I have never been a deeply religious person, in fact as I look back in history I know religion has been the cause of literally hundreds (thousands?) of wars continuing right up to this day.  But when religion is at its strongest it can be a cradle of creation.  And I mean artistically.  Yes, many of the themes have religious overtones but the artists were clearly inspired, the church able and willing to pay, and the result is something for the ages.  What single effort goes on for 600 years?  That’s roughly 24 generations.  Astounding.  The Cathedral had treasures ranging from the crypt of Charles IV to Art Nouveau stained glass windows by Mucha.  Though many more sites delight at the Castle, Cynthia and I could go back to the cathedral and just spend the day being mesmerized by the wonder.

St Vitus Cathedral
Prague Castle
Prague, Czech Republic

   
     Of course as is always the case just as one feels comfortable, knows their way around, and could just settle in for a while it is time to move on.  Tomorrow we take a 3 hour bus ride to a small town in the Czech Republic.  We will treasure our time in Prague, both of us being surprised and elated by this wonderful city.  We would return in a heart beat.  

All photographs copyright by Cynthia Davis, 2018.  All rights reserved. 

Hello Friends      Cynthia and I are preparing for our next Great Adventure.  On September 5 we fly from Guatemala City arriving in Prague, Czech Republic on the 6th.  Thus will begin our 6 week journey through Eastern Europe.  Czech Republic, Vienna, Hungary, Slovenia, Croatia, Montenegro, and Dracula's home turf of Romania.  These are all new destinations for us and we approach them with excitement.  As in our last blog from Northern India Cynthia will do the photography and I will ply one of my favorite past times, writing.  If you receive this cordial invitation to join us in our adventures you will receive the blog via your email.  We promise not to make the posts too long and will try to capture the treasures, both obvious and hidden, of each destination.  We do love doing the blog, it capsulizes and enhances our experience, and you joining us in our adventure makes it all the
richer.  See you on the road.        JB and Cynthia

Disorganized Organization